Five Ways To Slash Your Cellphone Bill

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Let’s face it: Times are tough and you’re not likely to qualify for a multi-billion-dollar bailout. You’ve probably already cut back on shopping, eating out, movies and junk gadgets.

Still not saving enough money? Take a second look at your cellphone. The average cellphone user ends up spending $600 a year on wireless phone service, which means there’s plenty of room in there for some scrimping. While there may be some crazy texters and manic talkers around, it is likely most of us use much less than what we paid for.

Here are five ways to slash your cellphone bills and save more of that scarce moolah:

Unlimited isn’t always good
News flash: Cellphone companies don’t really care about you as a person. What they really care about is ARPU, or "average revenue per user," and how to make it bigger. That means finding clever ways of getting customers to sign up for larger monthly contracts. While Sprint, Verizon or AT&T’s unlimited voice and texting package for $99 a month may seem great, it is likely you will use less than half of what you paid for. How much are you really texting? What about voice calls? Do you yap that much? Sure, if you run over your usage it can be expensive but a lot of us don’t.

As a first step analyze your cellphone usage by looking at the past few months’ statements. Find out how many minutes you really use and then match your plan to that. Or try Billshrink, a new website that claims to help you find the most optimal plan. Instead of the $40 plan go for the $20 plan if that’s all you really need. Less is more.

Go prepaid
Service providers like long-term contracts because they lock you in as a customer for two years. While contracts are often the only way to get the best phones, they can get pretty expensive. For example, $200 for a phone and $60 a month on contract adds up to $1,640 over two years.

Check out prepaid phones that you can buy for just about $15 and use with a prepaid card. If you are not a power user this could really help cut your bills down. Some service providers even offer rollover minutes on their prepaid plans, with the condition that you top up to a minimum every month.

Prepaid plans work well for cell phones users who talk 200 minutes or less a month, says the Telecommunications Research & Action Center, a non-profit organization. And if you have more than once cell phone in the family, try substituting one pre-paid cell phone for at least one post-paid cell phone, they suggest.

Cut out the bells and whistles
Do you really need that data plan? Take another look at your phone, too. It’s nice to have the latest phones but you can save money if you are willing to give up on having the current talk of the town. Cut out downloads of ringtones, games and other online services that your service provider may be doing a hard sell on. Cut! Cut! Cut! Tough times call for tough measures.

Don’t cut the cord just yet
About 16 percent of Americans have only cellphones and no landlines. That means for the other 84 percent, it is time to take another look at the black box sitting at your house or work.

When at home use your landline phone instead of burning up minutes on your cellphone. Instead of calling friends and family during your commute, head home and use your land line. Long distance calling? Don’t touch that cellphone!

Buy online
Websites of most service providers offer an extensive range of phones that often come free with a one-year contract. Some of those phones could cost about $50 in-store with a contract or even more. If you really want your latest phones try sites such as Wirefly or Amazon.com for some good deals. In-store isn’t always the best.

Photo: (Milica Sekulick/Flickr)

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Kindle 2.0 to Hit Stores Early 2009

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Amazon has slated the next version of its popular Kindle reader for the first quarter of 2009.

The second Kindle, which will be longer, thinner and more ergonomically friendly than its predecessor, is tentatively scheduled to go on sale "early next quarter," sources told TechCrunch.

Shortly after releasing Kindle 2.0, Amazon will push out a student version of the reader with a larger screen — more suitable for displaying textbooks. The student version will hit stores sometime in the first half of 2009.

Previously, speculators predicted an October 2008 release of Kindle 2.0, but Amazon quickly dispelled such rumors. It’s understandable why Amazon is taking its time and being careful with the new Kindle: The reader is the company’s first attempt at a hardware device. However, many other companies have similar products in the works that could steal the Kindle’s thunder. For example, Plastic Logic is working on a touchscreen reader that already looks more promising — and it’s due first half of 2009. Also, some are already arguing that consumers are preferring the iPhone as a book reader over the Kindle.


Amazon Kindle 2 Slated For "Early Q1"
[TechCrunch]

Photo credit: troyh/Flickr

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Gadget Lab Podcast #55: Black Friday TV Deals Come Early

Gadget Lab Podcast logo

In this week’s Wired Gadget Lab Audio Podcast, Daniel Dumas, Brian Chen, and I talk about how the economic recession is forcing retailers to jump start their Black Friday deals on televisions and why this is mainly a good thing for consumers. We also go over the reason why people shouldn’t worry about losing out on even bigger deals down the road if they buy a TV this week.

In addition, we discuss the dirty trick that Apple is currently pulling with their new MacBooks. Mainly, they secretly slipped in some copyright protection that prevents people from fully enjoying the use of their port the way it was meant to be used – to push iTunes movies into giant screens.

Finally, we go over the new features from the latest iPhone firmware update, and review the new BlackBerry Storm. So what’s our verdict on the latest wannabe iPhone-killer? Tune in to find out.

Thank you for listening to the podcast. Please remember, if the embedded player above doesn’t work, you can download the Gadget Lab podcast MP3 file.

Use iTunes? Subscribe to the Gadget Lab Audio Podcast in iTunes.

Like this podcast? Check out the Gadget Lab Video Podcast. It’s got hands-on video reviews of the latest hot products and gadgets from the world of consumer electronics and beyond.

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Able Planet’s new gaming headphones

Able Planet, known for developing headphones for those with mild to severe hearing loss, recently unveiled a new high-fidelity multimedia headset for PC gamers–the PS500MM.

Able Planet’s chairman and CEO, Kevin Semcken, said:

The NC500TF is pictured here; there are no available images for the PS500MM.

(Credit: digitalfotoclub)

“We

Apple’s Black Friday deals

(Credit: Apple)

Update: The promotion is now live on the U.S. Apple Store site.

Apple will be holding a one-day shopping event on Black Friday, according to a teaser up on Apple’s Web site. Every sale on the Apple Store is an event, as it happens very rarely, …

Amazon’s Kindle 2 now slated for early next year?

The Kindle 2 is now rumored to arrive early next year.

(Credit: Boy Genius Report)

Last month Boy Genius Report got its hands on some photos of what appeared to be the Kindle 2, so speculation was rampant that Amazon would release a new Kindle for the holidays. However, Amazon …

Alaskan Chainsaw Mill

To cut your own boards from a felled tree, you need either an expensive bandsaw mill, circular saw or a bad-ass chainsaw and a bracket to hold the chainsaw parallel to some reference surface. The Alaskan mill attaches to the saw’s chain bar and keeps the chainsaw in line with a flat surface, allowing you to cut slabs as thin as 1/2 inch thick. The Alaskan is easy to set up. There is really only one way the saw can fit into the mill. Then, you adjust the two posts on either end to the desired clearance (make sure both posts read the same distance). To make sure your first cut is straight, you use a slabbing bracket; I used the aluminum slabbing rails made by Granberg. Then, you just adjust the clearance to the width of your slab and use the surface of the previous cut to guide the next cut, and the next, and so forth.

After moving into a new house in a wooded area, I realized a dead, 100-foot Red Oak was just 50 feet from the house. Following a few spells of high winds, I knew it was just a matter of time before it might give out, so I hired a local arborist who methodically cut off the upper part of the tree (a 20-ft. section), then worked his way down, cutting more of the tree into 8-ft sections. We had a nice surprise when we finished: the wood looked to be in great shape and seemed like it might make nice flooring. But I soon discovered the professional sawmills near us won’t touch a log less than 9 feet long. Instead of hiring someone with a sawmill to come to my property, I decided to get my own rig.

There are three different kinds of sawmills: circular saw, bandsaw, and chainsaw. I looked at the Lucas Swing blade, several different bandsaw mills and other chainsaw mills. If you have plenty of space and lots of money, Timberking makes some good mills. Most bandsaw mills and circular saws are portable in the sense you can hook them up to your pickup truck and tow them to the site, but they are not portable in the sense you can pick them up and haul them down the hill and through the woods. My number one consideration for the mill was that I should be able to take the saw to the log since I didn’t think I could take the log to the saw. One thing to consider about a chainsaw mill is that it wastes a lot of wood. If you’re going to build a fixed installation, a bandsaw or circular saw is the way to go. As I’ve learned, though, Red Oak is *heavy*, especially when it is wet. Getting the log to the rig wasn’t an option, so I went with a chainsaw mill. I chose the Husqvarna 385XP saw with a 28-inch bar, along with a 30-inch Alaskan mill. That means the mill can be adjusted to fit any bar up to its maximum size, in this case 30 inches. You can install basically any size bar into a chainsaw. I chose 28 inches since it would be big enough to work with any of my logs (my largest log was about 20 inches in diameter).

What’s impressed me about the Alaskan mill is its simplicity, sturdiness and the geometry of the bracket. The bracket on the mill allows the user to keep the mill flat against the log. With other mills, like the more expensive Logosol system for instance, you attach a bracket to either end of the log and use it to index down through the log. This is probably a better system for indexing, but seems like a lot more work; plus the Logosol also supports the chainsaw only from one end. The Alaskan bracket provides support at both ends of the bar, and it comes in a size as short as 24 inches and as big as 56 inches. Granberg also makes a kit with a bar to allow you to attach *two* 385 power heads to the saw. They also offer an oiler kit to increase the amount of oil on the chain, and they manufacture special ripping chains that make cleaner cuts (I used one). I read one guy’s review where he said you needed three sharp chains before starting a days worth of cutting. Maybe that’s about right; I could never last more that one sharp chain worth of work before petering out. Some reviewers have mentioned the effort that goes into sharpening the chains makes a chainsaw mill unacceptable. I didn’t really find it to be onerous. Since the Alaskan mill is basically the same size as the saw, storage isn’t an issue. I just leave the saw mounted in the mill. (NOTE: I learned the hard way, that it is important to store the saw upright. When I stored the saw on its side one time, the next time I used the saw, it took me about 5 hours to get the saw started.)

A few things to remember about chainsaw mills: This is hard work and the going is slow. On my best day, I only managed to finish two logs. Had I been cutting 1- inch boards (instead of 2-inch ones), this would have been much slower. Admittedly, though, my wood was Oak; maybe, just maybe, pine is easier. Also, the saw vibrates a lot. I exchanged my saw’s plastic handle for a foam grip, which helped some. Lastly, while the Alaskan rig makes the saw safer, you can never forget there is a lethal weapon in your hands. Although I’ve given up on the flooring idea, I still have all this good lumber which I’ll certainly use for a woodworking project.

— Jack Tomlinson

alaskan-chainsaw-mill-2-sm.jpg

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$200
(24-inch)
Available from Amazon

Sizes 30-48-inch also available from Lee Valley

Manufactured by Granberg

Related Entries:
Stihl Chainsaw 280

Festool Domino Joiner

The Woodbook

How To Make a Scanner Camera


Scannercam23

Last week, we told you about the home-made scanner camera featured at Make magazine. Three weeks ago, we kicked up a bit of controversy when we told you to throw away your old scanner. Today, we take our own advice and, with the help of a sharp knife and a roll of gaffer tape, turn an old Canonscan LiDE 50 into a working camera.

Scannercam

First, the kit. We have an old, USB bus-powered scanner, three packs of black A4 foam-core board (with three sheets in each pack), a magnifying glass and a roll of gaffer tape. The shoebox is just there to keep things tidy. I also used a craft knife and an old aluminum baking sheet as a straight edge for cutting.

Scannercam3

Remove the lid from the scanner. You don’t have to, but when you come to take pictures, the lid makes things a little unwieldy. This model has a pop-off top so it will be easy to put back on when the project is over.

Scannercam5

Next, measure and cut the boards. I chose the slightly more expensive A4 sheets over the bigger sizes. This means less cutting, and as the scanner is made for A4 pages, it fits rather well. I used one of the other sheets as a guide to draw a line across this one, giving me a square. Repeat for three more sheets.

Scannercam7

Here we have the sides of the first, inner box. There will be two boxes, one inside the other, to allow the lens to be moved in relation to the scanner bed. This will enable focusing. Here’s the first box:

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Next, place another sheet  next to the box as in the picture below and mark a line for cutting. Transfer this line onto three more sheets.

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Eagle-eyed readers will have noticed the first mistake. The outside sheets need to be the same size as the inner ones, plus the thickness of two sheets. I only added the thickness of one sheet, so my outer box doesn’t quite meet at the corners. Gaffer tape, though, is very forgiving, and quickly fixes things up.

Scannercam12

Scannercam14

Here we see the outer and inner boxes, complete with the lid for the
outer box. Next, we need a hole for the lens, which has now been freed
from the prison of its handle and frame by some judicious bending and
snapping.

Scannercam18

Scannercam19

Scannercam21

Almost there. A quick bit of tape around the lens will stop it from falling out, and then the lens board needs to be fixed to the boxes. Make sure all joints are well sealed against light.

Scannercam24

That’s it! A few extra pieces of card are taped around the edges to block light from entering the scanner. You could, as the Make article suggests, use a thick baseboard to make moving the camera on and off the scanner a little easier. I just went at it with lovely, lovely gaffer tape. In fact, this is where I messed up for the second time — I taped the outer box down, meaning that it couldn’t slide. This was fixed with a few slashes and yet more tape.

Next, on to the picture taking.

Scannercam25

The scanner software is already installed, so I just opened up Image Capture on my MacBook Pro and connected the USB cable. It lives! As the motor whirred into life, I waited for the blurry image of my lazy flatmate to appear on the screen. The scanner finished its first pass and a picture appeared. I was expecting to have to make a few adjustments, but didn’t quite expect this:

Scannerfail

That, if you can believe is, is not an ultrasound scan of an unborn babe, but my flatmate stuck in front of the living room Mac, watching yoga videos on YouTube and generally not getting a job. If you look carefully you can just make out the… Who are we kidding? It’s junk. I tried pointing the camera out the window in the hope of grabbing more light. I also made a smaller aperture out of black card, in order to cut out some of the sunlight and also increase the depth of field.

How did it turn out? Much the same as the picture above. I brought the camera back in and pointed it at my flatmate’s drum kit (the sound of which helps me to concentrate when blogging). I tried moving the lens in and out to get a sharp picture. Here’s the result (The snare is on the left):

Drumkit

Clearly I need to do some more experimentation, but the theory is sound, and it looks much like the camera in the Makezine article. It’s possible that the magnifying glass I chose is just plain wrong for this sized box, so I’ll try another one of those. I’ll be taking this outside over the holiday weekend (the bus-powered scanner means I don’t need a power cable) and I’ll post any pictures that actually work.

In the meantime, it’s your turn. This only took around an hour, including a cigarette break, so go try it. If you have any succees, post the pictures to the Gadget Lab Flickr Group. See you there.

This article is also featured on the Wired How-To Wiki, where you can edit and add to it.

Make a Scanner Camera [Wired How-To Wiki]

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Verizon Wireless snags Samsung Omnia

Samsung Omnia(Credit: James Martin/CBS Interactive)

Well, Verizon Wireless is certainly kicking off the holiday season with a bang. In just the past couple of weeks, we’ve seen the release of the RIM BlackBerry Storm, the Samsung Saga, the HTC Touch Pro, and now, the Samsung Omnia.

The Samsung Omnia …

Astronaut Invents Amazing Space-Cup

Astronaut Don Pettit has hacked together a MacGuyver-esque coffee cup which works in space. Normally, the lack of gravity means that zero-g sipping has to be done through a straw. Think about it —  when we tip up our cups here on Earth, the liquid inside stays put and the cup effectively moves out of the way allowing the drink to drop into our waiting mouths. That doesn’t happen in weightlessness, hence the tubes.

This is fine for soda, but a grown up cup of espresso should be supped, not sucked. Pettit’s design is remarkably simple. He took a plastic sheet and fashioned it into a cup shape. The key difference is the fold running up one edge, a crease which allows the coffee to climb the side of the cup by capillary action.

Check the video of the hack in action. And watch out — there’s math in there.

How to Drink Coffee In Space — Without a Straw [The RAW Feed]

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