HUFFPOST HILL – Trump Weighs In On Cincinnati Gorilla, Silent On Baby Hitler

Until today, we assumed the only giant primates that Donald Trump cared about were ones that do facade damage to New York landmarks while kidnapping blondes. Trump said he’s spent $5.6 million on veterans, which is roughly the amount he’s spent on ersatz marble fountains depicting little boys peeing. And during her first press conference in months, Hillary Clinton accepted blame for both the gorilla’s death AND Vince Foster’s — you can read more about it, and all the other things that happened only in our imagination, this week on HuffingtonBlurpDeBurp.Biz. This is HUFFPOST HILL for Tuesday, May 31st, 2016:

CLINTON CAMPAIGN CAN’T ANSWER SIMPLE QUESTION ABOUT KILLING A GUY – Sam Stein: “For nearly a week now, Hillary Clinton’s presidential campaign has refused to answer a simple yes or no question: whether she favors the Department of Justice’s decision to seek the death penalty for Dylann Roof, who is accused of killing nine people last year at a historically black church in Charleston, South Carolina. The Huffington Post first posed the question to Clinton’s campaign on May 25, one day after the Justice Department made its announcement. We followed up twice that day, and once the day after. We tried again this Sunday and Monday. The campaign only responded to one of those emails, and did so off the record — but needless to say, it didn’t answer the question.” [HuffPost]

TED CRUZ WANTS TO BE FRIENDS NOW – Katie Glueck & Burgess Everett: “Ted Cruz’s associates insist he’s returning to the Senate as the same uncompromising, hell-bent conservative he’s always been. But one thing is different, and it’s glaring: The senator who made enemies with fellow Republican senators and bragged about it to voters now wants to play nice — or at least his version of nice — with his colleagues. And the first step to improving his rancorous relationships, the Texas senator’s allies say, will be to help them keep their Senate seats. The freshman senator wants to return to the campaign trail this fall as a conservative surrogate for Republicans aiming to turn out the GOP base, they say.” [Politico]

GARY JOHNSON IS GOOD AT RUNNING – Marathons, that is. “I ran a 2:48 marathon and they don’t even report on it!” the newly-minted Libertarian Party nominee told the Candidate Confessional podcast. [HuffPost]

jbarro: People aren’t properly analyzing the tail risks associated with Trump, so I made a chart.


TRUMP PIVOTS TO GORILLA – Ashley Killough: “Donald Trump said Tuesday that a Cincinnati zoo ‘probably had no choice’ but to kill a gorilla after a young boy had entered his enclosure. ‘It was a very tough call,’ the presumptive Republican nominee said at a press conference at Trump Tower in New York when he was asked about the controversy. Trump said the gorilla appeared ‘beautiful’ and ‘calm,’ and almost mother-like with a toddler that came into his habitat. A 3-year-old boy slipped into the enclosure of a 17-year-old male gorilla named Harambe, who quickly took hold of the child. At times, the gorilla sat still with the toddler, but those quiet periods were interrupted by bouts of knocking the child against a wall and dragging him around a shallow moat.” [CNN]

GREAT LEADER ENDORSES CLASSY LEADER – It’s almost like they want to see us destabilized. Charlotte Alfred: “An editorial in North Korea’s state-run media on Tuesday offered high praise for presumptive U.S. Republican presidential nominee Donald Trump. Trump is a ‘wise politician’ and ‘far-sighted presidential candidate,’ the Korean-language article in DPRK Today argues. The editorial, attributed to Chinese North Korean scholar Han Yong-mook, is not official government policy. Yet it likely reflects the authoritarian regime’s thinking, experts told NK News. ‘There are many positive aspects to Trump’s ‘inflammatory policies,’’ the article says, listing two in particular: Trump’s offer to meet with North Korean leader Kim Jong Un, and his threat to remove U.S. forces from South Korea, which is still technically at war with the North.”” [HuffPost]

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MITCH MCCONNELL IS SURE TRUMP WILL TOTALLY CHANGE HIS BEHAVIOR – Donald Trump would respect limits on his authority if he’s elected president, Senate Majority Leader Mitch McConnell (R-Ky.) said Monday. ‘I think Donald Trump will understand when he’s sworn in the limits of his authority,’ McConnell told conservative radio interviewer Hugh Hewitt. ‘He’ll have a White House counsel. There will be others who point out there’s certain things you can do and you can’t do.’ Trump has openly campaigned against freedom of the press and freedom of religion, two things enshrined in the First Amendment to the U.S. Constitution. He has also vowed to disregard international law and commit war crimes. And he likes to threaten his political opponents. McConnell said President Barack Obama has been worse, pointing to Obama’s executive orders on immigration that have been held up by courts…. Orders that Trump has said “led the way” and that he would do them, but better…. [HuffPost]

TRUMP REMINDS EVERYONE ABOUT HOW MUCH HE HATES POWs – Christina Wilkie: “Presumptive Republican presidential nominee Donald Trump on Tuesday defended his fundraising for veterans charities and said he had not inflated reports of how much money he had donated to military organizations. ‘As of this moment, it’s $5.6 million,’ Trump told reporters at a press conference at Trump Tower in New York City. ‘The money has all been sent,’ Trump said, holding up a copy of a $1 million check he said had been a donation to a Marine Corps charity. The Donald J. Trump Foundation hasn’t used any of the money raised to pay staff or cover operational expenses, he added. Trump also named several charities — including the Fisher House Foundation, the Marine Corps-Law Enforcement Foundation and the Navy SEAL Foundation — he said had received money.” [HuffPost]

WHAT MADE TRUMP SOOO GENEROUS? Only shame: “Phone calls to all 41 of the groups by The Associated Press brought more than two-dozen responses Tuesday. About half reported checks from Trump within the past week, typically dated May 24, the day The Washington Post published a story questioning whether he had distributed all of the money.” [AP]

DONALD TRUMP HAS NO MONEY – Ben White: “Donald Trump claims a net worth of more than $10 billion and an income of $557 million. But he appears to get there only by overvaluing properties and ignoring his expenses. POLITICO spoke with more than a dozen financial experts and Trump’s fellow multimillionaires about the presumptive Republican nominee’s latest financial statement. Their conclusion: The real estate magnate’s bottom line — what he actually puts in his own pocket — could be much lower than he suggests. Some financial analysts said this, and a very low tax rate, is why Trump won’t release his tax returns. ‘I know Donald; I’ve known him a long time, and it gets under his skin if you start writing about the reasons he won’t disclose his returns,’ said one prominent hedge fund manager who declined to be identified by name so as not to draw Trump’s ire. ‘You would see that he doesn’t have the money that he claims to have and he’s not paying much of anything in taxes.'” [Politico]

DONALD TRUMP HAS NO POSITIONS – And neither do his supporters. Ariel Edwards-Levy: “Want to get people to support a policy they’d otherwise be lukewarm about? Tell them it’s backed by the candidate or party they like. It’s a human tendency that can lead to some especially interesting results when a party’s standard-bearer is as malleable on the issues as Donald Trump has proved to be…. Those who were told that Trump ‘has said he’d like to see the minimum wage increased’ agreed with him by a margin of 57 percent to 36 percent. Those who were told that he ‘has said he would not raise the minimum wage’ were notably more likely to express their own opposition to a wage hike, by a margin of 43 percent to 52 percent.” [HuffPost]

POLITICAL HACKERY AT ITS BEST! John Feehery: “I am not of the opinion that the Republic would fail if the voters select somebody like Trump and if Trump turns out the half as bad as some conservative pundits would have you believe, there are plenty of legal mechanisms to either contain his worse impulses (the Congress and the Supreme Court, for example) or remove him from office should his transgressions become too toxic.” Yeah, there’s always impeachment! Phew. [TheFeeheryTheory]

WOMP WOMP – Michael Gerson has a sad: “For those of us with a certain political bent and background, this is the most depressing moment of all. The best of the GOP — Marco Rubio and Paul Ryan, the intellectually serious reformicons who have called attention to issues of poverty and the need for Republican outreach — are bending their knee to the worst nominee in their party’s history. Ryan drags himself slowly. Rubio eventually went with a quick Band-Aid pull. But the largest political choice each man has made this year will be one of the worst mistakes of their careers.” [RealClearPolitics.com]

BECAUSE YOU’VE READ THIS FAR – Here are two excited French bulldogs.

DELANEY DOWNER – Scientists from three universities unveiled data Tuesday showing that the water in Flint, Michigan is relatively safe from byproducts of the normal disinfection process — byproducts that actor Mark Ruffalo has claimed might make the water unsafe for bathing. Ruffalo also happens to run a charity whose “chief scientist” makes money off special sponges he claims can better detect the contaminants in Flint’s water…

COMFORT FOOD

– In defense of burger smashing.

– A brief overview of budget airlines.

– Puppy is utterly freaked out by BB-8

TWITTERAMA

@jeneps: Trump holds 2 pressers in 2 business days.
Sanders takes no Qs at event billed as presser.
Clinton hasn’t held a formal presser in 6 months.

@SimonMaloy: I want to know what Jeb would have done about the gorilla

@aedwardslevy: Somewhere in the Kingdom of the Animals a gorilla politician is being asked about Donald Trump

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Religion and the Middle East in U.S. Foreign Policy

Secretary of State John Kerry recently discussed a new approach to U.S. foreign policy making during a lecture at Rice University in Houston – a focus on religion: “The more we understand religion and the better able we are as a result to be able to engage religious actors, the more effective our diplomacy will be in advancing the interests and values of our people.”

He explained in great detail how religion would be taken more seriously as a component of foreign policy making with the creation of a permanent Office of Religion and Global Affairs within the State Department; religious actors and officials at different levels would engage regularly, going beyond leadership and “to the rank and file”; and, he recognized that religion is an integral part of people’s lives all around the world, something that is “pervasive…complex….and internally diverse, reflecting multiple schools of thought, regional variations, and complicated histories”. Ignoring religion undercuts American foreign policy. Critically, Secretary Kerry stated: “But we don’t – and this is important – we don’t establish contacts just for the sake of having interesting conversations. We do so to make progress towards our foreign policy and our national security goals, and I believe this effort is one of those multiple efforts necessary in today’s world to help make America safer in a responsible and thoughtful and perhaps even, hopefully, visionary way.”

As a student of religion and politics who focuses primarily on the Middle East, I am genuinely excited about this new approach. Religion, indeed, is an important factor in politics and needs to be taken seriously. This new approach has the promise of helping to make better-informed foreign policy decisions. Yet, its eventual distinctiveness and success depends on the extent that U.S foreign policy makers are willing to engage with non-orthodox religious actors and move beyond the nebulous substantive focus of this new policy. In particular, the implementation of the new approach to foreign policy making faces three major challenges, especially as it relates to the Middle East: the nature of religious authority, dominance of Islamists, and resemblance to CVE programs. Ultimately, I am compelled to ponder whether there is anything “new” in this new approach to foreign policy making that promises to take religion more seriously.

1) Fragmented Religious Authority: This new approach requires engagement with leaders and representatives of faith communities who typically are well-informed and wield religious authority. These individuals provide the most direct and immediate access to a religious tradition, channel insight into religious doctrines, and potentially help identify problems in policy issues as it relates to U.S. foreign policy. Yet, the Middle East in particular, and the Muslim world more broadly, experienced a major fragmentation in the nature of religious authority within the last century. The class of religious scholars (ulama) who historically wielded religious authority is weakened, abused, or ultimately turned into stooges of government. Islamic intellectuals, Islamists, and fundamentalists are the new kids on the block. They have successfully morphed into major religious actors and holders of religious authority throughout the 20th century, being only marginal outsiders a century ago.

There is no well-defined religious institutional structure and authority throughout the Middle East, perhaps with the exception of Iran. Religious authority is highly fragmented and fiercely contested between the state, preachers, scholars, Islamists, and fundamentalist groups. Under such circumstances, this new foreign policy approach that draws from religion is fraught with key dilemmas, calling into question the viability and value of this new policy.

For example, picking partner(s) to work with in a fiercely contested issue area such as religion introduces a host of potential problems. Who do U.S. state department officials interact with among various claimants of religious authority, state or civil society representatives? If civil society partners are picked, then the State Department officials must be wary about their choices, which might amount to picking winners.

By contrast, if official state religious institutions become the partner (which in most cases have limited legitimacy or credibility), such partnership renders the notion of “progress towards our foreign policy and our national security goals” futile. Religion might simply be overlaying a thinly guided effort to affect the policy making of another country. As such, it would signal, at best, unnecessary encroachment in the affairs of another country and spur anti-American and anti-Western sentiment; at worst, it would undermine strategic foreign policy goals of the U.S. throughout the Middle East in countries such as Iraq, Syria, Libya, Yemen, and Egypt by fueling religious oppositional groups’ antagonism. Critically, the majority of activities that relate to religion in international affairs originate and persist beyond formal state and multilateral institutional confines. Put differently, limiting engagement to formal institutional structures or “favorable” religious groups and individuals is unlikely to yield effective policy.

2) The Dominance of Islamists: Perhaps the most daunting challenge to the new policy is Islamists. While it is easy to classify Islamists merely as political actors, which they certainly are, they often exist as hybrid organizations. They act as political parties or have organically-tied political branches; they also operate as religious groups that preach, educate, lead prayers, and provide health care and other kinds of social services. They have their own men of religion and imams. Crucially, this Islamic activism forms the bedrock of Islamist claims to legitimacy and religious authority; they provide an alternative and, by their own claims, a more authentic Islam to the ones typically offered by state institutions of religion in association with the traditional ulama. Many buy into Islamist claims.

Yet, Islamists have historically been ignored in U.S. foreign policy making; indeed this aversion is so great that, as Amaney Jamal explains, the authoritarian outlook of the Middle East partially owes its existence to this aversion. Secular authoritarian leaders and citizens in the region channel their efforts to block Islamists from assuming power lest the U.S. turns hostile against their country; the economic and strategic costs of such an unfavorable turn outweigh the potential democratic gains. There is a peculiar dilemma. While the U.S. is dismissive of Islamists, such actors are highly popular, well-entrenched in the society, and generally command religious authority. The policy of engaging religion and religious actors but leaving major ones such as Islamists or other oppositional religious groups out undercuts this new policy’s efficacy right off the bat. Moreover, it is highly possible that the new policy might turn into liability, as alternative religious actors who are shunned will likely use this as an opportunity to actively derail U.S. foreign policy discourse and credibility. In order to make this new religion in foreign policy effective, therefore, the U.S. needs to develop a sustainable policy on engaging Islamist groups.

3) Existing Policies and Religion in Foreign Policy: Recently, Elizabeth Shakman Hurd analyzed counter violent extremism (CVE) programs in the U.S. These programs are gaining ground domestically especially among college students and have been around for many years as an instrument of foreign policy. They typically aim to tackle “bad” religion and nurture “religious moderation”, most recently in the Muslim world: “Government-led programs and projects intended to support moderate religion and to suppress violent religion are flourishing. These efforts encompass advocacy for religious freedom, interfaith dialogue, and legal protections for religious rights. Increasingly, they also include CVE.”

Many problems have historically plagued CVE and similar programs. Most critically, religion is viewed as the primary cause of political behavior, i.e. political violence and extremism. Consequently, neutralization or transformation of the religion becomes the policy option to provide the most favorable outcome in regards to providing security.

The concern is that it might eerily resemble past or existing programs that utilize religion and religious discourse to attain American foreign policy objectives such as CVE programs. While the new religion approach of the State Department remains only partially unveiled, the poor track records of similar policies in the past focusing on religion to achieve “our foreign policy and our national security goals” cautions us against taking the same path. Unless a distinct focus and approach to religion can be created, the proposed policy promises to waste resources for no clear endgame. To quote Shakman Hurd again, “The US has never disestablished religion in our foreign policy. Instead, American authorities coopt and cooperate with religious institutions and leaders overseas, perceiving these efforts as essential to securing US interests.”

The Middle East is not the only region in which we might observe these three fundamental issues: yet, their coming together in one geographic area in which the U.S. is economically, politically, and strategically involved necessitates further scrutiny in the way this new policy is conceived and implemented. As it stands, this policy fails to bring anything new to the discussion, in terms of both substance and methods.

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Where Is God?

2016-05-31-1464718653-5265855-ac7a9fc625b2434ca678409cb0b97083.jpg His fervent prayer broke the serenity of the surroundings. Startled by its intrusion, my semi-trance was mercilessly broken.

Though I’ve felt disconnected from any formal practice of religion for years, I still feel reverence in certain spaces. City living requires I find sanctuaries to step away from the frenetic energy and the grounds of Washington DC’s Franciscan monastery provide such refuge.

The architecture, the vibrant gardens, and the stillness draw me back time and again. That day was no different. Sitting before the grotto, I was in a state of wakefulness taking in the messages of my surroundings. I believe wisdom lives everywhere if we’re open to taking it in.

A tree caught my attention as I took in the landscaping. Its trunk was shaped like a tuning fork. Immediately, I was reminded to attune myself to the vibration of nature and that everything else is man-made distraction.

As a cardinal sliced through the scene before me, I was then drawn to some dying leaves. Their autumn fire was such a contrast to the spring greenery surrounding them. The theme that emerged seemed to be that of uncoordinated seasons. It reinforced the cycles of life, how opposites coexist, and that sadness and joy can surprisingly occupy the same space.

Then his cries broke the silence.

On higher ground, before a mosaic of Mary, a lone figure began a stream of consciousness prayer. The volume of his voice shattered the relative silence. Initially annoyed, I managed to settle into a curious space instead.

Who was this man? What was his story? What was the source of his fervor-or his pain? I could make out only pieces of his speech, a line of scripture here and there.
He continued for a few minutes then his prayer-or sermon-was over as abruptly as it started.

The silence engulfed me once more. I plunged deeper.

I thought about me in that holy place with my relationship to religion. Having been raised Catholic, I only identify as spiritual. I say that without a modicum of disdain or superiority. The “spiritual, not religious” tribe is not without the hypocrisy often ascribed to religion.

I only know that for me, spiritual means I believe that God can be found in all things. I saw it in the tree, the cardinal, the fallen leaves. After my ego backed down, I managed to find it in the praying man.

He had found It in the mosaic I had previously passed by. I didn’t recognize It there.
The Divine has many faces and we have a particular set of eyes with which to see. I am reminded of the poet Hafiz and Where is the Door to God?

Where is the door to God?
In the sound of a barking dog.
In the ring of a hammer.
In a drop of rain,
In the face of everyone,
in all we can behold.

Returning to my silent contemplation, my gaze fixed upon a beautiful flower. And once again, I understood that scripture is written upon each divine petal.

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Attracting Investors' Attention by Embracing the Way You Stand Out

By: Valerie Palmieri

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Image Source: ThinkStock

Recently, at an investor conference, I noticed a man following me. At every turn, he was there. As tactfully as I could, I finally asked him why he was stalking me — to which he said, “Look around the room.” Except for me and one other woman, it was filled with a bunch of men in black suits.

“You’re only one of two women here,” he said. “I want to know the ‘unicorns’ in the room.”

That encounter stuck with me. Seeing my gender as an advantage and understanding how it could help me stand out shifted my perspective with how to approach investors. Because I sell an emotional, female-focused product aimed to battle ovarian cancer, it’s often tricky to pitch to men. But instead of masking my message with masculine buzzwords, I decided to stick with what I knew and understood.

I am a woman, and I have a unique perspective to offer.

Approaching Investors Like a Unicorn

The traditional female approach is selfless and quiet; as women, we have been programmed to think of others before ourselves.

This mindset has led us to ignore our needs and, worse, our health. A lack of knowledge hasn’t led to the spread of ovarian cancer. The symptoms are not silent. In fact, 93 percent of women with ovarian cancer have a symptom but can’t “dial” it in.

We put ourselves last, but those days are coming to an end. We are “unicorns” with unique perspectives of the world, especially the business world — and it desperately needs that. In the near future, women won’t be the minority in the room; we will be part of the pack. I want to be a part of that legacy, but until then, I’m going to push investors to take interest in women’s needs.

[Read more: Spark Your Brand: Discover, Define, Design, & Deliver]

Leveraging Your Feminine Power to Get Investor Money

It’s normal to shy away from your female strengths, but that doesn’t mean you should ever take the backseat. If you’re a woman who feels the fire within to promote change, then the following tips are for you:

1. Swing for the fences. “Unicorns” never think small. They are bold and stand out. Create a disruptive product or service, and ask for the money you need to make it happen. Demonstrate your passion, knowledge, and pie-in-the-sky dreams. Don’t swing hoping to hit a single or double — swing for the fences.

Many women seeking investments undervalue themselves. They go small, overthink, and shy away from asking for more money. Studies show a positive correlation between self-confidence and success, so lead with conviction. Investors will take notice of your power and poise.

2. Speak your mind. Sheryl Sandberg talks a great deal about women going the extra mile in her book “Lean In.” She encourages women to have the confidence to ask for more money and take on the big accounts. And I couldn’t agree more.

As powerful, intelligent women, we cannot deprive the world of our intellect purely because we fear negative appearances and hurt feelings. We have a duty to speak our minds and share our perspectives. Say it loud and proud.

3. Show them what you’re made of. You’re an agile learner; you’ve climbed mountains and handled crisis after crisis. Don’t make light of your abilities. A woman can successfully lead a company, household, PTA, etc., with the right support system.

Demonstrate your knowledge. Show the projects you’ve taken from start to finish, no matter how small or seemingly insignificant. Investors are looking for those who can take what they’re given and turn it into something magical. As a unicorn, you have that ability. Show it off.

It’s no secret women possess skills and strengths that are underutilized in the business world today. However, this does not have to set the tone for the future. Start leveraging your strengths and wowing investors with your unique power as a woman. The world needs more unicorns.

Valerie Palmieri was appointed president and CEO of Vermillion in January 2015. She joined Vermillion as chief operating officer in October 2014 and brought more than 30 years of experience in the diagnostic laboratory industry, serving in numerous sales, operations, and executive leadership positions for both laboratory service and consulting organizations.Valerie holds a bachelor of science degree in medical technology from Western Connecticut State University.

Ellevate Network is a global women’s network: the essential resource for professional women who create, inspire and lead. Together, we #InvestInWomen.

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Handsome and Hanseatic: There are architectural gems in the medieval towns of former East Germany

We have pirates to blame for the Hanseatic League. It began as an alliance of city states, bonding together to defeat bandits roaming the Baltic. But it soon developed into a confederation of merchant guilds, like a medieval European Union. Between 1400 and 1800, this network of more than 100 Hansa ports and trading posts thrived. Ship-loads of timber, amber, wax, resin, wool, linen, silk, fur and rye shuttled across the chilly and treacherous Baltic.

From Lubeck to Tallin to Bergen, the League expressed its wealth and self-confidence in fine civic spaces adorned by monumental red brick Gothic architecture. Stone wasn’t easily available locally, whereas clay could be brought in from the North German Plain. Hansa’s burghers pushed brick to its limits, competing to build the tallest towers atop the vastest churches, visible from sea or land.

Inside, slender brick columns soar toward heaven, drawing the eyes of humble worshippers up in awe. During the Reformation most of the cherubs, gold-encrusted carvings and other Catholic bling were stripped out; and few of their stained glass windows survived World War Two, leaving their interior spaces light, airy and pleasingly minimalist. They bring to mind the cool, serene interiors painted by the Dutch masters.

Among the Hanseatic League’s most distinguished port cities were Wismar and Stralsund, in the north eastern corner of Germany. Together with nearby Schwerin, the elegant capital of the Grand Dukes of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, they are being discovered by a new generation from the West who avoided the Soviet-occupied East for forty years.

All three cities -Schwerin, Stralsund and Wismar- were in the zone handed to Stalin at the end of the Second World War, and they suffered the indignity of four decades of neglect under the German Democratic Republic. However, their citizens’ misfortune may have been the trio’s aesthetic salvation: for all the Eastern Bloc’s many faults, it lacked the resources to replace medieval districts with the dismal concrete of post-war North America and Western Europe.

Thousands of half-timbered structures survive throughout what was East Germany. Travelling around the eastern part of the country, many dorfs (villages) still have squat, half-timbered agricultural sheds, or Elizabethan-looking town houses with elaborate inscriptions written across the exterior in Gothic script, their owners flaunting both their piety and their affluence. Since reunification, the Germans have done a remarkable job renovating dozens of historic towns, and they deserve visitors from further afield; its remains a mystery that as one encounters no English-speaking tourists.

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When travellers read that a city has an intact central core, they are wise to brace themselves to find two or three fine streets, such as Canterbury or Salisbury in the UK or Santa Fe or New Orleans in the States. But in Schwerin, Stralsund and Wismar, there are miles of cobbled roads, lined with half-timbered or Renaissance houses. It is a pleasure to stroll their broad avenues and narrow alleys, dipping into churches or courtyards of alms houses, and stopping at a pavement cafe to enjoy the devastating ice cream sundaes the Germans have perfected.

Arguable, Teutonic sundaes deserve their own UNESCO listing, but Wismar has surely earned its recognition on the list of world heritage sites. From the railway station one follows a pretty canal, lined by eighteenth century town houses, to the church of St Nikolai. Begun in 1270, it is a Gothic masterpiece in red brick, with white decorative exterior tiles used like basket work. Inside, one vast wall is painted with the breath-taking Tree of Jesse, and another with The Man of Sorrows (“ecco homo”). However, the church is no museum piece; it became the heart of local political protest in 1989 as East Germans rose up against their Communist masters.

From St Nikolai, the canal leads to the town walls and a celebrated gateway which frames the port and the Baltic beyond. Enormous brick warehouses stand empty on the quay, waiting for someone to convert them into lofts. Also leading to the port is Spiegelberg Strasse, a broad avenue of Renaissance gems.

So authentically medieval is Wismar that the German director FW Murnau filmed his 1922 horror classic Nosferatu there, as did Werner Herzog, when he remade it in 1979. (Hitchcock credited Murnau as his greatest influence).

Wismar’s main square is lined by tall, thin houses with Dutch stepped gables, one of which is Alte Schwede (Old Swede) – Wismar was part of the Swedish empire from the Peace of Westfalia (1648) until 1903. The most unusual structure, though, is in a quiet side street: the Heiligen Geist Kirche (Holy Ghost Church), built in the 15th Century as a hospital. The rectangular interior has an extravagantly-painted wooden ceiling, depicting Old Testament scenes in innocently naive style, and a portrait of Martin Luther with a swan. Here, the town’s sickly citizens received spiritual and medical help. But today, instead of wan, bearded men in tights and lace collars, there is a cafe selling fairly traded tea and coffee in the 21st Century Protestant manner.

Stralsund is another UNESCO world heritage site, bristling with atmospheric cobbled streets. The town is surrounded by lakes and the Baltic on every side, giving it the feel of a peninsula. The interior of St Nikolaikirche, a monumental 13th century building, provides a glimpse of how churches looked when their columns, arches, apses, vaults and walls were busily decorated. It is attached to a no-nonsense red brick Gothic Rathaus (town hall) projecting the power of its burghers onto the Altmarkt (old market) before it.

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The nearby new market boasts a square surrounded by Renaissance buildings, as well as a superb art nouveau house. By the Marienkirche is a more recent slice of history: a graveyard and memorial to the Soviet soldiers who died liberating the town from the Third Reich. As with Wismar, the town’s old quarter is extensive, with pretty streets lined with medieval buildings, mostly carefully renovated once the Berlin Wall came down.

To the south is Schwerin, once capital of the Duchy of Mecklenburg. Its rulers chose a delightful spot, on an island, on which to create a castle that would strike wonder into any deluded fool seeking to challenge their authority. As the traveller turns into elegant Schloss Strasse, the castle looms ahead abruptly, filling the horizon, like a ship surging up the street. It positively glows, so beautifully has it been restored. Every architectural style is sampled in its many turrets: Renaissance, Gothic, Romanesque, classical and Louis XIV. It is as if a child assembled sundry fairly-tale castle features and glued them onto the roofline, surrounding this sweet confectionary with a lake and formal gardens. No wonder the Germans call it the Neuschwanstein of the north. The castle is now the seat of the regional parliament, doubling as a popular tourist destination. It has a café terrace overlooking the lake, offering home-made cakes, those sensational ice cream sundaes, and coffee that always seems to taste so good in Germany.

Schwerin is surrounded by a dozen lakes, absorbed into its attractive urban space, meaning it is both green and highly liveable for those who like walking and cycling. Just occasionally down an alley one glimpses a shattered remnant from the Communist era. Otherwise, it presents a luminous face to the world.

I travelled throughout the German Democratic Republic in the early 1980s and remember well the facades of even the most distinguished buildings, gray and crumbling from neglect. Behind those battered exteriors were millions of people struggling to keep their dignity intact in the face of shortages, lie-filled official propaganda, and the ever-present fear of the state.

Since reunification there has been muttering about how much West German tax payers’ money goes to the East. But sitting at a cafe in Schwerin, watching joggers pad along the lakeside path, I wonder if the greater chasm isn’t between the generations within what was the German Democratic Republic. How does a middle aged East German explain to their children and grandchildren the deprivation and limited opportunities they endured, compared with the everyday affluence, comfort, convenience and choice on offer today? No doubt the war generation felt the same about the relatively privileged generation who followed them. It’s good to know that sometimes the arc of history moves in the right direction.

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