Coffee in Japan: Canned Convenience

While the kissaten offers a kind of nostalgic space to sit back and leisurely indulge in the atmosphere of yesteryear, canned and ready-to-drink (RTD) varieties of coffee comfortably make their home in the highly competitive world of fast-paced convenience. A mainstay that has carved out its own permanent spot in the over 5 million vending machines dotted across Japan, canned coffee is not only a pioneer product in the market, it has, over time proven itself to be its dominant contender. So influential is this canned beverage in fact, that the All Japan Coffee Association attributes canned coffee as one of the factors that contributed to the popularity of coffee itself in Japan as a whole.

Developed by UCC Ueshima Coffee Co., a coffee manufacturer and retailer based in Kobe whose products maintain their popularity today, canned coffee first became available in 1969. UCC refined technology that produced a type of coffee beverage that could be kept in a can for long periods of time without losing its flavour, and introduced the world’s first long-lasting canned coffee drink containing milk. However it was only after this product innovation was introduced during the World Exposition in Osaka a year later that canned coffee as a product began to really catch on.

The invention and subsequent spread of the hot/cold vending machine in 1973 by Pokka Corporation allowed canned coffee a convenient (and eventually ubiquitous) retail unit that could supply anybody a coffee drink in most places and situations – whether it be while waiting for the train, walking home, or in the office or at school. To date, canned coffee remains the main offering of the over 2 million vending machines dedicated to selling beverages.

Traditionally, canned and RTD coffee has been targeted towards male consumers, and the associated promotion and advertising reflects this. A slew of manly celebrities such as Brad Pitt (for Roots), Arnold Schwarzennegar (for Suntory) and, perhaps most well known, Tommy Lee Jones (for Boss), have all lent their chiseled visages to a particular brand of canned coffee. In addition, most of the popular brands of canned coffee utilise the salaryman (and a lot of wistful gazing into the distance) to reinforce the stoic testosterone of their campaigns.

In more contemporary times, the concept of easily available coffee has taken on a life of its own, and a wider variety of similarly convenient RTD coffee (or coffee-flavoured milk, if you prefer) has become readily available at any local convenience store or supermarket aisle. “Taste innovation” is particularly important to drink manufacturers, and novelty coffees that include unusual and traditional ingredients as well as products that are purported to provide numerous health benefits have also been popping up.

There is now an astounding array of options that differ in not only taste, but packaging: from chilled single serve coffee served in stylishly designed cups (カップ/チルドコーヒー) to coffee served in plastic PET bottles that can be carried around throughout the day (ペットボトルコーヒー) and paper carton packaging (紙パックコーヒー). Ready-to-drink coffee is no longer confining itself solely to the male demographic.

For regulatory purposes, there are four main coffee/coffee-related categories that broadly encompass most convenience coffee options: “coffee” (コーヒー) which contains the equivalent of 5g of coffee beans per 100g of beverage, “coffee drink” (コーヒー飲料) which contains between 2.5g and 5g, and “coffee added” chilled drinks  for anything less than 2.5g (コーヒー入り清涼飲料). In addition, coffee drinks which contain more than 3% milk solids are sometimes classified as “milk products”.

So what does this type of coffee actually taste like? Although the traditional canned varieties are typically milky and very sweet, there is now such a broad array of options that we decided to do a comparison of a couple of popular varieties.

In total we sampled fifteen different brands of coffee: ten in the “coffee” category, four in the “milk products” category, and one in the “coffee drink” category. As expected, the staple canned coffee varieties (Georgia, FIRE, Wonda and Boss) were generally very sweet with a milky taste vaguely reminiscent of coffee, and there was no discernible difference in taste worth noting.

A quick survey of opinions around the HUB shared office unanimously concluded that the “Healthia” coffee, a brand manufactured by pharmaceutical company Kao and marketed as an aid for weight loss, tasted the most terrible, while Roots Aroma was dark, (expectantly) aromatic and viewed pretty favourably for a canned coffee.

We also sampled chilled cup coffee varieties that are especially popular among young women. Dessert-themed chilled cup coffee is becoming an increasingly common sight with flavours like tiramisu, chocolate cappuccino and praline, making appearances on the shelves of convenience stores and supermarkets.

The market for this type of “chilled cup” is dominated by Morinaga’s Mt.Rainer brand, who first introduced this style of coffee in 1995. In partnership with Suntory, this style of coffee was also the way that Starbucks chose to enter the RTD market in 2005 with their ‘Discoveries‘ range. In terms of packaging, the slightly sophisticated appeal of this product partially lies in the fact that the cup design enables consumers to elegantly sip their coffee through a straw – an image which flies in the face of the stereotypical salaryman chugging down his can of coffee at the train station. Taste-wise, these varieties use manufacturing processes which do not involve huge temperature differences (like canned coffee), and have shorter storage lives which usually results in greater freshness and flavour of these drinks when compared to traditional canned varieties (something also reflected in their price tags).

Despite the trends towards freshly brewed coffee (convenience stores are installing espresso machines in their outlets for example) and the growing popularity of home-brewing, canned coffee doesn’t look like it is going to be disappearing any time soon. As a category of drink, both the products and experience of drinking this type of convenience coffee is quite distinct from how coffee is consumed elsewhere, and it makes up only one part of a person’s average coffee “repertoire”  so to speak. Both traditional canned varieties and RTD products exist alongside the kissaten as well as an eclectic mix of other cultural-social spaces including chain-store franchises, speciality coffee shops and cafes, and all of this is part of what makes the experience of drinking coffee in Japan so dynamic.

 

Coffee in Japan: The Kissaten

While the image of Japan as a nation resolutely faithful to its tradition of tea is a mainstay in most popular perceptions of the country, there is another beverage which occupies a large part of everyday urban life and culture. In addition to being the third largest importer of coffee beans worldwide after the United States and Germany, the consumption of both instant and roasted coffee in Japan is about double that of green tea according to research from the All Japan Coffee Association.

Coffee in Japan is an interesting beast. It comes in all different shapes, sizes and flavours – cold and in a can, embellished with latte art, made with a syphon, packaged and sold in a convenience store – the list goes on. More broadly, the marketing of coffee in all its forms as well as the experience of how it is consumed in Japan is also strikingly varied. The sheer diversity of the coffee experience in Japan can be a little bewildering, but through it all one thing is obvious: coffee is serious business here. We’ve decided to look a little deeper  by starting a series centred on coffee in all of its manifestations, and to start off with we have the timeless ‘kissaten‘.

A cursory Google search on what differentiates a ‘kissaten’ (喫茶店)from the multitude of other names that are used to describe establishments that serve coffee (including cafe and coffee house) reveals that there is a bit of confusion over any concrete distinguishing characteristics. Legally the word is used to designate shops that focus on the serving of coffee and drinks, but calling a shop a ‘kissaten’ in general conversation implies a particular kind of establishment.

There is a kind of retro image associated with the kissaten, and this old-fashioned feel is reflected in the interior of a store, which may be furnished with leather seats, sturdy, varnished wood tables, and Bauhaus-style furniture. Lighting is often dim and slightly moody, and there is an old-world feel that is reminiscent of the Showa or Taisho period. A kissaten does not necessarily have to have history or even have to be “old” in age, but they do stir up a sense of nostalgia.

The atmosphere and ambience of a kissaten tends to be more formal than chain store coffee joints and cafes, and unlike these places there is table service. Mood-wise, a kissaten tends to be a little more subdued and calm, a pocket of nostalgia where a typically older set of people go to collect their thoughts or catch up with each other while lingering over a cup of coffee.

The coffee itself is often served strong and black with a small pot of milk and sugar syrup at the side – a far cry from the cups of steamed milk and espresso that dominate the menus of “younger” cafes. This dark blend is presented in vintage looking cups and saucers, whose non-uniformity is a gentle reminder that the kissaten is often a more independent and local enterprise. It is not unusual for a shop to have a daily stream of well-known regular customers who have been patrons for years.

The main focus of a kissaten is generally on the atmosphere and the leisurely style of drinking coffee in these places, and in the  past kissaten’s did not typically offer much variety in terms of food apart from sandwiches, pasta, curry rice and other simple items. The morning breakfast set menu is a common feature of a lot of kissaten – a piece of toast or two with coffee and an egg or fruit.

Although the number of kissaten is being overtaken by chain store coffee shops and they aren’t quite as “trendy” as the growing number of cafes, they occupy a very special place in the Japanese coffee scene. They serve a particular kind of coffee, and with it, a particular kind of nostalgic experience that definitely has its aficionados.

 

Poutine-Flavored Soda is for People With Iron Stomachs

Have you ever heard of poutine? No? Well, it’s a Canadian dish that’s made with french fries which have been topped with brown gravy and cheese curds. Other variations exist, but that’s basically what the dish is.

Doesn’t sound very appetizing, does it? It probably has a certain appeal, though, since has been around since the late 1950s. Now take that dish and imagine it as a drink… then take a sip of Seattle-based Jones Soda’s Poutine Soda and see if it matches your imagination or expectations.

Poutine Drink

Jones Soda describes the drink as having “a nice balance of rich, savory gravy over a starchy potato base, and accented with those fatty, cheesy notes you expect in a plate of poutine.”

I haven’t tried it myself, but others have, and I’ll leave you to gauge how good or bad it was based on their reactions:

[via Foodbeast]

Kagua – Japanese Luxury Craft Beer

As beer becomes increasingly popular around Asia, the demand for better quality, premium beer is likely to rise. Our friends over at COEDO have done an incredible job pairing great beer with modern Japanese design and getting global accolades, so it’s great to see more of it coming out of Japan.

Image via draftbeer.jp

Recognising this trend Nippon Craft Beer began offering Kagua, a luxury craft beer; is actually brewed in Belgium by the Japanese creators, but infused with Japanese herbs and special yeasts, designed for high-end dinning.

Launched in March last year (2012) at Toyoda and Gora Kadan in Tokyo’s expensive Ginza quarter, Kagua is now sold in over 170 haute-cuisine restaurants and bars across Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore.

After restaurant dinners requested to buy the beer to drink at home or to give to friends as gifts Nippon Craft foods began selling the beer at Matsuya department stores in Ginza and then offered limited quantities of Kagua online in cases of six, which all became sold out after just a couple of weeks. From March 2013, Kagua will also be sold in cases of twelve to celebrate the first anniversary of the beer. One 330 ml bottle of Kagua costs 630 Yen (US$6.8).

In an interview with Nikkei’s Trendy magazine, Mr Shiro Yamada of Nippon Craft Beer commented that the growth in demand for craft beer is extremely fast paced and overtaking the boom in popularity for traditional Japanese shochu and sake. The Video bellow features a presentation by Mr Yamada in English.

Kagua’s unique taste is supposed to derive from the mixture of  Japanese herbs such as yuzu citrus and sansho pepper, which are seldom used in beer production and the use of high quality yeasts specially selected from some of the world’s best beers. In order to ensure smooth production, Nippon Craft Beer teamed up with an experienced Belgian brewer as (according to Nippon Craft Beer) there are no facilities in Japan which can accomodate Kagua’s original recipe.

There are two varieties of Kagua beer; Blanc and Rouge (pictured bellow).

In Kagua Blanc (above left) , flavour is dominated by the yuzu citrus and yeast. Kagua Rouge (above right) is a mix of spicy sansho papper and roasted malt.

Image via draftbeer.jp

To fully appreciate Kagua’s original taste, it is recommended to drink it from a wine glass.

In Japan’s highly competitive beer market, Kagua has differentiated itself  as exclusively a luxury, high-end beer suited for restaurant dinning. As the beer was only launched a year ago it will be interesting to see how the popularity for the beer develops in Japan and across Asia among the wealthy who’s tastes and demand for beer becomes more sophisticated.

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Here’s a video showing the Le Whaf and some of their awesome smokey beverages:

The people look a bit strange, drinking “smoke” and all that, but it seems like a pretty neat idea, plus it cuts down on the calories big time. Extremely novel too, although it’s a bit pricey at €129 (~$160 USD).

[via Gadget Review]


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