Japanese high school girl uniform customized

Any visitor to Japan will have immediately noticed the gangs of school girls hanging out around town in their school uniforms. Obviously they are not in class but they still want to keep their uniforms on even in their free time.

Tapping into this love of uniforms, Nanchatte seifuku (なんちゃって制服, lit. “just kidding uniform”) is a fashion trend, said to have started way back in 2002, where high school students purchase and customize school uniforms to wear, even though it is not compulsory at their school.

Currently running at Ikebukuro’s Sunshine City until March 29, the Brand School Uniform Collection 2010 (ブランド制服コレクション) brings together all the leaders of this fashion subculture to sell customizable uniform clothes to hordes of mother and daughters. High school entrance has been decided for a new generation and it’s time to deck yourself out in a blazer, skirt, tie, socks — all as a matter of choice. You can mix and match as you like, and each brand has hundreds of kinds of items on sale.

The common amount to spend on a set is between 50 and 80,000 JPY (c.$550-880), according to the Nikkei Marketing Journal. The Brand School Uniform Collection was held first in 2007 in just one place but now has widened to seven, with its sales expected to be three times that of last year’s.

nanchatte-seifuku-school-uniform[Image via 47 News.]

A market that was once dominated by Harajuku store Conomi is now seeing competition from other brands and particularly online retail, such as cecile. What’s more, this month saw the founding of a whole magazine devoted to this fashion, School Mix (スクールミックス). Others have reported on how this trend is even spreading to other countries, and it’s also worth noting how adult Japanese females use elements of school uniforms (such as plaid skirts) in their outfits to make themselves look young and cute.

This is no doubt pretty strange to western eyes. I recall fellow students rushing home after school, eager to tear off their uniforms and get their own clothes on. The idea that students at high schools without mandatory uniforms would want to express their fashion identity through nanchatte seifuku is hard to comprehend. Far from putting on “home clothes” after lessons end, even students at schools with compulsory uniforms are now said instead just to customize their uniform with a different tie or other garment to express their “out-of-school” self.

Abercrombie and Fitch Ginza – Our impressions

Since fashion market watcher David Marx hit the bulls eye perfectly with his assessment of Abercrombie’s new Ginza flagship store, we have very little to add to the story besides the tweet we blurted out while in the midst of the most traumatic shopping afternoon ever. Actually, we were scouting the store for a client report, but it didn’t take long to confirm what we knew already.

To be fair, I don’t want to write a hit job on the brand, but the market-entry history of Japan in the last…well…150 year suggests that you can’t just waltz into the market, business as usual, and sell a bunch of American goods to consumers that you perceive as desperate for something new. Especially if the items are marked-up in a time of recession, and when real fast-fashion brands are doing brisk sales.

However, this recent damning review by Japanese celebrity Midori Utsumi pretty much sums up what I’ve heard from every other Japanese consumer I’ve queried about the shop. Granted, she’s not exactly the target customer, but there are elements of the Japanese retail experience that cross most demographics.

Money quote: もう、最悪!でした。(Ugh, it was the worst!)

She goes on to talk about the darkness, the smell, how cramped it is, and how the elevators only go straight to the seventh floor, leaving you to navigate the rest of the building by stairs. The women’s dressing room is only on the 10th floor, and the cash register is only on the 11th. Plus, when she asked where the restroom was, she was told that they don’t have one. Much of the rest of the blog piece is a lament on the poor training and manners of the staff.

As a native Ohioan who grew up with the brand all around me, I have a love-hate relationship to its image. While many of my friends and classmates wore A&F or worked at its shops (and eventually in its offices), I was never able to get excited about the clothes there because they never seemed to look right on my slim, 5′8″ frame. Since my body size is fairly average around these parts, I feel that Japanese men have similar issues.

Here’s a great video of one of the A&F Ginza shop’s recent spelunkers.

It could have a lot to do with the nature of the brand itself, which oozes New England, blue-blood arrogance mixed with the sweat of jocks who push geeks into lockers. Not that I was one of those geeks or anything…I’m not bitter, I swear.

It’s odd enough that the first five sales floors of the 11-story building are for men’s clothes, and 8~11 are for women. Go into nearly any other retail shop in Japan that has mixed fashion and the women’s clothes are ALWAYS first. So, the shop that has half-naked male models and eleven floors of portraits of naked sportsmen adorning the staircase is prioritizing its male customers? Why didn’t they just open up in the middle of Shinjuku ni-chome and get it over with?

abercrombie-fitch-ginza-tokyo

To get an idea of the digital buzz around the brand, check out the official A&F Mixi group. I’m not saying that it represents all of Japan, but just the number of members compared to similar brands can provide some perspective.

In the end, it’s an interesting experiment and I wish A&F success, especially since the Asian market as a whole has better chances for finding the right consumer. Looking forward, since former company-mate Victoria’s Secret will surely be coming into the local market soon let’s see what kind of approach they take. Somehow I think that big, busty, leggy models will resonate with Japanese women the same way that blue-eyed and buff A&F models do with Japanese men.

That doesn’t mean that they can’t come to Japan, but it does mean that they need to do some research first.

brands4friends auction site discounts top fashion

German online retail site brands4friends yesterday launched its service in Japan, in which it sells remainders of high quality brand name goods through temporary auctions.

Auctions are familiar to Japanese users through already popular ones like Yahoo! but this represents a new kind of service for the market. Through brands4friends consumers can get their hands not on cheap used goods (which consumers here are traditionally suspicious of anyway), but brand and outlet fashion products that can sell for up to seventy percent off. Auctions are organized by brand and the duration of each one is fixed (75 hours), along with the number of items, thus making each sale a kind of event in which consumers are encouraged to enter quickly.

brands4friends-2

The company has promised some four hundred brands — clothes, of course, but also household goods, appliances and accessories. Already a hit in its native Germany, the service hopes to have a quarter of a million registered users in two years’ time, and annual sales of 100 billion yen ($1.1 billion).

brands4friends-1

To register you require an invitation from a current member, though it is open to any user to join until March 11. This slight sense of exclusivity, coupled with the temporariness of the auctions (once over apparently you cannot search for sold items or prices), should build buzz for the site.

We have already seen how this real-time got-to-get-it-now kind of retail experience has been a hit for Tokyo Girls Collection, where consumers are able to purchase clothes through their phones as they watch them being worn by popular models. If brands4friends succeeds, it will be another milestone in the trend towards democratic and cheap fast fashion.

HP Mini 210 Vivienne Tam Edition leaps off the runway and into our hands

Paging all butterfly-admiring netbook lovers! With spring upon us, HP’s officially launching the Mini 210 Vivienne Tam edition that it previewed back at September’s Fall Fashion Week, and, well, it sure is unique looking. We actually got to take a peek at it a few weeks ago, and while the butterfly adorned cover may only appeal to a certain sex type, the gold covered keyboard is what you’d expect kings and queens to type on. Okay so, the design wasn’t really in line with our tastes, but at least we’re comfortable with the internal specs which are identical to the Mini 210 we recently reviewed (sans the Broadcom Crystal HD). And apparently the Mini should sound as good as it looks — HP’s updated Vivienne’s netbook with Beats by Dr. Dre audio software, which to date has only been found in the company’s Envy line. Interesting move, but of course it’s still very hard for us to understand why anyone would spend $600 on a netbook that’s got an extremely frustrating touchpad and only a three-cell battery — but we’d guess that it probably has to do with that whole ‘beauty is pain’ thing. The full press release is after the break.

Continue reading HP Mini 210 Vivienne Tam Edition leaps off the runway and into our hands

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Necktie Reuse

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New Startups: Narwhal Company is the inspirational idea of an everyday person that was looking to move away from the 9-5 lifestyle and thrive in their entrepreneurial spirit. Thus, the idea to provide fashionable accessories from the re-use of neckties was born. Narwhal Co. is a unique and green product that hopes to be a catalyst for the funding of domestic and international humanitarian projects.

Narwhal Co [New Startups]

Inden: Deerskin Leather iPhone Cover Mixes Crafts with Technology

This is certainly an innovative and chic mixture of the new and the old if ever there was one.

Design firm Maruwakaya specialize in stylish consumer goods that collaborate with contemporary brands and traditional crafts. They previously worked with Puma to produce an extraordinary wooden bento box. Now they have created a cover for your iPhone made out of lacquer and deerskin leather (known as “inden” or 印伝/印傳), a technique famous in Yamanashi. As you can see below, this is not only an original choice of materials but the results are very striking too.

inden-iphone-cover

What the inden technique does is it makes leather-ware highly durable; ideal for handsets that you take everywhere around with you. The product comes in four different colors and designs. It also comes with a wooden box but, with a price tag between 11 and 12,500 JPY (c.$110-250), this is definitely not a casual purchase. Manufactured in strictly limited numbers and only available online, Maruwakaya is taking orders to be shipped in February at time of writing.

Boot Buddy

stirrups.bmpNBC Los Angeles: Now that winter is in full swing, boots have transitioned from accessory to staple. With that switch comes some additional movements; primarily involving the shifting and bunching of boot-tucked jeans.

Eliminate baggy knees and aggravation with a pair of Stirrupz. Easy to use and comfortable to wear, they grab onto the bottom of your jeans and loop onto your foot for a perfectly-taut, perfectly-tucked pair of jeans.

Boot Buddy [NBC Los Angeles]

55DSL x Coca-Cola marketing collaboration

Diesel’s streetwear sub-brand 55DSL’s Japanese side has done an interesting collaboration with Coca-Cola that evolved from a simple bottle design contest. We first found these a couple of months ago while scouring Harajuku with a client (conveniently an FMCG client), and the bottles immediately grabbed our attention as we walked by.

coca-cola-55dsl-4

The design contest started with a call out for designers to make their own contour bottle for Coca-Cola, and the finalists were boiled down to fifteen choices. From there, a winning design was chosen and made into t-shirts and skate decks for sale.

dsl55-coca-cola-collab-1

We actually thought that the bottles were cool enough on their own, but, alas, they weren’t for sale.

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Not sure if the display is still up, but the bottles were all on display for a while, as well as the winning design’s goods.

Hermès × Tokujin Yoshioka make digital retail magic

I need to go and see this!

hermes-tokujin-yoshioka

We had the pleasure of sitting down with Tokujin Yoshioka in his home/studio in Daikanyama during one of our client Trend Tours in 2007, and it still ranks in our top five best creative sit-downs ever.

via Core77

Personalized, Engraved Bike Chainrings

session-ring

Speaking of fixed-gear bikes, one of the most fun (and expensive) parts of riding one is customization. That can be as simple as keeping your alleycat road-race spoke-cards in the wheels, or as expensive as buying imported vintage Japanese frames.

Now your customization can go to the absurd lengths of chainring engraving. Session Sprockets will sell you an aluminum chainring engraved with the message or artwork of your choice. The site even has an easy-to-use Flash-based tool to help you design it. Here’s my awesome effort. I decided to use the supplied high-quality clip-art to represent a giant chick attacking a car:

my-other-bike

Session Sprockets was founded by MIT mechanical engineering student, and the chainrings are milled and engraved in-house. You can choose from two sized rings, standard (130 mm BCD, 48 tooth) or track (144 mm BCD, 49 tooth) for $100 and $110 respectively.

Session Sprockets [Session Sprockets via