
Around the corner from the PCMag.com office is a construction site for a hi-rise apartment complex. Last Tuesday, when I passed it on my lunch hour, I noticed one of the workers pointing his iPhone’s camera up at the structure, so I tried to see what he was aiming at.
Above the building, I spotted a rainbow-like arc that I immediately recognized as a portion of a solar halo, and snapped a number of pictures of it (such as the one above) mostly with my Canon SD990 IS. (I even got a few good shots of it with my iPhone.)
In observing and photographing solar halo phenomena, the biggest obstacle, ironically, is the Sun itself. You must avoid looking at the Sun–even when partially obscured by thin clouds, looking directly at it can cause eye damage. As for photography, the Sun’s glare can wash out much of the detail of the delicate arcs, and spots, as well as the structure of the accompanying cirrostratus (and sometimes cirrus) clouds. So be sure to hide the Sun behind a tree, a building, a street sign, or other object–even a hand will do in a pinch.
Note that in photographing a halo, you’ll need to focus on the sky rather than the nearby object, or else the halo will be blurred. You can do this by pointing the camera at the open sky and engaging the autofocus if you’re in automatic mode–usually, a green box will appear when the shutter is half-pressed. Then, while keeping the shutter half-pressed, you should return to your initial framing with the nearby object in view, and press the shutter fully to complete the shot) It’s a good idea to move the camera around a bit to find the place with the least glare before you shoot. Although it’s good to try both, I find that wider-field shots often work better than close-ups–for one thing, if you want to capture the entire solar halo, it may be necessary to go as wide as you can.