Sturmey Archer Three-Speed Fixed Gear Hub

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Like the simple, direct feel of a fixed gear hub, but miss the ability to shift down for a hill? Old-school hub-gear maker Sturmey Archer has just the thing: the new S3X Fixed Gear Hub.

The S3X is an aluminum fixed-gear hub (in 120mm and 130mm sizes) with three speeds. The difference between this and any other three-speed hub is that there is no freewheel, meaning that, like any fixed-gear, the pedals are always moving, and you can skid the rear wheel without a brake.

Top speed runs direct, and when you shift down you’ll get -25% and -37.5% of the third gear. Sturmey Archer plans on making the requisite anodized color-range, and you should be able to buy down-tube or bar-end shifters. And this is where the fixed-gear purists will balk: You’ll need to run a cable and mount a lever.

It looks like the perfect compromise: gears when you need them, and all the fun of riding with a fixed drivetrain. The hubs will be available (hopefully) by the end of the year and will go for around $150.

Product page [Sunrace Sturmey Archer via Urban Velo]

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Home-Made Cargo Bike Is Cheap, Easy Rider

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Want to trade your expensive car for a cheap bike in “These Troubled Economic Times”? Scared that you might not be able to make those monthly mega-mart runs and still carry home all that important junk food? Clearly a purpose-made cargo bike is out of the question, as it is a relatively expensive specialist machine. We have the answer: A hacked together cargo bike.

Flickr user Harvwoien took two old beaters and joined them together. The front bike is unmodified, other than the removal of the rear wheel. The rear bike has been more drastically chopped, and is now missing its down-tube. The end of the top-tube has been hammered flat and drilled and then bolted onto the back of the seat-post of the front bicycle, and its bottom-bracket bolted to the dropouts.

Lastly, an old derailleur has been used to guide the chain through the frankenframes, and a pair of wire baskets hung on the sides to carry cargo. Although rather scrappy, the solution is elegant in its simplicity, and while it doesn’t have the flat load-bed of some ready-made options, you do get the extra stability of a long wheelbase. Now, imagine this made with an old mixte or step-through frame, and the extra load-space it would give, and you have a rather splendid and cheap bike, ready for a shopping trip. Bonus: It’s so ugly, nobody would ever steal it.

Extra Bike [Flickr via Bike Hacks]

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A Heads-Up Map Display for iPhone-Using Bicyclists

If the future could be somehow wrangled from an abstract concept and transformed into a city, that city would of course be Tokyo. And riding the streets of that future-tropolis would be a cyclist wearing the iPhone ARider Bicycle Navigation System, a helmet mounted display that hooks into the iPhone.

Designed by future-mongers Ubiquitous Entertainment, the ARider consists of a mount on top of the helmet for an iPhone 3GS, which keeps the handset horizontal and lets the compass-guided maps swing freely. The iPhone is connected to a flip-out display which puts the map in front of the cyclist’s eye: a safe, always available HUD.

The display itself is an off-the-shelf unit from the Scalar Corporation, and is small and light enough to simply be Scotch-taped to the helmet. A wire runs video from the iPhone, but as the built-in Maps application offers no video-out signal, the folks at Ubiquitous Entertainment wrote their own application which sends video to the HMD (Helmet Mounted Display). The result is an always visible map that, although not very sharp or of high enough resolution to replace the iPhone’s screen, will give enough directional and distance information to guide the rider along city streets.

I’d love to try this, and maybe we’ll see a real product in the future: Ubiquitous Entertainment is no tiny garage-band of a company. It does business with the likes of NTT DoCoMo and Konami.

Product page [Zeptotools via Zikkir and Core77]


Knog Demonstrates Keyless Electronic Bike Lock

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Knog, the Aussie bike accessory maker, has been showing off a new keyless, electronic bicycle lock at Interbike 2009 in Las Vegas.

The lock is a U (or D) type, fashioned from hardened steel with a fetching orange rubber internal trim which is alone an excellent feature, obviating top-tube pads immediately. The folks at bike blog Urban Velo, who took these pictures and played with the lock, say that there are no batteries either inside the lock or the unlocking fob, and that solid-state electronics are somehow employed.

It’s an interesting idea, and we’re all for adding security, but while trying out, say, beta software is unlikely to cause trouble, testing out unproven bike lock tech is way more scary. We’ll be watching this one closely.

Knog Solid State U-Lock [Urban Velo]

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Hips-On With Fabric Horse Superhero Utility Belt

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Before we start this review, I want to say two things. One, I bought this utility belt right after writing about it at the beginning of August. I liked it then, and I like it now that I have used it. While there are a few niggles, this will be less of a review and more of a how-to. Second, I know that this color scheme makes it look like a carpenter’s tool-belt. Thanks to everyone who keeps pointing that out.

The belt is made for cyclists, and every part of the design shows this. The most obvious is the U-Lock holder on the back, which fits a Kryptonite Evo Mini, although as the belts are made to order you can specify another size. The Superhero is the full-sized nerd-belt (there is also a half-belt with less pockets), and is made from nylon or canvas sections mounted onto an old car seatbelt (we love the idea of dead cars resurrected as bike accessories). The whole thing is secured by Velcro, letting you adjust the size to fit over different clothes very quickly.

The Velcro feels odd at first. Because you can load up the Superhero with so much weight, it’s a little nerve-wracking not to have a proper clasp. In practice, the long wide strips are more than equal to a full load, and better, there is no buckle to dig into you.

So, the build-quality is fine, and worth the $120. What you all want to know is how does it work, and what do all those hooks and pockets do? I shall tell you.


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At the back, you have the aforementioned lock-holster. If you’re the type that can’t spoil the lines of your bike with a lock-bracket, the holster is the most comfortable way to carry your lock. It slides in and out with a shove and a tug, and when you’re on the bike you can’t feel it. The rear position means that it often feels as if it might catch on the seat, but in practice mine never has.

Next around are a pair of elastic loops. I haven’t worked out a use for these yet (they’d hold a wrench, but that will fit elsewhere and be less dangly), so suggestions are welcome. Alongside these loops is a metal hook, onto which you can clip keys. One advantage of a belt for carrying your gear is that, when seated, it doesn’t jiggle much and you don’t feel any weight. This means the keys are silent on the bike, although you’ll jangle like a spinster kindergarten teacher’s ears when you start walking.

Then we come to the first pocket, which sits just behind the right hip, and can be left gaping open to carry a can of beer or cocktail shaker, or closed with a press-stud. This model is the Relaxed Superhero – Rust, which is made from waxed canvas and is floppier than the nylon, and also unpadded. Other belts have a zipper here. The open hole also works great for holding gloves or a cap, or anything you might toss in there.

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Next to this is a Velcro-closing pocket that will fit a multi-tool or a cellphone. In fact, it’ll fit a cellphone, an iPod Touch and an iPod Nano, all at once. Being at the front right, it’s very easy to get to, even while riding. Finally, for this side at least, we get to the money pocket, which will hold a few notes and coins. The Superhero effectively closes off your pants pockets, so this is useful, if a little bit of a squeeze for the fingers. Because this pocket is sewn top and bottom, there is also space to squeeze an iPod Nano in behind it.

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On the other side is a solitary pocket, but it makes up for its rarity with size. The zippered pouch looks like a whole fanny-pack on its own, and can fit a lot of gear inside. This could be a home for your toolkit: it’ll hold an inner-tube, multi-tool, 15mm wrench, patch kit, as well as a wallet. There’s also a small patch pocket at the back, where you could slide credit cards, a slim phone or an iPod, or cash money. You’d also get a mini-pump in here, but you don’t need to as right next door is a…

Pump loop. This is simply two pieces of Velcro that will wrap and secure a pump, and it is probably the dorkiest feature of all. It is also damn useful, as you don’t have to squeeze an awkward tube in anywhere else.

That’s it. As you can see, it looks great on, once you’ve got past the utilitarian construction-site aesthetic. I have even worn it off the bike, and it drew a mixture of looks, from curiosity to pity. And that was from people I saw walking towards me: God knows what the people behind me thought when they saw a bike pump hanging from my butt.

Product page [Fabric Horse]

Photos: Charlie Sorrel
Model: The Lady
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Magnetic Bike Pedals Work With Any Shoes

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Three weeks ago we showed you Mavic’s magnetic shoe/bike pedal combo, which drew some interesting comments about their efficacy. Reader Reubennz:

If it’s strong enough to hold the foot in place through the second part of the rotation how do you ever release from the pedal? If the magnet is weak enough to release straight up then it could never allow any kind of power advantage.

We agree, and we see the exact same problem with this version from Proton Locks. While it has a big advantage over the Mavic EZ-Ride pedals in that it comes with magnetic plates to bolt onto your own shoes, rather than requiring you buy a specially made pair, it still suffers from a lack of locking. Toe clips and clip-less pedals are meant to keep you foot on the pedal however hard you pull, for maximum power transfer. As Reubennz points out, if the magnets could do that, you’d never be able to remove your feet.

The Proton pedals have another disadvantage. They cost $145 for the mini pedals and $165 for the full-sized, against just $60 for the Mavics. On the other hand, you don’t have to drop another $90 on the Mavic-compatible shoes. Me? I’ll stick with my regular sneakers and cheap cage/strap setup.

Product page [Proton Locks via Cyclelicious]

Magnetic Bike Pedals Stick to Your Feet


Bike In A Box Promises Cheap, Safe Kid’s Cycles

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Online cycle store Performance Bicycle will sell you a properly assembled kid’s bike and send it to you in a box. The scheme is called “Bike in a Box”, and the advantage is that, unlike the bikes that come from a department store, they are properly put together instead of poorly assembled machines waiting for a long downhill stretch before they start to shed nuts and bolts.

Performance Bicycle combines this with the “Kid’s Bike Growth Guarantee”, where you get help finding the right size bike for your children, and then get discounts when you move up to bigger rides.

Unless you already know how to put together and repair a bike, it’s a bad idea to buy unassembled mail order machine or to chance it at the crappy mall store, especially when the bike is for a child who, unlike you, won’t be alert to the clicks and squeaks that warn of impending disaster. Pretty much every bike I have bought from a non-bike shop has been a disaster and required a thorough going over to make it safe. And while the ideal is to buy from your local bike shop, that isn’t always cheap enough. These machines are put together in China, in a factory, so they should be at least properly built.

The boxed bikes come sized for kids from 3 to 12, and run from $140 to $330 for a 24-inch mountain bike.

Product page [Performance Bicycles via Cyclelicious]


Helmet Mount Puts Cameras Up-Top and (First) Personal

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I’m already preparing my Christmas gift list. And if, for the first time in years, somebody actually buys me a present, they can buy me this, the Photojojo Happy Helmet Bike Camera Mount.

The mount is dead simple — a pair of 1-inch wide nylon straps which thread through the ventilation holes in a bicycle helmet and cinch tight with plastic clamps. In the center is a quick-release tripod socket, strong enough to hold a compact point-n-shoot camera as you jiggle down the street.

Why is this better than, say, our own abortive attempt to build a handlebar camera mount? Because, being up on your head it is rattled much less, as you body absorbs the shock, making for a safer camera and also (unless you are a heavy drinker on a morning ride) less shaky pictures and video. It’ll also follow what you are looking at instead of slavishly staring ahead into the backs of frustrated, traffic-jammed cars.

And we guess video is what this mount will be best at, unless you want to rig a remote shutter release, too. Worried about looking dorky? Too late! You’re already wearing a bike helmet, so it can’t get much worse (note, we fully endorse wearing a helmet. We just don’t like the look of them).

$20 each, or $36 for a romantic his’n’hers double-pack. Available now.

Product page [Photojojo]


Dahon iPhone Bike Mount Is Waterproof, Shockproof

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Waterproof? Check. Shockproof? Check. Bike mounted? Check. Dahon’s BioLogic iPhone case puts your iPhone up front on the handlebars, right where you need it, and gives it enough protection that you don’t need to worry about it getting rained on or shaken to death.

The mount allows a 360º swivel, and the front membrane transmits your touches so the iPhone can still be used on the go. Legitimate uses: GPS and mapping, cycle-computer applications and music. Bad ideas: in-ride movies and Monkey Ball. Combine with Dahon’s FreeCharge iPhone and USB charger and you can go all day. Available January, $60.

Dahon Announces Waterproof, Shockproof Bike Mount [Bike Hugger]


Gadget Lab Fixed-Gear Project: The Final Stage

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First, an apology to all those who supported the Save the Massi Campaign. Your protests to protect a lovely, 1990s Italian road bike were heard, but not heeded. But in pre-emptive response to the hate mail that will surely follow this post, no bikes were hurt in the making of this conversion.

The conversion is, of course, the final stage of the Gadget Lab fixed-gear project. Despite the passing of many months, it has been surprisingly easy, and the results is a fantastically fun bike which is both light, strong and, like Derek Zoolander, ridiculously good-looking.

The final stages involved stripping all extraneous parts. Off came the back brake, cables, gears, handlebar-tape and frame-mounted brackets. The only things left are the front brake, and the addition of a new, small brake lever. On went the new wheels — Velocity Deep Vs, and on went a new, color-coordinated half-link BMX chain. Why the half-links? Read on.


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The one thing that made me reluctant to convert this bike to a fixed-gear machine was the rather vertical rear dropout. It turned out, though, that it wasn’t quite as vertical as it first appeared. It runs at a steep angle, but there are a few millimeters of front-to-back play. Enough, I thought, to allow proper chain tensioning if the chain had half-links. Two adjustment screws run through the frame into these dropouts, to allow fine adjustment before finally tightening the wheel-nuts.

Going carefully, I removed the old wheel and took a spare wheel with a fixed track hub and sixteen teeth (the chainring choice is 42 or 52. I went with 42 for easy city riding). I also unbolted the rear derailleur to give me some space, leaving everything connected for easy replacement if things went wrong. Placing the wheel as far forward in the dropout as possible, I got the chain as tight as I could. This is the reason for the half-link chain: because you can take out a single “half” link at a time instead of two links on a normal chain, you can get a much finer adjustment. you can also buy a single half-link and add it to a regular chain.

Pushing back on the wheel showed me that I had (just) enough play to make it work. I broke and connected the new chain, bolted on the wheel and set about removing everything else.

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The weight of the components is surprising, even before you figure in the rear cassette. As previously mentioned, the groupset is an old Shimano 105 setup, which these days costs around $1000 new. This version has “brifters”, or brakes and shifters combined. I gathered everything up, including cable sheaths and nipples, and put them away safely in a box. For those of you now horrified, know that an afternoon of tinkering would restore the Massi to it’s former gear-burdened glory.

After some pumping and tightening, I took it out for a spin. Over the last weeks, I have put a lot of miles on the bike, just to see if I should keep it as it was. It was never as much fun as a fixed, and I would come back from an afternoon long ride with energy to spare (for touring, a bonus, but for keeping fit, it’s a waste).

In it’s new, simpler incarnation, I love it. The feel is completely different, and as you can see from the pictures, the very steep angle of the seat-tube means it handles a lot like a track bike.

Sacrilege? Perhaps, but the point of a bike is to ride it. In its road-bike form, the Massi wouldn’t have seen much use. And if I do ever regret it, the operation is reversible. Apologies to the purists, and thanks to everybody who helped out.

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