10 Things You Must Do With Your New Windows 7 PC

If you got a new Windows 7 laptop for Christmas, you are truly in luck. But here are 10 things you need to get the most out of it.

1. Take a Spin Around the New Interface: Still glassy, glossy and damn near glittery, the Windows 7 interface is actually a major progression for Microsoft: It’s not just easy to use, it’s a whole new paradigm with the revamped taskbar and Aero Peek making multitasking with multiple windows more natural than ever.

2. Turn Off Everything You Don’t Need: While Windows 7 is missing some odd things, like a mail application, the flip side is that you can turn off pretty much every major feature you don’t want. Internet Exploder 8? Gone. Windows Media Player? Poof. And if you’re used to tweaking the crap out of Windows, you still can—a lot of the old tricks, like for manipulating context menus, still work.

3. Move All Your Crap from Your Old Machine: Windows 7 actually has pretty decent built-in powers for moving all your crap from your old and busted PC to your new pride and joy, though you need to download Windows Easy Transfer separately onto XP if you’re pulling stuff from that.

4. Master All of the New Keyboard Shortcuts: Why deal with flipping around a mouse or scribbling on a trackpad when you do the same thing in a tenth of a second with a keyboard combo? The Start key (oh sorry, Windows key), which I’ve always neglected as a useless monotasker, is supremely useful in Windows 7, as the underpinning for a metric ton of keyboard shortcuts.

5. Get It to Play Nice With All of Your Gadgets: The good news about Windows 7 is that, unlike Vista, most of your gear that worked with your computer a couple years ago with Windows should still work. And newer gear interacts with Windows in a fancy new way with a big ol’ splash graphic and easy access to all the stuff you’d wanna do with it. While even simple things, like adding a second monitor, are more straightforward now, here’s a device-by-device breakdown on getting everything to touch Windows 7 appropriately.

6. Share Stuff With Your Other Computers, ‘Cause It’s Easier Now: The networking UI hasn’t just gotten a facelift to make it more accessible, it’s actually easier to use with HomeGroups—join a HomeGroup, and all of the stuff you want to share with other computers spreads like herpes to the rest of the HomeGroup, no arduous networking required. Also, network in general—like with Macs—seems to just work better with Windows 7.

7. Stream Your Music and Videos Everywhere: Connecting your PC to a TV sounds so 1999. Well, you might not know this, but your Windows 7 PC is a badass music and video streamer, DVR, photo viewer, video aggregator and everything else you’d want out of a multimedia box, all thanks to Windows Media Center. The living room PC is legit now. Not to mention Play To, which beams music (and video and photos) to any compatible device on your network, no setup required (really!). All it takes it a right-click, and those Sonos speakers on the other side of your house will magically start yelling the Yeah Yeah Yeahs.

8. Upgrade Your Netbook to Windows 7 Home Premium: If you got a Windows 7 netbook, there’s a good chance you got stuck with the artificially gimped out Starter edition, which sucks. The cheapest way to fix this is to buy Windows 7 for $30 using a valid .edu email address, then follow our guide to installing Windows 7 on any netbook.

9. Set Up Some Network Storage: A fresh computer is a fresh start—meaning it’s a perfect time to start a new life with fully networked storage for backup, especially if you’re using your machine as a DVR with Windows Media Center. (But skip on faster drives.) One awesome option? A Windows Home Server machine, which can do backups and stream out media to all of your computers.

10. Remote Control It From Anywhere with VNC: While diving deep into the system and futzing with your network at the same time, you might as well set up a VNC server so you can control your computer from anywhere, whether it’s to pull files or schedule downloads.

That’s it from us. Share your own tips and tricks in the comments, and Merry Christmas!

How To: Make Your PC and Mac Share Stuff Like Best Friends

Networking is stupid. You’d think it’d be real darn easy to share stuff between PCs and Macs, but it’s not as nearly simple as it should be. So, here’s how to make ’em talk and share stuff like best friends.

What You Need

• A Windows PC (Linux dudes, you already know how to do this, right?)
• A Mac
• A router to connect them

Before we get into sharing between computers directly, are you sure you don’t just want a NAS?

Talk to Me, Girl

So, assuming that your PC and Mac are both sitting comfortably on your network, wirelessly or otherwise (if you haven’t gotten that far, you need more help than I’ll be providing right here), there are a couple of different ways for the various machines on your network to talk to each other and share files. Think of ’em sorta like languages.

SMB (Server Message Block) aka CIFS (Common Internet File System) is Windows’ preferred network file sharing protocol, and luckily, Macs speak it, so this how your computers will most likely be talking and sharing stuff. Vista and Windows 7 use SMB 2.0, which is mo’ faster for file transfers.

FTP (File Transfer Protocol) is one you know and love, if you’ve ever spent any time on the internet. It’s one option for sharing stuff between your Mac and PC.

NFS (Network File System) is the protocol Unix-based systems like to use for sharing files, which both Windows and Macs can understand. A lot of NASes use it.

AFP (Apple Filing Protocol) is like a secret language for Macs, ’cause Windows sure as crap don’t speak it. But from Mac-to-Mac, it’s what makes sharing just work (when it does).

Things That Will Help

My goal here is to show you how to share files between your PC and Mac easily, and for the most part, without worrying about things like IP addresses or diddling with your router’s settings. But! If you want to make troubleshooting easier—this kind of networking is more voodoo than science—there are a few things you could stand to know and do beforehand.

1. Know your router. Or really, know how to get into it. For most routers, punching the number soup 192.168.1.1 (Linksys, for instance) or 192.168.0.1 (D-Link, for example) into your web browser will take you to the router’s settings, where you can fiddle with things (which you hopefully already did to protect your network).

2. Make everything static. If you take your computer on and off the network a lot, odds are, your router isn’t going give it the same IP address every the computer jumps back on, because it hands those addresses out dynamically (you might recognize this as DHCP in action, if you’re wondering what that acronym refers to). For consistency’s sake, it’s not a bad idea to assign your computers static IP addresses on the network, so they’ll always have the same address—I at least give my desktop PC and Xbox static IP addresses—just in case something else is broken.

Look in the router settings for a reference to DHCP reservations or static DHCP, which is most likely under the general settings tab. Hit that up, like so, and you should see a list of computers on your network, along with their MAC addresses (an ID tied to the actual networking card in your computer) and currently assigned IP address (something like 192.168.1.102). If your computer’s already connected to the network and listed here, it’s real easy to give it an unwavering address on your network, a matter of a couple checkboxes.

If, for some reason, your computer’s not on the network and you wanna give it a static address, like 192.168.0.104, you’re gonna need to know its MAC address. On a Mac, just open the Network Utility app and select AirPort—it’s the “hardware address.” In Windows Vista and 7, go to Network & Sharing Center, and tap view status link next to your connection. Hit “details” in the pop up box and note the “physical address.” On XP, bring your network connections, double click the one you want, flip to the “support” tab, and hit details. It’s the physical address. Now that you have the MAC address for your computers, you can assign a set IP address to each one, that it’ll have every single time it’s on the network, which is a handy list to have.

Getting Ready

Okay, let’s get our machines ready. We’ll start with the Mac, ’cause it’s a little easier.

Mac
1. Setup a user account for sharing, either under Accounts or Sharing -> File Sharing in System Preferences. (Unless you just wanna log in from Windows using your regular Mac login, then you can skip creating a sharing account.) Click the little plus sign under users, and then you pull can a name out of your address book to use for the account, or setup a whole new one.

2. Open system preferences, go to sharing if you haven’t already, and check the box for file sharing. Click options, and enable AFP (if you’ve got other Macs you wanna share with) and SMB. Crucially, make sure the account you’re gonna be logging in from Windows with has SMB enabled.

3. To pick the folders you wanna share with other users, click the little plus sign and browse to the folder you wanna give access to. Maybe it’s your pictures, maybe it’s your whole Home folder. You’ll need to add each folder individually, especially if you wanna give different people access to different folders. (If you’re logging in from Windows with your standard Mac account, you’ll have access to your whole hard drive anyway.)

After you’ve picked the folder you wanna share, then you just pick the user you want to share with, and how much access you want them to have. Read-only, write-only or read and write.

4. Note your computer’s name on the local network. It’s sitting on top of the main file sharing setting page. And, if you’ve got AFP turned off, you’ll get this dialog, noting the IP address Windows users can access your stuff.

5. Go back to the main system preferences page, then click on Network. Go to the main connection you’ll be using, like AirPort, and click advanced. Go to WINS, and set your Workgroup to the same one as your Windows PCs (probably either WORKGROUP, on newer Windows machines or MSHOME on XP).

Windows 7 and Windows Vista
In Windows 7 and Vista, the Network and Sharing Center is where we’ll be spending our time. (Here’s Microsoft’s own guide, if you wanna check it out.)

1. First, make sure in your little path to the internet up top, you’ve got a picture of a house sitting between your computer the internet globe at the top. That means you’ve got it set to private network, so stuff’s a little more exposed to other computers on the network. If not, click customize to the right of the network name, and set it to private network.

2. In Vista, you’ll notice the big ol’ Sharing and Discovery section up front and center. In Windows 7, it’s under advanced sharing settings. Go in there, and you’ll want to enable network discovery, and make note of your Workgroup (so you can make sure your Mac is on the same one) which is listed here. Also, you have the option to turn off password-protected sharing, so that you don’t need an account on the machine set up for sharing. Obviously, it’s less secure, but if you prefer convenience, that’s up to you.

3. Now for some voodoo that’s not required, but it’ll make life easier and might be something you need to come back to if stuff isn’t working, because OS X and Windows shake hands like goons (really it’s about tweaking the LAN Manager Authentication Level, so OS X has an easier time connecting to Windows). If you have Windows 7 or Vista Ultimate, go to the Control Panel, then Administration Tools, then local security policy. Hit local policies, then security options, and look for Network Security LAN Manager Authentication Level. There, you want to switch it to “send LM & NTLM, use NTLMv2 session if negotiated.”

If you’re in Windows 7 or Vista Home Premium, you don’t have access to that, so you’ll need to registry hack it up. Open up regedit, and look for this:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\LSA\

Double click on LmCompatibilityLevel, and set the value to 1.

For more on this, just Google “vista mac NTVLM2.” (Sans period.)

4. Now, we’ll need to set up an account to share with. (Again, you can skip this if you’re just going to use your regular Windows login from your Mac, though you’ll need to have a password on the account for it to work best in Vista.) Go to User Accounts in Control Panel, then to Manage Accounts. Create a new account.

5. If you’re going to be logging in with your main administrator account, you can skip this step, since you’ll have access to everything anyway. For all other accounts, go to the folder you want to share, right-click on it and hit properties. Click the sharing tab, hit “share,” and then you can add users to the share list, along with their permissions. Windows will share it, and give you the network path where you can access it. Alternatively, go to Computer, right-click, and check out the system properties and note your computer’s name on the network and its Workgroup (make sure the Workgroup is the same as your other computers, it makes life easier).

Windows XP
XP’s interface feels pretty damn ancient when it comes to Networking. Anyways, it’s mostly the same stuff, just with a slightly uglier interface. I found this guide helpful when I was trying to remember where everything was.

1. Like before, you’ll need a user account and password setup. Go to control panel, user accounts and create a new one, if you need to.

2. Make sure you’re on the same workgroup as everything else—XP Home defaults to MSHOME, so if you need to change it, right-click on My Computer, hit properties, then go to Computer Name, and go to “Change” if you need to switch up the Workgroup.

3. Go to the folder you wanna share, right-click, hit properties, and switch over to sharing. Allow it to be shared over the network, and allow users to change files.

Sharing Stuff

Okay, if you’ve done everything correctly, and the gods are pleased, what you should see on your Mac in your Finder Sidebar under the Shared tab is your Windows computer. (Make sure Shared is enabled in your Finder sidebar preferences, or you won’t see it.) Then, you should be able to just click on it, enter your user account and password, and voila, you can get right at everything just like you hoped.

On your Windows 7 or Vista machine, you should be able to click Network, and see all of your connected computers, including your Macs. To login, as Ross McKillop points out, your username is the name of the Mac followed by the OS X username, like this, minus the quotes and period: “MATTBOOK-PRO/matt.” In XP, you’ll go to My Network Places or Workgroup, and it should be the same deal, though you can just stick to the actual Mac username and password. Life’s good.

Update: BTW, if you have Apple’s Bonjour—Apple’s zero configuration networking dealio, which powers music sharing in iTunes—installed on your Windows machines (it comes with iTunes), the discovery part of the guide above—the parts pertaining to locating the other machines on your network, should just work. That is, your Windows machines should just show up in your Finder sidebar and your Mac in your PC’s Networking page, though you still need the accounts setup properly to actually share stuff.

Sometimes, things don’t work like that. PCs don’t show up in the Finder automagically, you can’t login easily from your PC. Network discovery just isn’t always that reliable. In that case we go all manual mode. Remember earlier, when I had you note your computer’s name on the network and setup a static IP? That’s where this comes in handy. So, know either your computers names, or their IP addresses on your network.

On a Mac, it’s pretty simple. Go to Finder, tap command+k and punch in:

smb://computername or smb://192.168.X.XXX

The latter is the PC’s IP address, which should be something like 192.168.0.105—unless you have a weird setup—though the last two numbers of it will obviously vary. The computer name is easier and usually better, especially if you don’t have a static IP address set up.

It’ll ask you what volume to mount (what folder you want stuck on your Finder Sidebar under shared, essentially), and a login, and then you’re good to go. If prefer the cmd+k approach, you can add computers you tap a lot as a favorite, so you don’t have to type it in every time.

It’s pretty simple in Windows too, actually. Either in the Windows Explorer address bar, or the Run command type:

\\MACNAME\Folder or \\192.168.X.XXX\Folder

And it should give you the option to login there, giving you access to all of your stuff. Using the full address of the folder you’re trying to get to will help with making sure the authentication pop-up appears—otherwise you might just see automatically what’s publicly shared and not the stuff you’re trying to log into.

Shortcuts

Logging in every single time would be a pain in the dick, but luckily you can make shortcuts to this stuff. On a Mac, as Gina points out here, under Accounts, you can add a network share to login items, so it’ll connect every time you start up your computer. In Windows, you can either create a shortcut by right-clicking on the share, or you can add your Mac’s shared folder as a mapped network drive, so it’ll connect to the folder every time you fire up your computer.

Your Tips and Tricks

There is more than one way to tackle this particular angry bear, so if you’ve got your own tips and tools to share, please drop some links in the comments-your feedback is hugely important to our weekend How To guides.

And if you have any topics you’d like to see covered here, please let us know. Happy sharing!

Other Helpful Networking How Tos:
How to Remote Control Your Computer From Anywhere With VNC
How to Back Up All Your Stuff for Free, No Hard Drive Needed
How to Kick Your BitTorrent Addiction with Usenet

Archos 9 tablet and its Windows 7 Starter Edition unboxed (video)

Archos 9 tablet and its Windows 7 Starter Edition unboxed

It’s been a long time coming, but the Archos 9 is finally being unleashed wholesale upon the world. The 9-inch tablet has been delayed and had its price hiked, but if you haven’t leapt off the hype train yet you’ll be interested in watching the unboxing and initial impressions video after the break courtesy of UMPCPortal. The 60GB device contains a mere 1.1GHz Atom processor and has been unfortunately crippled with Windows 7 Starter Edition, lacking the cool tablet features that you might have wanted to use on a tablet device. A few times during this video the Archos is likened to the Joojoo, which will almost surely face some delays of its own before receiving a similar berth months from now. Overall it’s looking like a nice machine if you have the bank — and don’t want to do anything particularly processor intensive.

Continue reading Archos 9 tablet and its Windows 7 Starter Edition unboxed (video)

Archos 9 tablet and its Windows 7 Starter Edition unboxed (video) originally appeared on Engadget on Fri, 18 Dec 2009 06:56:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Hot Virtual Keyboard for Windows 7 is hot, virtual, multitouch

Hot Virtual Keyboard for Windows 7 is hot, virtual, multi-touch

Thought that multitouch support in Windows 7 was only good for putting twice the smudges on your screen in half the time? Here’s the app that makes all those blemishes worthwhile. It’s the 5.0 release of Hot Virtual Keyboard, which provides the ability to do mindblowing things like hold a shift key while pressing another key to make on-screen letters bigger! Crazy, right? It offers a variety of flavors, including thumb-friendly UMPC models and even a pseudo-ergonomic one, complete with comically oversized spacebar, as apparently those with bad wrists have big thumbs. It’s all hugely customizable and could make text entry on that svelte new tablet of yours a little less of a chore — if you don’t mind fronting the $29.95 entry fee.

Hot Virtual Keyboard for Windows 7 is hot, virtual, multitouch originally appeared on Engadget on Thu, 17 Dec 2009 07:24:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Understanding the Windows Pagefile and Why You Shouldn’t Disable It

As a tech writer, I regularly cringe at all the bad tweaking advice out there, and disabling the system pagefile is often a source of contention among geeks. Let’s examine some of the pagefile myths and debunk them once and for all.

What is a Pagefile and How Do I Adjust It?

Before we get into the details, let’s review what the pagefile actually does. When your system runs low on RAM because an application like Firefox is taking too much memory, Windows moves the least used “pages” of memory out to a hidden file named pagefile.sys in the root of one of your drives to free up more RAM for the applications you are actually using. What this actually means to you is that if you’ve had an application minimized for a while, and you are heavily using other applications, Windows is going to move some of the memory from the minimized application to the pagefile since it’s not being accessed recently. This can often cause restoring that application to take a little longer, and your hard drive may grind for a bit.

If you want to take a look at your own pagefile settings, launch sysdm.cpl from the Start menu search or run box (Win+R) and navigate to Advanced –> Settings –> Advanced –> Change. From this screen you can change the paging file size (see image above), set the system to not use a paging file at all, or just leave it up to Windows to deal with—which is what I’d recommend in most cases.

Why Do People Say We Should Disable It?

Look at any tweaking site anywhere, and you’ll receive many different opinions on how to deal with the pagefile—some sites will tell you to make it huge, others will tell you to completely disable it. The logic goes something like this: Windows is inefficient at using the pagefile, and if you have plenty of memory you should just disable it since RAM is a lot faster than your hard drive. By disabling it, you are forcing Windows to keep everything in much faster RAM all the time.

The problem with this logic is that it only really affects a single scenario: switching to an open application that you haven’t used in a while won’t ever grind the hard drive when the pagefile is disabled. It’s not going to actually make your PC faster, since Windows will never page the application you are currently working with anyway.

Disabling the Pagefile Can Lead to System Problems

The big problem with disabling your pagefile is that once you’ve exhausted the available RAM, your apps are going to start crashing, since there’s no virtual memory for Windows to allocate—and worst case, your actual system will crash or become very unstable. When that application crashes, it’s going down hard—there’s no time to save your work or do anything else.

In addition to applications crashing anytime you run up against the memory limit, you’ll also come across a lot of applications that simply won’t run properly if the pagefile is disabled. For instance, you really won’t want to run a virtual machine on a box with no pagefile, and some defrag utilities will also fail. You’ll also notice some other strange, indefinable behavior when your pagefile is disabled—in my experience, a lot of things just don’t always work right.

Less Space for File Buffers and SuperFetch

If you’ve got plenty of RAM in your PC, and your workload really isn’t that huge, you may never run into application crashing errors with the pagefile disabled, but you’re also taking away from memory that Windows could be using for read and write caching for your actual documents and other files. If your drive is spending a lot of time thrashing, you might want to consider increasing the amount of memory Windows uses for the filesystem cache, rather than disabling the pagefile.

Windows 7 includes a file caching mechanism called SuperFetch that caches the most frequently accessed application files in RAM so your applications will open more quickly. It’s one of the many reasons why Windows 7 feels so much more “snappy” than previous versions—and disabling the pagefile takes away RAM that Windows could be using for caching. Note: SuperFetch was actually introduced in Windows Vista.

Put the Pagefile on a Different Drive, Not Partition

The next piece of bad advice that you’ll see or hear from would-be system tweakers is to create a separate partition for your pagefile-which is generally pointless when the partition is on the same hard drive. What you should actually do is move your pagefile to a completely different physical drive to split up the workload.

What Size should my Pagefile Be?

Seems like every IT guy I’ve ever talked to has stated the “fact” that your pagefile needs to be 1.5 to 2x your physical RAM—so if you have a 4GB system, you should have an 8GB pagefile. The problem with this logic is that if you are opening 12 GB worth of in-use applications, your system is going to be extremely slow, and your hard drive is going to grind to the point where your PC will be fairly unusable. You simply will not increase or decrease performance by having a gigantic pagefile; you’ll just use up more drive space.

Mark Russinovich, the well-known Windows expert and author of the Sysinternals tools, says that if you want to optimize your pagefile size to fit your actual needs, you should follow a much different formula: The Minimum should be Peak Commit – Physical RAM, and the Maximum should be double that.

For example, if your system has 4GB of RAM and your peak memory usage was 5GB (including virtual memory), you should set your pagefile to at least 1GB and the maximum as 2GB to give you a buffer to keep you safe in case a RAM-hungry application needs it. If you have 8GB of RAM and a max 3GB of memory usage, you should still have a pagefile, but you would probably be fine with a 1 GB size. Note: If your system is configured for crash dumps you’ll need to have a larger pagefile or Windows won’t be able to write out the process memory in the event of a crash—though it’s not very useful for most end-users.

The other size-related advice is to set the minimum and maximum size as the same so you won’t have to deal with fragmentation if Windows increases the size of the pagefile. This advice is rather silly, considering that most defrag software will defragment the pagefile even if Windows increases the size, which doesn’t happen very often.

The Bottom Line: Should You Disable It?

As we’ve seen, the only tangible benefit of disabling the pagefile is that restoring minimized applications you haven’t used in a while is going to be faster. This comes at the price of not being able to actually use all your RAM for fear of your applications crashing and burning once you hit the limit, and experiencing a lot of weird system issues in certain applications.

The vast majority of users should never disable the pagefile or mess with the pagefile settings—just let Windows deal with the pagefile and use the available RAM for file caching, processes, and Superfetch. If you really want to speed up your PC, your best options are these:

On my Windows 7 system with 6GB of RAM and a Windows-managed pagefile, every application opens quickly, and even the applications I haven’t used in a while still open almost instantaneously. I’m regularly running it up to 80-90% RAM usage, with dozens of application windows open, and I don’t see a slowdown anywhere.

If you want to read more extremely detailed information about how virtual memory and your pagefile really work, be sure to check out Mark Russinovich’s article on the subject, which is where much of this information was sourced.


Don’t agree with my conclusions? Voice your opinion in the comments, or even better—run some benchmarks to prove your point.


The How-To Geek has tested pagefile settings extensively and thinks everybody should just upgrade to Windows 7 already. His geeky articles can be found daily here on Lifehacker, How-To Geek, and Twitter.

Windows 7 Starter comes with hidden wireless connection sharing

Ah, the blessings of market fragmentation. If you thought that, in its efforts to differentiate the Starter Edition from its beefier Windows 7 offerings, Microsoft chopped off the ability to share wireless connections between compatible devices, we’ve got good news: it didn’t. Turns out that ad-hoc networking is very much a part of Windows 7 Cheap Edition, and the only thing missing from it is the dialog you see above. Thrifty Edition owners will have to find the application themselves — through the shockingly difficult process of a Start Menu search — but once they do it’ll behave exactly as if they’d bought the Extra Awesome variety. Great job, Microsoft — you keep hiding features and we’ll keep installing Chrome OS on our netbooks, deal?

Windows 7 Starter comes with hidden wireless connection sharing originally appeared on Engadget on Mon, 07 Dec 2009 05:04:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Aspire Timeline 1820PT convertible twists its way onto Acer’s US site

Wanting yourself a good old fashioned convertible tablet PC? We’ve seen Acer’s Aspire Timeline 1820PT hit Australia a little under a month ago, and now the US audience is getting its first telltale sign of 1820PT acceptance. The laptop now has itself a product page on the official stateside product page. No price or release date, unfortunately, but at least we know it’s on the near horizon.

[Thanks, SaintAndrew]

Aspire Timeline 1820PT convertible twists its way onto Acer’s US site originally appeared on Engadget on Sun, 06 Dec 2009 11:12:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Windows 7 Black Screen of Death? (It’s not as bad as it sounds)

Well, maybe it’s not as bad as it sounds, but it’s still not so good. As you’re probably aware, over the last week or so Windows users of all stripes (not just Windows 7 users, as it turns out) have been complaining of a plain black screen that appears upon login — at which point the systems lock up, and… that’s it. Aside from some users getting an additional My Computer window (lucky devils) the system grinds to a halt. According to a Microsoft email that’s making the rounds, the company is “investigating reports that its latest release of security updates is resulting in system issues for some customers.” Until that time, what’s a poor PC user to do? Prevx, a UK developer of anti-malware software, has surmised that a recent Windows security patch changed Access Control List (ACL) entries in the registry, preventing some software from running properly and prompting Engadget to whip up a Bergman-inspired graphic. If your machine should find itself afflicted, Prevx has put together a fix that it claims will do the trick. Keep in mind that we don’t know these guys, so don’t blame us if it blows up your computer — or gives you the Bubonic plague. We’ll let you know when we hear back from Microsoft on this one. Good luck!

Update: Microsoft says this isn’t its fault, and that it’s likely some nasty malware to blame.

Windows 7 Black Screen of Death? (It’s not as bad as it sounds) originally appeared on Engadget on Tue, 01 Dec 2009 11:31:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Dell SX2210T vs. HP L2105tm: optical multitouch head-to-head review

Dell and HP, HP and Dell. The United States’ two biggest computer hardware manufacturers, and two of the world’s top three, have tended to match each other step for step, so it’s no surprise that Dell’s recently released SX2210T was quickly followed by a Compaq L2105tm from its closest rival. Measuring 21.5 inches each, with 1920 x 1080 resolution, 1,000:1 contrast ratio, and optical multitouch technology under their chunky bezels, these two models represent the biggest mainstream push for touchscreen computing yet. Functionally identical to standard monitors, they offer the added benefit of letting you input your heart’s urges and desires using swipes, gestures and flicks, and we’ve plucked one of each panel to see how this all plays out for ourselves. Join us after the break, won’t you?

Continue reading Dell SX2210T vs. HP L2105tm: optical multitouch head-to-head review

Dell SX2210T vs. HP L2105tm: optical multitouch head-to-head review originally appeared on Engadget on Thu, 26 Nov 2009 13:03:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Microsoft opens PC lounge in Saks Fifth Avenue for holiday season


We all know Microsoft’s feeling pretty smug — and with good reason — about Windows 7 right now. In an effort to drum up yet more hype for its latest OS, and perhaps to try and gauge customer interest in an East coast Store, Microsoft has decided to open up a cozy “PC lounge” inside Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship New York store — you know, the one that actually is on Fifth Avenue. As part of the agreement, Windows 7 will be used to drive Saks’ window displays, and opportunities will be provided for customers to interact with the new software throughout the building. The lounge itself will be populated by Windows 7 laptops and Microsoft experts, who’ll probably answer your questions in the sort of overly peppy, commercial way that makes us wonder why anyone goes to offline shops in the first place.

Microsoft opens PC lounge in Saks Fifth Avenue for holiday season originally appeared on Engadget on Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:46:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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