Hasta La Gadget!

Whether your camera is brand new or an aging holdover, you want to accessorize it, but you don’t want to pay. By now, you know the Dealzmodo Hack drill: Paying is for suckers.

For decades, photographers have engineered little tricks to get the most out of their cameras, and most of them have carried just fine over the digital divide. Here are a few, with some newer additions collected by our friends at Lifehacker.

Build your own stabilizer out of string
Shooting long exposures without something to prop your camera on is a pain in the ass, not to mention a blurry mess. So is carrying a tripod. This video shows how to build a pretty effective foot-looping camera stabilizer out of some string, a bolt and a washer. The results are surprisingly good.

Build your own L-bracket, for serious stability, vertical mounting
If you’re doing portrait photography, or have a dumpy old tripod that can’t accommodate vertically oriented cameras, you can build a sturdy L-bracket for about $30. It’s a bit more involved than the piece-o-string stabilizer, but it’s also a lot better, and much cheaper than something you’d pick up at Wolf.

The “David Pogue Special”: Use a lamp as a tripod
To round out the camera-steadying tools, here’s what I call the David Pogue Special, and it’s great: Many lampshade mounts share a diameter and thread size with the tripod mount screw on the bottom of your camcorder, point-and-shoot or DSLR, providing quick and dirty stabilization in a bind.

Scrounge up household flash diffusers
Shooting with flash indoors is often necessary, but can wash out your subjects, making them look sheet-white, greasy and demon-eyed. With a diffuser, the light is softened and the photos are dramatically improved. Commercial flash hoods and diffusers cost money, but aren’t much more effective than what you can make yourself. A coffee filter held in front of a flash, a translucent film canister with a notch cut into it, a simple piece of A4 paper or even a piece of matte Scotch tape over the flash lens will measurably improve your drunk party photography.

Calibrate color temperature with free flooring samples
Shooting a piece of paper, gray notecard or painted wall can give you OK white balance calibration, but this guy has a better idea: snag some free floor laminate samples and built a proper calibration board.

Make flash deflection umbrellas from actual umbrellas
If you really want to go pro-hobo, you can repurpose old umbrellas into flash-directing photography umbrellas. After all, there are always plenty lying around. Here’s how you do it. If you’re feeling lazy, you can even get away with just an old sheet and some tape.

Build still-life photography studio for free(ish)
Ever wonder how that creepy old photographer got such a soft, vivid, dreamy picture of you and your prom date all those years ago? This is how. The project doesn’t call for much more than large pieces of paper and tape—relying on indirect sunlight for the adequate lighting—but the results are impressive. It is just a small-scale testbed though, so you’ll be limited to shooting Lego models, action figures and the like, but what else were you going to shoot anyway?

Snap magazine-style portraits, beautiful macros with a homemade ringlight
Flickr user jedrek has written out a detailed how-to guide for converting your external flash into a ringlighting rig, mostly using kitchen wares. If you’ve never heard of ringlighting, have a look at this. The technique is usually reserved for professional photographers, because real ringflashes are comically expensive. This one costs a few bucks.

Foam-fit an old bag to hold your gear
If you’re packing a DSLR with lenses and accessories, carrying a full-fledged camera bag is usually ideal, but they’re expensive and tend to draw attention to your cargo. With some foam, cardboard and a ratty old military-surplus bag, you can put together a stylish, stealthy and highly-functional camera bag that won’t make you feel like a snap-happy father of four.

Top image of proto-pro-photo-hobo Miroslav Tichy.

Dealzmodo Hacks are intended to help you sustain your crippling gadget addiction through tighter times. If you come across any on your own that are particularly useful, send it to our tips line (Subject: Dealzmodo Hack). Check back every other Thursday for free DIY tricks to breathe new life into hardware that you already own.

It’s Christmas, and we’re betting that at least some of you received new digital cameras (be they point-and-shoots or DSLRs). And if you’re a photography n00b, we’ve got a few tips to help.

Turn On Burst Mode
It’s harder to capture candid shots on point-and-shoots (let’s call em PASs) than DSLRs, but in either format you should turn on “burst mode” or “continuous shooting.” This allows you to keep the camera taking shots as fast as it can by holding down the shutter button. Even the greatest photographers don’t predict magical moments down to the millisecond—they let their camera do it for them. And with today’s cheap and gigantic SD cards, you can afford to waste plenty of shots to get the best.

Control the Color Temperature Yourself
Auto White Balance (AWB) does a good job on most cameras. But you know who can do a better job? You. Backing up for a moment, since every color has its own relative “temperature” that’s measured in degrees Kelvin, even the orangey glow of an incandescent bulb or the relatively bluish hue of the sun’s light can screw with your photos. Your brain factors it out when you’re looking around, but it’s important to notice whether the light falling on your scene is more yellow or blue, and to compensate.
Your camera uses auto white balance to get around this cacophony of color, but it’s not always right. On some cameras, you can actually use “manual white balance” (MWB), shooting a white patch, such as a piece of paper, in order to say “THIS IS WHITE.” That’s the most accurate way, though the simpler way found on most cameras is to manually select the best white balance by choosing the tiny icon that identifies your light source: a sun for direct sunlight, a cloud for cloudy, a round bulb for incandescent, a rectangular bulb for fluorescent, etc.

Keep ISO to 400 on PASs, 800-1600 on Low-End dSLRs
ISO, a carryover term from the days of film, essentially signals the sensitivity of the imaging sensor to light. A higher number means grainier (noisier) but better defined shots in low light; a lower number means smoother shots in decent light. Most cameras will crank this number in medium to low light situations so that it can capture a shot without blurring, but you will get a grainy image. This may just be a rule of thumb based on the cameras I’ve used, but for optimally crisp shots, don’t let the ISO exceed 400 on your PAS or 1600 on your DSLR. (In some older DSLR models, you probably shouldn’t exceed 800.)
Use Diffuse Flash, Or Just Turn it Off
Any way you cut it, flash is a problem. When used instead of ambient light, it pulls the color and texture from skin, turns eyes red (a phenomenon caused when the flash is too close to your lens, which it is in most cameras) and often erases the background ambiance from your shot. A few things you can do will help tame flash:
1. Check your manual for minimum and maximum flash distances—probably around 6 to 12 feet away—and stay in those constraints.
2. Diffuse the flash. A classic trick for DSLR owners is to put a cigarette carton on large flash attachments, but in the absence of a large flash—and a cigarette carton—try taping some kind of translucent paper over your flash.
3. Turn it off. Even a grainier high-ISO shot is better than a washed-out flash explosion. If you use a tripod, you can get nice low light shots without resorting to flash or upping the ISO. Most cameras now have a flashless “night mode” to automate this process.

Carry a Pocket Tripod
Ultimately, if you want to take good shots in dark environments, you need to allow light to hit your camera’s imaging sensor for a longer period of time. And the only way to keep your shots sharp in this scenarios is to stabilize your camera. Though even cheap cameras boast image stabilizers of all kinds, a $7 pocket tripod trumps all that marketing speak, allowing you to use a solid surface to set up the camera and then angle it to your liking. If you don’t have a tripod, try resting your camera on the side of a table, or up on a (preferably empty) water glass.

Protect Your Images From Lens Flare
In any situation where sunlight or some other bright light source is hitting your lens indirectly (not associated with your subject), you may lose part of your image to stray light. Sometimes this looks cool, of course, but not always. The best and most common solution is a lens hood. The second best solution (and the one that works for PASs) is your hand, a piece of paper, anything, between that light source and your lens.

Exhale, Then Shoot
ISOs and tripods aside, maybe the best tip I’ve ever gotten to taking great shots was to exhale, then take the picture. Right after you exhale, the tension is released from your body, and you’ll find yourself, for a brief moment, at your stillest and most relaxed. In low light especially, it could be the difference between getting a clear shot and getting a blurry one.

Use Sepia Filter Whenever Humanly Possible
Sepia is well known for making your lousy photography “deep.” Helllllooo precious moments! (OK, I sort of despise sepia because it’s been so overused, but that’s just me. It can be beautiful, of course.)
For DSLR Owners…Shoot in RAW, Shoot in RAW, Shoot in RAW
There are many advantages to the average DSLR camera, but the best, by far, unequivocally, is RAW shooting. If you save your pictures as JPEGs, they can be beautiful, but they’ve been compressed and packaged into a product. If you save in RAW, you have a picture, but you also have the cold clay that shaped it.
RAW is the data pulled right off the imaging sensor of your camera, before it gets run through a bunch of optimizer and compression algorithms. This data allows for a complete do-over on many aspects of the picture, like color temperature. In other cases, it allows a lot of room for fudging, as with exposure. You’ll need software that can handle RAW images—most cameras come with something proprietary, but Photoshop can also manage RAW from the major camera brands. Just don’t be scared by it. It’s why you’re holding that shiny new DSLR you have no idea how to use.

And Your Own…
I realize this list will seem too obvious to some, but the goal is to help those who didn’t know much to start with. Since we have more than our share of incredible photographers among our readership, I’d encourage any of you with pro tips to please offer them up in comments.

[Example images 1, 2, 3, 4]

Snapture has until now concentrated on enhancing iPhone photos with software. Now, the company is doing the same thing, only with hardware. This prototype unit contains a Xenon flash, allowing the iPhone to take decent photos even in low light. The slide-on case also features an LED lamp for lighting video.

Video? Oddly, yes. Like the Snapture application, the SnaptureFlash requires the iPhone to be jailbroken to work, as the regular, unhacked iPhone won’t send a trigger signal to an external flash.

The Snapture unit runs off the iPhone’s battery, but doesn’t drain it significantly despite being around 100x brighter than an LED flash, according to company founder Bowei Gai.

The Snapture folks have shoved this flash into the patent office’s maw and are actively seeking a manufacturer. We have but one suggestion: put a close-up lens on there, too. That way you can fix two shortcomings in one.

Product page [Snapture. Thanks, Bowei!]

See Also:

• Snapture Fixes The iPhone’s Camera, Free
• Snapture 2.0: Finally, a Reason to Jailbreak Your iPhone 3G …
• Interview With the Creator of Snapture
• iFlash For Your iPhone Camera