Night Vision: Nikon D3S Shoots At ISO 102,400, Adds Video

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Nikon’s new flagship D3S has squeezed both HD video into its full-frame shooting body, but the real news is that the camera can literally see in the dark — the brand new sensor has a standard top ISO setting of 12,800 and can be jacked up to an unbelievable ISO 102,400 with the “Hi” settings.

Nikon’s D3X has turned out to be an inspired product. The 24 megapixel camera has effectively shut up the pixel-peepers and let the company focus on making a camera that actually takes great pictures instead of one which just makes giant files. The D3X is effectively a big piece of juicy meat that Nikon threw to those number-lovers and it worked, distracting them from the real innovation going on within smaller sensors.

The D3S is, as the name suggests, a tweaked D3 rather than an all-new camera. But what tweaks! The sensor is the most obvious change. The full-frame CMOS chip still captures 12.1 megapixel images, but the bigger pixels can fill up with more photons and allow the above mentioned standard setting of ISO 12,800, up from 6,400 on the D3. And if this is anything like the D3, expect that crazy number to actually give you very usable pictures — the D3 and D700 (which share a sensor) shoot almost noiseless pictures at 6400 (although dynamic range does suffer).

The extended (or “emergency”) ISO setting gains two stops, jumping from 25,600 to a staggering 102,400. Again, going on D3 performance this will remain an emergency setting, but a very usable one.

And then there is video, the big camera feature of the last year, and in this case Nikon’s first full-frame video-shooting DSLR. It shoots motion 720 x 1024 JPEG files at 24fps, and the auto-focus system has been tweaked to work better in contrast-detection mode, the one used whenever the mirror is up.

From there, we see some other welcome additions. The D3S gets a self-cleaning sensor (at last), a dedicated live-view button (its place on the top-left knob has been taken by a new quiet-shutter mode), and slightly bigger release lever for the battery compartment. A faster 9fps burst rate (11 fps in DX-mode) will now fill up the double-sized buffer in 48 frames, and there are some tweaks to the in-camera D-lighting (although if you are shooting RAW you can ignore this).

There is more, but that part of the list looks more like firmware tweaks than new features. The D3S, then, looks like a very solid successor to the already great D3. If there were any doubt that digital cameras have superseded film, it has now been blown away. In fact, film is starting to look as quaint and limited as libraries are next to the internet. £4200 (That’s $6,700, although it’s likely to be cheaper when the US pice is decided) .

Product page [Nikon]


Nikon D3s DSLR Has Night Vision With 102,400 ISO (Yes, You Read That Right)

The D3s is not simply the D3 plus 720p video recording, a la the D300s. A redesigned sensor allows it to shoot at up to ISO 102,400. Yeah, that’s a six-digit ISO.

The D3s’s sensor is an evolved form of the original D3’s 12.1MP full-frame sensor, using a different structure to improve the signal-to-noise ratio while shooting at higher ISO ratings, along with new algorithms for better image processing. The normal ISO range is 200-12,800, going up to ISO 102,400 at the top end of the expanded range.

God only knows what kind of photos it’s going to turn out cranked to that ridiculous setting. Even if you aren’t shooting anything with an ISO approaching the size of small lotto winnings, the lower level ISO settings, like around ISO 6400, should look even better than same setting on the D3. Nikon stressed that ISO 6400 and up to 12,800 would be “comfortable” to shoot at, so they are setting up some not-exactly-moderate expectations.

The disappointing news is that it shoots 720p video, not 1080, as previously rumored. (Nikon says it’s because the cam’s for photojournalists, who don’t want or need 1080p.) But video does take advantage of the D3S’s hunger for light, so the dynamic range is wide as hell with High Sensitivity Movie mode, and the D3S’s video mode is overall more capable than Nikon’s previous video-shooting DSLRs with full aperture control, faster AF in live view and a stereo input. A new algorithm also alleviates some of the weird video problems Nikon’s had before, supposedly.

Other improvements over the D3 include a bigger buffer for 2x bigger continuous bursts, automatic image sensor cleaning and faster startup and autofocus. The crop mode is changed slightly, to a 1.2x crop, instead of a full DX crop (1.3x1.5x). The body, battery, AF system and all of that stuff is pretty much the same: It’s the D3 evolved, after all, not reinvented.

It’s out in November for $5200, which is a $200 premium over what the D3 itself debuted at. It’s hard to judge where it’ll stand in the market in some regard, because Canon’s flagship pro systems are ancient at this point, making the D3s virtually uncontested for now. But we’ll see.

THE IMAGING EVOLUTION CONTINUES: THE NIKON D3S ILLUMINATES NEW LEVELS OF POWER AND PERFORMANCE FOR PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHERS

Nikon Once Again Redefines Possibilities with D-SLR Photography with Six-Figure ISO Sensitivity for Stills and Video While Enhancing Overall Performance

MELVILLE, N.Y. (Oct. 14, 2009) – Today, Nikon Inc. announced the FX-format D3S D-SLR, providing professional photographers with a powerful tool that redefines the boundaries of digital SLR versatility, while maintaining the strength of superior image quality and high speed performance inherited from the ground breaking D3. The D3S enables not only new opportunities in low-light photography, but also provides photographers with added shutter speed and aperture freedom with a base ISO sensitivity range from ISO 200 to a remarkable 12,800. Additionally, expanded ISO equivalent settings up to a staggering 102,400 are available, enabling photographers to create images previously thought impossible.

The Nikon D3S builds upon the success of the Nikon D3-the professional digital SLR that set new standards for D-SLR performance and utilizes a newly designed, Nikon original 12.1-megapixel FX-format CMOS sensor that also integrates its amazing low-light ability to High Definition (HD) video, creating a uniquely capable multi-media tool to meet the needs of a changing imaging landscape.

“When the Nikon D3 was released, it ushered in a new era of professional digital imaging. Today, the D3S will further reinforce Nikon’s leadership role in the photographic industry as a pioneer in performance-driven technologies that will again break once-rigid picture-taking barriers,” said Edward Fasano, general manager for Marketing, SLR Systems Products at Nikon Inc. “The ruggedly constructed D3S was engineered to address the real-world needs of professional photographers and provides them with a tool that, when combined with their skills, delivers stunning images in a broad range of shooting conditions and assignment requirements.”

Creative Vision Beyond the Human Eye
The Nikon D3S, with a base ISO sensitivity from ISO 200 to 12,800 makes it possible to capture previously impossible images-image opportunities which were often ignored because of low light levels. Now, in even more demanding lighting conditions, photographers can select expanded sensitivity settings of ISO equivalent 25,600, ISO equivalent 51,200 and an incredible ISO equivalent sensitivity of 102,400 which reveals detail in extreme low-light environments that challenge even the human eye’s ability to discern subject content. In addition, a setting of ISO equivalent 100 is provided.

This industry-first, groundbreaking ISO sensitivity range will make the D3S the camera of choice for photographers who typically face extreme lighting challenges, such as indoor or nighttime sports, spot news, wedding receptions and ambitious nature photography. This broad ISO sensitivity also affords the ability to shoot at faster, action-stopping shutter speeds. D3S shooters will enjoy a major advantage in any situation where light is limited and the use of supplemental lighting is not an option. For the photojournalist, even the highest ISO setting delivers image quality to satisfy the needs of offset printing.

Big Pixels Equal Greater ISO Capabilities
The amazing low-light ability of the D3S, as well as its astounding image quality can be attributed in large part to the engineering behind the newly designed, Nikon original 12.1-megapixel FX-format CMOS sensor, which measures 36×23.9mm. While the pixel size and count that served the D3 were maintained to deliver the pinnacle of image quality, dynamic range, phenomenal tonal gradation and outstanding color, other aspects were engineered to add versatility through broader low-noise ISO sensitivity. Individual pixels measure a large 8.45 microns, which support enhanced sensitivity to light and other qualities leading to superior image fidelity. The D3S captures light and renders images in a way that no other Nikon camera has yet to achieve, with a higher signal-to-noise ratio and an unmatched dynamic range for both stills and HD video throughout its broadened ISO range.

D3S adds the extra benefit of an Image Sensor Cleaning function to reduce instances of image degradation resulting from dust accumulation on the optical low pass filter (OLPF) in front of the image sensor. The OLPF oscillates at four specific frequencies to release particles that would disrupt image quality. Sensor Cleaning can be set by the user to cycle automatically when the camera is powered on, turned off, or on demand.

Share the Vision with D-Movie Creativity
Whether on the frontlines or sidelines, the amazing ISO range of the D3S can also be applied while recording HD video clips to give unprecedented low-light ability for movie clips. The refined D-Movie mode for the FX-format offers smooth 1280×720 video at a cinematic 24fps, with a new algorithm that severely reduces the phenomenon of “rolling shutter” typical to D-SLRs while panning. The motion JPEG codec allows for easy extraction of single frames from a video clip and the ability to save it as a JPEG file, while the 720p HD format eases storage, provides faster wireless transfers, and offers video files that are generally easier to use in the field. Photographers can also trim movie clips on the fly by revising the start and end points, and save the edited clip as a copy while maintaining the original. Additionally, the D3S features a built-in monaural microphone, augmented by a stereo microphone input, which is perfect for hot-shoe microphone mounting or the use of wireless microphones for interviews or spot news.

Photographers and film makers alike will appreciate the full aperture control from a wide f/1.4 to f/16, as the FX-format sensor renders low-noise movie clips with outstanding clarity, aided by the large selection of renowned NIKKOR lenses to produce a dramatic depth of field. High Sensitivity Movie Mode allows the utilization of the entire ISO range to capture otherwise hidden details in challenging lighting conditions, more effectively than cameras with smaller sensors. Now, users can benefit from available natural light for applications such as telling a story in a journalistic style in the field or to create a gritty film noir masterpiece without CGI post production. While recording, users also have the ability to control exposure, and will enjoy the added benefits of improved contrast-detect type AF while in Tripod Live View mode.

Performance and Features Defining Versatility
The emergence of the D3 in 2007 provided photographers with a unique fusion of ruggedness, speed, versatility and image quality-characteristics which the D3S now takes even further. Photographers are able to capture images at 9 frames per second (fps) in the FX-format or at up to 11 fps in the DX crop mode, while data is transferred through a 16-bit pipeline for optimal processing speed. Additionally, the buffer has been increased, enabling continuous bursts approximately twice that of the D3 in the JPEG, TIFF or NEF (RAW) formats. Files can also be captured in either 12- or 14-bit compressed or uncompressed formats to maintain the images data integrity. Photographers can also select the new 1.2x crop mode for a modest telephoto effect, while minimally impacting resolution, as photos are captured at approximately 8.4 megapixels (9 fps).

The D3S digital SLR also features two UDMA compatible CompactFlash™ card slots that can be used for consecutive recording (overflow), simultaneous recording (backup), separating recording of RAW and JPEG files or even copying pictures between the two cards. One or both can also be designated for data-heavy D-Movie recording. Images can be displayed directly from the camera to a High Definition monitor using the camera’s HDMI port and an optional cable.

The D3S features Nikon’s exclusive Multi-CAM 3500FX focus module, with 51 AF points, 15 cross type sensors and 36 horizontal sensors that easily track and lock onto moving subjects, delivering the same fast and accurate AF performance that helped make the D3 immediately successful. Users can select any of the AF points, making it easy to consistently attain accurate focus, frame after frame. Additionally, three AF-area modes – Single point, Dynamic-area AF and Auto-area AF – are available to maximize the use of the 51 focus points by selecting the most suitable one to match subject conditions. AF is also available in one of two Live View modes optimized for the studio, including a phase detection handheld mode and a tripod mode. While in Live View, the graphic indication of a virtual horizon is also available, making it easier than ever to confirm camera orientation.

To alleviate another kind of noise, the D3S also features a Quiet Shutter Mode which substantially reduces the sound of the camera’s mirror-down cycle, which is perfect for shooting in sensitive environments, such as movie sets, meetings, ceremonies, or while photographing wildlife.

Technologies Engineered for Professionals
The D3S digital SLR’s speed and performance is the culmination of many Nikon core technologies including the latest generation of the EXPEED™ Image Processing System. The latest iteration of this system is specially designed to keep pace with the D3S’ blazing performance to provide amazing image quality, faster processing speeds and lower power consumption. This advanced system is able to achieve extremely precise color reproduction for a broad spectrum of hues, in addition to vivid saturation and smooth gradation. Nikon’s advanced noise processing function is engineered to minimize noise at all sensitivities and operate seamlessly without interfering with other image color parameters.

The D3S’ accelerated Scene Recognition System analyzes information from the 1,005-pixel RGB light sensor for use in auto exposure, auto white balance detection and autofocus calculations. The Scene Recognition System also assists autofocus by tracking subject position and automatically shifts the AF points used to match the subject’s movement within the frame.

Nikon’s exclusive 3D Color Matrix Metering II assists in ensuring accurate exposures, even in the most challenging lighting conditions. Instantly evaluating each scene before capture, input data from the system’s sensor is automatically referenced against an internal database of more than 30,000 images derived from actual photographs to calculate correct exposure values. Active D-Lighting (ADL), used in combination with 3D Matrix Metering II helps to determine proper exposure, and creates realistic contrast while compensating for lost shadows and highlights. Photographers can also use ADL bracketing for up to five frames of ADL compensation.

To further enhance each photographer’s expression of personal style, Nikon’s Picture Control System allows selection of Picture Control settings including Standard, Neutral, Vivid and Monochrome. Additionally, adjustment can be made to Picture Controls to image sharpening, contrast, brightness, saturation, hue and more. Photographers then have the flexibility to save up to nine personalized Picture Controls on camera and 99 additional Picture Controls externally.

Ready for Work
Engineered for real-world functionality, the D3S is ruggedly constructed with moisture, dust and shock resistance that has become a hallmark of flagship Nikon D-SLRs, while preserving the usability and ergonomics that allow the camera to remain an extension of the photographer’s vision. Attention to detail goes so far as to include a self-diagnostic shutter system that is tested to 300,000 cycles for maximum accuracy and longevity. Rigid and precise magnesium alloy construction and the familiar form factor of the D3 extend consistent Nikon system synergy.

A bright and accurate viewfinder provides 100-percent coverage with 0.7x magnification. The body also houses Nikon’s acclaimed 921,000-dot, 3.0-inch super density LCD monitor which is viewable up to 170 degrees, and is safeguarded by a tempered glass cover. Thanks to incredibly efficient internal circuitry, the D3S can capture up to 4200* shots per single charge of the camera’s Lithium-ion battery.

System Strength Withstands the Test of Time
The D3S is fully compatible with Nikon’s Creative Lighting System (CLS) affording photographers a mobile lighting solution that is easy to manage. D3S is also compatible with Nikon’s GP-1 GPS receiver to gather information such as latitude, longitude, altitude and (satellite) date of shooting. Photographers can shoot tethered via USB, or use the WT-4A wireless transmitter to send images wirelessly when speed and mobility are essential. D3S users will also enjoy the system strength bolstered by a comprehensive selection of NIKKOR interchangeable lenses-long heralded for their optical superiority.

Price and Availability
The Nikon D3S digital SLR is scheduled to be available at Nikon Authorized dealers beginning in late November 2009 at an estimated selling price of $5,199.95**. For more information, please visit www.nikonusa.com. Users can see the new D3S, along with Nikon’s entire line of photographic, optical and digital imaging solutions, including the recently announced new AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/3.5G ED VR lens, on display at the Nikon booth (#501) at the PhotoPlus Expo in New York, from Oct. 22 to Oct. 24, 2009.

Fuji Instax Mini 7 Proves Film is Still Best – For Instant

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There are two ways to get instant photos from your camera: using either an instant film camera or a digicam with a built-in printer. However, there is only one way to get good instant photos, and that is still film.

Without testing it, we’re not sure just how good the pictures are from Fujifilm’s new Instax Mini 7. One thing we do know is that, unless somebody has seriously messed something up (replacing the lens with an piece of beer-bottle, for example), the Mini 7 will embarrass the truly awful digital Pogo from previous instant title-holder Polaroid.

The Mini 7 will remain a novelty, though, as the ISO 800, 1.8 x 2.4-inch film costs $20 for a 10-pack. When shooting, you can pick from four exposure settings (the shutter speed remains at 1/60 sec). Focus is fixed, but when things get really dark there’s a built-in flash. The camera costs $90 and is cute enough to be given as a gift. And if experience is anything to go by, it is a gift that will be used precisely ten times, until the first roll of film runs out and it is consigned, with all the other film cameras, to the junk-drawer.

Product page [Fujifilm via Photojojo]

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Giz Explains: When (Not) To Use Your Camera’s Flash

What is photography’s greatest scourge? Cellphone cameras? MySpace self-portraiture? Neither even comes close to the insidious, creeping threat that is your camera’s built-in flash. Here’s when and how you should—and more importantly, shouldn’t—use a flash.

Avid photographers, you already know the score, and this isn’t a guide for you. Nor is it for the dude with the brand-new 5D Mk II with an external flash gun, or the weekend strobist. This is a reference to be passed around as a public service; a quick guide for the aquarium-flashing, face-flushing, baby-blinding friends and family you all know and tolerate love.

When You Shouldn’t

At Large Events
Every time I go to a nighttime sporting event or concert, I see hundreds of starry flickers coming from the stands. When I see them, I die a little inside. For your average point-and-shoot, the effective range of your built-in flash is about 15 feet. You might stretch this to 20 feet if you jack up your camera’s ISO settings to 800 (or God forbid 1600), but under no circumstances will your camera’s flash reach down to the field or stage.

Every little flash you see in the photo above represents a failed photo, unless the intention was to get a well-lit out-of-focus shot of the dude sitting two rows forward. Shooting artificially lit events may be hard, but letting your camera’s automatic flash have its way won’t help. Shut it down.

Through Glass
Walk into any aquarium for a classic flash infraction: Shooting through glass. People press their cameras up to the fish and everybody goes blind. This almost never works—ever notice that giant white explosion where the fish was supposed to be? We don’t have an aquarium in our office, so I put Kyle, our new intern, in a glass conference room for a similar effect. He now has a glowing orb for an eye. Thanks, flash.

Shooting Gadgets, or Anything With a Screen
This one may be a bit of a tech blogger pet peeve, but please, turn off the flash before taking pictures of your gear, especially if it has a screen. Even the brightest, matte-est screens act as flash mirrors, as do all manner of plastic and metal finishes. It’s nearly impossible to take a good photo of a gadget with your flash on, and there’s rarely a reason to: Gadget generally won’t move unless you tell them to, so find a way to stabilize your camera and treat your subject to a nice, loooong exposure. On point-and-shoots, this usually requires nothing more than manually turning off your flash and staying in auto mode—the camera will figure out the rest.


On Anything That Isn’t Moving
Know what I said about shooting gadgets? Honestly, it applies to all inanimate objects, and even animate objects, assuming you get get them to sit still enough. Set your camera on the table, prop yourself against a tree, make an improvised monopod out of a lamp—if your subject is still, the only person to blame for not turning off your flash is yourself.


On Humans
It’s not a hard rule, but it’s a good guideline: built-in flash units emit whitish xenon light, and generally make your subject look like a malnourished villager from medieval Europe, often with horrifying red pupils. If you can help it, avoid the flash. (If you can’t, we’ve got some tips below for making your shots look less ghostly.) Photo by Flickr user busbeytheelder

In a Baby’s Face
Because as adorable as this overdramatic baby is, flashing blindingly bright light into your newborn’s pupils seems like bad parenting. And babies don’t usually move too fast.

When You Should

In Daylight
Counterintuitively, one of the only times your camera’s built-in flash is genuinely useful is when it’s bright and sunny out, and you’ve got a shadow problem. Ideally you should try to illuminate a subject with natural light, but in the event that your photo is lit from behind or above, like this here cat, knocking out a few shadows is a reasonable excuse for using flash. Why? Because the mix of ambient and flash-bulb light is much less harsh than straight flash. Photo by Hoggheff aka Hank Ashby aka Mr. Freshtags

When It’s Totally Dark
Because you have no other choice.

How to Avoid It

Stabilize Your Camera
Keeping your camera still isn’t always easy. If carrying a tripod or Joby-style stabilizer isn’t an option, you can always do it yourself. From our piece on hacking together camera accessories on the cheap:

Shooting long exposures without something to prop your camera on is a pain in the ass, not to mention a blurry mess. So is carrying a tripod. This video shows how to build a pretty effective foot-looping camera stabilizer out of some string, a bolt and a washer. The results are surprisingly good.

And another! Here’s what I call the David Pogue Special, and it’s great: Many lampshade mounts share a diameter and thread size with the tripod mount screw on the bottom of your camcorder, point-and-shoot or DSLR, providing quick and dirty stabilization in a bind.

If You Absolutely Have To

Reduce the Flash’s Intensity
Many cameras will have a setting for flash intensity. Find it. This will essentially just turn down the brightness of your flash, which will avoid overexposing your subjects’ faces, albeit at the expense of range.

Improvise a Diffuser
External flash units turn out better photos because they have bigger, better bulbs, mostly, but also because they’re often fitted with a diffuser. These accessories soften your flash’s harsh glow, but they’re both expensive and generally impossible to fit onto your mom’s point-and-shoot.

Luckily, you can fashion them yourself, sometimes in a matter of seconds. Again, from the DIY camera accessory roundup:

A coffee filter held in front of a flash, a translucent film canister with a notch cut into it, a simple piece of A4 paper or even a piece of matte Scotch tape over the flash lens will measurably improve your drunk party photography.

Tricks like this tend to take a little trial and error, but you’ll love the results. Top image via SharperFocus

Still something you wanna know? Can’t get your brother to stop flashing himself in the mirror? Send questions, tips, addenda or complaints to tips@gizmodo.com, with “Giz Explains” in the subject line.

Inside the Nobel Prize: How a CCD Works

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This year’s Nobel Prize for Physics has been awarded, with the inventors of the CCD getting recognition for the invention which enabled modern digital photography. It has taken a while: Whilst the invention took just one hour, the prize took 40 years to arrive.

The true fathers of digital photography, Willard S. Boyle and George E. Smith, invented the CCD, or Charge-Coupled Device, while working at Bell Laboratories, New Jersey. What will surprise you is that this invention was made way back in 1969, when everybody else was looking Moon-ward. The CCD was the first practical way to let a light-sensitive silicon chip store an image and then digitize it. In short, it is the basis of today’s digital camera.

The CCD was based on “charge bubbles”, an idea inspired by another project going on in Bell Laboratories at the same time. The sensor is made up of pixels, each of which is a MOS (metal-oxide semiconductor) capacitor. As the light falls on each pixel, the photons become electrons due to the photoelectric effect (the same thing that permits solar power). The photoelectric effect happens when photons of light hit the silicon of the pixel and knock electrons out of place. On a CCD, these electrons are stored in a “bucket”: the pixel’s capacitor.

At this stage, the “image” is still in analog form, with the charge, or amount of electron in the bucket, on each pixel directly corresponding to the amount of light that has hit it. The genius of Boyle and Smith’s CCD was the reading of the information stored.

Essentially, the charge in each row is moved from one site to the next, a step at a time. This has been likened to a “bucket row” or human chain, passing buckets of water down a line. As these buckets of electrons reach the end of the line they are dumped out and measured, and this analog measurement is then turned into a digital value. Thus, a digital grid is made which describes the image.

The image from a CCD is black and white, but by placing a red, green or blue colored filter over the top of each pixel, color information can be read directly from each pixel — but only for one primary color per pixel. Subsequently, software can also extrapolate the color of adjacent pixels based on their brightness, so that each pixel winds up with its own red, green and blue values. If you ever wondered just what a RAW file was, it is the “raw” color data from the chip before any of the post-processing extrapolation has been done. Cameras usually do all of this processing for you and spit out the result as a JPEG. With the RAW file you actually have all the original sensor data, which is much more information-rich.

As an interesting aside, early, primitive patterns for the color filters over the pixels soon gave way to the Bayer pattern still found in almost all sensors today, and developed by Kodak back in 1975.

Today, the CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) sensor is becoming more popular, as it reads information directly from each photo-site instead of row by row. It also uses less power, making it better suited to the multi-megapixel chips popular in modern cameras. CMOS sensors have also been around since the 60s, but their complex design, physically larger chips, higher noise and lower sensitivity meant that Boyle and Smith’s CCD triumphed, at least until recently.

But the most amazing thing about the invention is that Boyle and Smith came up with the design so quickly. With Bell Labs threatening to take the funds from their department and transfer the money to bubble memory research, Boyle had to come up with a competing semiconductor design. He got together with Smith and they came up with the idea and sketched it all out on a blackboard in just one hour. Instant photography indeed.

Press release [Nobel Prize]

Photo credit: jurvetson/Flickr


In-Car Camera Catches Careless Driving

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The pitch reads like this: “The new Car Cam Voyager with LCD is the first vehicle camera to let you see exactly what is happening in real-time while you’re driving.”

You may have thought that the windshield did a pretty good job of letting “you see exactly what is happening in real-time while you’re driving”, but the reality is that you now need a camera to do it for you. Of course, the Car Cam Voyager with LCD doesn’t aim to replace the glass window at all. Instead it is there to provide you with ammunition in the inevitable legal shenanigans that accompany auto-accidents in the US.

The camera sits on your dash (or hangs from the ceiling) and records everything that goes on — other people cutting you up as well as every red light you run. The footage comes in at 720 x 480 and is saved to a microSD card, and if you spring for 32GB of storage you’ll have space for 48 hours of video. The whole thing is powered by the cigarette lighter and unless you opt for a mount, you don’t have to do any installation.

The unit will cost $400, and this might be the thing that kills it: For $400 you can buy a regular camera, and although it won’t plug into the lighter socket, adapters can be bought. This should instead be combined with a GPS unit, thus making it a set and forget option on something you always have on the dash anyway.

Product page [Brickhouse. Thanks, Jason!]


Pro-Camera Adds Image Stabilization to iPhone

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Since the v3.0 operating system allowed applications to access the iPhone’s hardware, iPhone photo applications have switched from being after-the-fact processors to full-on camera suites, letting you do everything from capturing images to post processing to (in some cases) uploading to FaceBook and the Twitter.

The latest is the rather appropriately professional-looking Pro-Camera, which can be yours for $3. Pro-Camera offers the self-timer and digital zoom found in other applications, but it brings some rather nice new features, usually found in proper, standalone cameras.

Most successful will probably be the anti-shake, which uses the accelerometer to detect your jitters and stabilize the image. Using a similar method, you can also overlay a horizon line to keep the pictures straight, or display a grid overlay.

Some other “features” are hardly more than padding: if you have Griffin’s Clarifi, you can take close up shots (the Clarifi is an add-on lens for the older 3G which allows macro shots in any application), for example.

We are interested, though, in the “Night Images” mode, which promises to clean up low-light shots. Our guess is that this relies heavily on image processing using information form the accelerometer, or just some fancy noise-reduction algorithms.

These kinds of camera apps are exciting in a different way, too. Effectively, it has turned the iPhone into a camera development kit. How else could you buy a single camera and then be able to easily switch between various control methods and feature-sets depending on subject matter or just personal preference? We’re looking forward to a lot more of these, especially when people start making special hardware to complement them.

Product page [Pro Camera]
Product page [iTunes]

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Nikon D300s DSLR Review: Great, But Not Much of an Upgrade

Nikon’s D300s is the very same camera we loved two years ago, but with a few new tricks to try to stay relevant in this crazy video-shootin’ DSLR world we live in. Namely, 720p video.

Same Ol’ Same Ol’

The D300s remains a capable, even impressive camera. I mean, it’s not like it got worse: The D300 retains the same sensor, excellent 51-point autofocus system, fantastic chassis build quality and ergonomics—just about the same everything—as the D300, and it still holds up 2 years later, mostly.


Low-light performance is solid, as you can see in the giant sample gallery here that walks through ISO ranges. We’re talking fairly good-looking stuff up through ISO1600, though noise starts to creep in there, finally getting oogly around ISO3200. It’s no 5D Mark II or D700, but it still stands up. Color saturation remains top-notch, and it seemed to handle white balance even a bit better than 5DMkII we shot alongside it at Giz Gallery last week. Bottom line, though, you’re getting the same D300 performance. (Which means D300 reviews are still worth reading.)

So What’s New?

• 720p video recording
• Extra SDHC slot
• More Active-D Lighting controls
• Tweaked button layout

Oh Hey, Video

What’s majorly new in the D300s is video, and even it’s not a whole lot different than what you saw with the D90, which also shot 720p video (and had a similar 12.3MP sensor). But, there’s stereo input, and you can autofocus during recording—it’s god-awful slow, so you’re better off doing it your own damn self. Not to mention movies are capped at 5 measly minutes. And if you’re still in live view, you can’t actually watch the stuff you’ve just shot, since the playback button is how you adjust the display’s brightness in live view mode.

The video quality itself is good, generally, but pushing past ISO1600, it starts getting a little dicey (Brian’s shirt makes my eyes and ears hurt it’s so noisy in this clip): Beyond video, my favorite new addition to the D300s are the dual memory card slots, which were formerly a super pro feature. The extra slot holds an SDHC card, which you can use a number of different ways—continuing the storage over from the CF card, duping whatever goes to the CF card, or to save JPEGs from RAW+JPEG shooting. (Handy, since OS X and Aperture don’t support D300s RAW files yet.)

And of course, one of the best things about Nikon cameras is that since the lens mount for their SLRs hasn’t changed in about 50 years, you can use seriously vintage lenses (and save money), which is something we definitely took advantage of while shooting.

The Value Shopper’s Verdict

Here’s the thing about the D300s: It’s a great camera, no doubt. The problem is two-fold: At $1800, it costs the exact same as the D300 did when it was released two years ago, but beyond video, delivers no major advancements. There’s no new pixel-squeezing camera tech here. The other part is that the very shortly forthcoming 7D from Canon is their first direct competitor to Nikon’s D_00 semi-pro cameras, and it may make the value proposition look even less fantastic with what appears to be the most advanced video features of any DSLR yet. As it stands, the D300s is a tough purchase call (you can pick up a D300 for $150 less if you don’t need video), and certainly not a necessary upgrade. But we hope to head-to-head the 7D and D300s very soon to figure out the best camera you can buy for about $1800.

If only Nikon had just given us the D400 like we’d wanted.

Some Giz posts shot w/ D300s:
Sprint Hero Gallery
How Do You Install a 900-Pound TV?
Equivocation w/ HD
The Mighty Chew-box-a

Dual memory card slots are a huge win

Good low-light performance, awesome color saturation

Two-year-old sensor costs this year’s money

DSLR video still has a long way to go

West Point Grad Builds $300 Home-Brew Street-View Camera

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Using eight cheap webcams, a GPS receiver and open-source software, West Point graduate Roy D. Ragsdale built a rig that can do what Google’s Street-View cars do: take images of the world around it and stitch them together into panoramas. The difference? This version can be carried on your head and cost just $300 to make. The hacked-together software suite can even throw out files that can be viewed in Google Earth. Ragsdale:

Construction was straightforward. On a flat octagonal heavy-cardboard base, I glued small posts for the cameras’ clips to latch onto. I aligned each unit and then placed the USB hubs and the GPS receiver in the middle. I secured the cables with Velcro and sandwiched everything with another piece of cardboard. The whole thing’s the size of a small pizza box, weighing less than 1 kilogram. Excluding the notebook (a 2-gigahertz machine with 512 megabytes of RAM running Ubuntu Linux), the hardware cost about $300.

Ragsdale tested out the camera, which he calls PhotoTrail, by walking around Boston, holding it above his head. Then, to stress the system, which grabs sets of 1280-by-1024 jpeg files in eight second bursts, he put it on top of a jeep and drove it around his home base, West Point NY. The result? Success. The camera grabbed pictures every 20 seconds at speeds of up to 100 kilometers per hour (62mph).

Ragsdale is hoping that a tool like this could be useful to soldiers — for instance, making a visual record when patrolling dangerous routes. But it could be useful in a wide variety of civilian situations, too.

Ragsdale plans on shrinking the kit even further: the webcams can shed their bulky plastic cases, and replacing the laptop which controls the cameras with a custom-made circuit board could make it “small enough to be integrated into a headband or hat.”

You hear that, Google? Hire this guy to make you a camera and send it to me. I’ll shoot the tiny streets of my city that you left out of your Street View and send them to you. You’re welcome.

DIY Street-View Camera [IEEE Spectrum. Thanks, Erico!]

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Orbis Finally Adds Bracket to Ring Flash Adapter

orbis bracket

Enlight has finally gotten around to making a mounting bracket for its neat-o Orbis ring flash adapter. The Orbis is one of several plastic circles designed to redirect the light from the strobe you already own and give it that distinctive, flat and shadowless light characteristic of specialist purpose built ring units.

One of these, the Ray Flash, clamps on to your strobe while it sits up in the hotshoe. Neat, but also wobbly and huge. The Orbis was always a neater solution but you had to hand-hold, which is of course rather awkward.

Now, though, Enlight will sell you an aluminum bracket which screws into the tripod socket of the camera and secures the Orbis adapter. The Orbis sits under the camera, and usually you slide the flash into a the sleeve and hold it all so the donut of light surrounds the lens. As you would imagine, this makes zooming and manual focus almost impossible, unless you are some three-handed freak. The adapter bracket joins the flash to the camera and gives you a hand back, and is adjustable to fit most camera/flash combinations.

We’d argue that this should already be in the box, but instead it will cost you an extra $60. Available November.

Product page [Orbis. Thanks, Naomi!]

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