How to Tether Your Android Phone

There are three ways to tether your Android handset and get sweet internet love even where there’s no Wi-Fi in sight: the risky-but-free rooting method, the still-geeky-but-not-as-bad free route, and the $30 easy way. Here are the pros and cons of each.

Method 1: Tether Android with Apps that Need Root (Free, heavy configuration)

The Android Wi-Fi Tether application turns your phone into a Wi-Fi hotspot—essentially a MiFi—in one tap. The catch? You have to gain root access to your phone, a multi-step process that uses an unofficial Android add-on which can brick your phone if applied incorrectly. Rooting Android is doable for geeks and hackers with experience soft-modding hardware, but it’s not something most users could (or should!) do.

If you’re up for getting root access in Android, the Android and Me blog runs down how to do it. It’s a multi-step process that involves unlocking your phone’s bootloader, flashing a recovery image, and flashing an add-on to the default Nexus One firmware. Not for the faint of heart, but definitely doable if you’ve ever upgraded your router’s firmware or hacked your Xbox. Here’s a video of the process from Android and Me:


The pros of this method: it’s free and it makes your phone act as a Wi-Fi hotspot that any computer can connect to without extra software or messing with your computer’s setting. The cons: you can seriously screw up your phone if something goes wrong, and you may be sacrificing over-the-air automatic Android updates in the future. (If OTA updates cease, you can always flash your recovery image—but this just means your rooted phone requires maintenance a non-rooted phone does not.)

Method 2: Tether Android with Proxoid (Free, no root required, some configuration)

If you don’t want to gain root but know enough to get around the command line and use proxy servers, the Proxoid Android app can tether your phone for free. Proxoid turns your Android device into a proxy server that your computer uses to make internet requests. Proxoid is free in the Android market, but to get it working you have to install the Android SDK or device drivers onto your computer, tweak some of the settings, and then configure your browser to use a proxy server whenever you want to tether. Here are the installation instructions.

To connect to the internet via Proxoid, on the phone you tap a button to start the proxy server. On your Mac you enter a command in the Terminal and on Windows you run a batch file to start the tunnel, then you set your web browser to use that proxy.

The pros of this method are that it’s free and you don’t need to gain root, so it’s less risky. The cons are that you’ve got to install the Android SDK (something really only developers should have to do), and set your browser to use the proxy server each time you want to tether.

Note: Proxoid is the only method I haven’t tested myself on the Nexus One. Proxoid’s documentation is a bit rough—the Mac installation instructions are second-hand, as the author doesn’t own a Mac—and there isn’t a Nexus One-specific listing. Let me know if you’re successfully using Proxoid on your N1 and what OS you’re using.


Method 3: Tether Android with PDAnet ($30, no root required, minimal configuration)

Finally, the PDAnet Android application lets you tether Android using an app on the phone plus simple software you install on your computer.

PDAnet costs $30 if you want to access https ports (which the free version blocks). To connect to the internet via the phone, you tap a button to start PDAnet on the phone, and click “Connect” in the PDAnet on your computer.

The pros of PDAnet are that it’s risk-free, easy to use, and requires minimal setup. (You do have to enable USB debugging on your phone, which is the geekiest step it involves, but that’s just a checkbox in your phone’s settings.) The cons of PDAnet is that it requires the PDAnet software on your computer and that it costs $30.


What I’m Doing

Either I’m getting old and worn-out, or Jarvis is getting to me, because right now I’m with Chris: rooting Android isn’t a process I want to go through again or have to maintain. In that spirit of laziness, I also don’t want to have to mess with proxy servers or the command line when I tether; I want to click “Connect” and get online. So, I went with PDAnet, which was the simplest but not free option of the bunch.

How are you tethering your Android device?

Smarterware is Lifehacker editor emeritus Gina Trapani’s new home away from ‘hacker. To get all of the latest from Smarterware, be sure to subscribe to the Smarterware RSS feed. For more, check out Gina’s weekly Smarterware feature here on Lifehacker.

Remote Desktop 7 Download for XP Vista

This article was written on October 29, 2009 by CyberNet.

remote desktop 7.png

arrow Windows Windows only arrow
One of the new features in Windows 7 is Remote Desktop Connection (RDC) 7, and Microsoft decided to also offer the most of the same functionality to Windows XP and Vista users. Many of you will probably shrug this off as a pointless update, but it has something that is really useful to me. What is it?

Sometimes I Remote Desktop into one machine, and from there I have to Remote Desktop into other machines. A good example of when this might happen is if you have multiple machines in your house… you may only open one of those machines up so that it can be accessed from outside of your network. If you want to connect to other machines you simply RD into the primary one, and then from there you can access any of the other computers on your network.

The problem? If you use one Remote Desktop session inside of another that yellow/tan connection bar along the top can become tedious to use when juggling your various sessions. The more machines you connect to the more those connection bars overlay each other, and can therefore make it extremely difficult to disconnect or minimize some of the connections. You’ll often find yourself sitting there playing with the pin/unpin until the correct connection bar appears.

In Remote Desktop 7 the connection bar is now an attractive transparent blue, but what’s important is that you can slide it back and forth along the top of the window. That basically means you can stagger the connection bars for multiple sessions so that they aren’t completely overlapping each other. I’m demonstrating this in the screenshot above where I connected to one machine using RD7, and then from there connected to another machine running an older version of Remote Desktop. I’ve cropped the screenshot, but the yellow connection bar is actually in the center of the screen. I then dragged the blue bar off to the side so that it could clearly be seen.

Unfortunately the bar can still only be placed along the top of the screen (you can’t move it to the side or to the bottom), but this is still a welcomed addition. There are also a bunch of other features I’m sure some of you will love in RD7:

  • Web Single Sign-On (SSO) and Web forms-based authentication
  • Access to personal virtual desktops by using RD Connection Broker
  • Access to virtual desktop pools by using RD Connection Broker
  • Status & disconnect system tray icon
  • RD Gateway-based device redirection enforcement
  • RD Gateway system and logon messages
  • RD Gateway background authorization & authentication
  • RD Gateway idle & session time-outs
  • NAP remediation with RD Gateway
  • Windows Media Player redirection
  • Bidirectional audio
  • Multiple monitor support
  • Enhanced video playback

New features available only to users connecting from a Windows 7 or Windows 2008 R2 machine:

  • Language Bar docking
  • Remote application task scheduler
  • Aero Glass support
  • Start applications and desktops from ‘RemoteApp and Desktop Connections’

Here are the download links for XP and Vista users:

Remote Desktop Connection 7 Homepage

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Chumby One gets composite video output via marginally difficult mod

The Chumby One, much like the original, is an interesting beast. For all intents and purposes, it’s a mod-friendly box that sits on your nightstand and pushes out real-time information that it pulls down from the web. That said, the inbuilt display may be too small to be considered “glanceable” in some scenarios, and if you’re ferociously nodding your head up and down in agreement, we’ve a hack you should probably see. One xobs recently discovered that a composite video output could be added to the Chumby One, enabling it to output its information onto any display with such an input. Granted, the device can only support a single display at a time, but hey, who ever said you could have your cake and eat it too?

Chumby One gets composite video output via marginally difficult mod originally appeared on Engadget on Mon, 28 Dec 2009 13:33:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

Permalink MAKE  |  sourceBunnie Studios, ChumbyWiki  | Email this | Comments

Four Must-Read Guides For Your New Xmas Mac, PC, Smartphone or Gadget

Happy holidays, gear heads! In case you missed them, here are some helpful guides to get you and your new gift gadgets off to the right start.

The Complete Guide to Setting Up Your New Xmas Smartphone
10 Things You Must Do With Your New Mac
10 Things You Must Do With Your New Windows 7 PC
Don’t Get Screwed: A Guide to Deals on Cables and Extras For Your Gadget Gifts

How To Guides: The Best of 2009

As any diligent weekend reader knows, we don’t just find and explain the news around here, we like to do stuff; hack things; make gadgets better. Here’s the cream of this year’s how to guide crop:

Make Your PC and Mac Share Stuff Like Best Friends: Getting PCs and Macs to play nice over a home network seems like something that should be trivially easy by now; incompatibilities like that feel like a relic from the 90s. Yet somehow, after all these years, it’s still a pain in the ass. Unless, of course, you read this guide.

Totally Overhaul Your Phones With Google Voice : You’ve probably heard about Google Voice in abstract terms, and with a unified, multi-phone phone number, a web-based voicemail dashboard, free text messaging and cheap international calls, it probably sounds great. Also: confusing. Here’s how to get totally and painlessly set up with Google Voice.

Clean Your Filthy Gadgets: Look down at your keyboard. Your smartphone. Your PMP. Your DSLR. Your HDTV. Notice how some of the most expensive things you own are completely disgusting? Here’s how to clean them up on the cheap.

Back Up Any Smartphone: Smartphones do just about everything your PC used to, so why don’t we care about backing them up? We should, and in this post, we do. iPhone, Pre, WinMo, BlackBerry, Android—instructions are all there, ready to indulge your sexxxilyy cautious urges.

Make Windows 7 Play Nice With All Your Gadgets: Windows 7 is the first version of Windows that really respects the gadget hound—it knows us, it understands us, and it gives us tools. Getting your media players, phones, network devices, displays and cameras to work with Windows is easier than it’s ever been, but it’s also fairly different than it used to be. If you sense tension between your gear and your new Windows 7 PC, look no further.

Hackintosh a Dell Mini 10v Into the Ultimate Snow Leopard Netbook: From dumpy Dell to full-on Mac netbook in one lazy afternoon. I use mine everyday (for pooping!) and you will to.

Survive Boot Camp (and Run Win 7 on a Mac): Boot Camp, the Mac app that lets you dual boot Windows with OS X, works pretty well, except when it doesn’t. Matt runs us through the simplest ways to make sure your Windows 7 install goes smoothly, and how to salvage it when it doesn’t.

How To: Virtualize Any OS For Free: A great man once said, “Any sufficiently advanced virtualization software is indistinguishable from magic.” Something like that, yes! Who cares. Point is, Virtualbox is free, and it lets you install pretty much any OS within any other OS, so you can introduce your Zune to your Mac, your Word to your Linux, your Ubuntu to your Snow Pussy. Again, magic! And again, free!

Install Homebrew On Palm Pre 1.2.1There’s really no reason not to crack your Pre open for homebrew, which offers new apps, new functionality, themes, etc. Plus, software updates don’t usually break your patches, like iPhone updates do jailbreaks. The version numbers in this guide are old and the software tools a bit different, but hey, the equivalent tools still work.

Rip Your Music Like a Pro: Please, please don’t just leave your music ripping up to iTunes. Do right by your music, by ripping it as cleanly and purely as possible. It’s actually pretty easy, once you’ve got the right tools. Your ears will thank you.

Back Up All Your Stuff For Free, No Hard Drive Needed: Excuse the grotty MacBook, it’s been replaced. Which was pretty painless, because I backed up all my important stuff for free! Peace of mind, people.

Kick Your Torrent Addiction With Usenet: Usenet trolls sent me actual death threats over posting this article, which apparently threatened to ruin their top-secret file haven (did you jerks know I went on the radio with this thing? Ha!) So it with it with the utmost glee that I backlink here. Usenet is awesome—faster than just about anything else, and full of sweet, sweet filezs. Here’s how you, person who doesn’t really know what Usenet is, can be saturdating your internet connection within an hour.

Bake Your Own Chrome OS, Right Now: You can actually download the real Chrome now, so it wouldn’t really make much sense to follow this guide today. But it’s worth a read, if just to see how close Chrome matched our sad, modest expectations. To the people who said they hope Chrome is nothing like the imagined version in this post: oh well!

Install Windows Mobile 6.5 Right Now: A lot of newer Windows Mobile phones have official updaters, so you can bring your handset up to speed without resorting to hacks. Older ones, though, don’t. The ROMs will be different that listed in this guide—better, now—but the process still works.

Calibrate Your Turntable For the Best Possible Sound: Because having a poorly calibrated turntable is more damaging to your audiophile cred than not having one at all.

Manage An All-Lossless Music Library With iTunes: From a music listener’s standpoint, lossless music is the way to go. From a person-who-has-to-use-iTunes-because-that’s-just-how-things-are-nowadays’ standpoint, it doesn’t. Luckily, it is possible to make iTunes and a lossless library play nice.

Remote Control Your Home Computer From Anywhere With VNC: VNC, light of my life, fire of my loins. My sin, my soul. Vee-Enn-See: the tip of the tongue taking a trip of three steps down the palate to tap, at three, on the teeth. Vee. Enn. See.

Use BitTorrent Like a Pro: It’s embarrassing to admit that you don’t know how to use torrents properly in this day in age, but let’s face it—most people don’t. Give them this guide! Or use it yourself, discreetly.

Create Stunningly Realistic High Dynamic Range Photographs: Love them or hate them, high dynamic range (HDR) photos are something any good photographer should know how to take. Ex Gizzer Johnathan Mahoogles lays down the steps to snapping hyperreal photos, one by one.

Rip Blu-ray Discs: Optical media is dead! Well, it should be. Here’s how to help kill it, by ripping your entire Blu-ray collection to your PC where it belongs.

Hackintosh a Dell Mini 9 Into the Ultimate OS X Netbook: Remember that Dell 10v hackintosh guide up above? This is that, except for the older, more popular Dell Mini 9.

Install Ubuntu On Your PS3 For Vintage Gaming Emulation: So your PS3 can run Linux, BFD. But what the really means is that your PS3 can play pretty much any vintage game, ever, through emulators. It’s all about phrasing!

Add Wi-Fi To Your Xbox 360 Smartly and Cheaply: I was really hoping this guide would be obsolete by now, but man, Xbox wireless adapters are still way, way too expensive. Buying and bridging an entire router, as described here, is still a better deal.

So that’s about it (for this year)! Let us know in the comments if there’s anything you’d like to see in 2010. Happy holidays, folks.

The Complete Guide to Setting Up Your New Xmas Smartphone

The moment you unpackage a new smartphone is a magical one. Don’t let the moment right after that, when you realize that it’s practically useless out of the box, cancel that out. Here’s everything you need to know:

What You Need to Buy

There are plenty of smartphone accessories that are worth considering, and a few that you actually need. Proceed with caution, but don’t be afraid to treat your new smartphone, and yourself, to a few goodies.

A Case: They look goofy, Jason hates them, and they screw with your device’s carefully designed curves. But here’s the thing: smartphones are fragile. They aren’t like dumbphones, and a single fall—especially with devices with a glass screen—can poop all over your new smartphone party. Until you’re trained, play it safe. Wrap your unit. Case brand isn’t important, so just take your pick from your local Best Buy or wherever. Just make sure your device’s corners are covered, because it’s edge impacts that break the most glass. Just remember, you’re stuck in a multi-thousand dollar contract with this device, which itself would costs hundreds of dollars to replace. It’s actually kind of terrifying! Pretend it’s a baby, if that helps.

Headphones: Your smartphone is now your primary media player, too, so you’re going to need to ditch the headphones or headset it came with. Yes, they all suck; no, your phone’s aren’t the one exception. If you don’t care about a microphone, treat yourself to a decent pair of in-ear headphones. If you do, get a midrange wired headset.

Storage: Phones either come with internal storage, like the Pre or the iPhone, or taunt you with “expandable” storage, which pretty much means they’ve got an empty microSD slot. If your phone comes with less than 2GB of space and has said slot, you need to fill it. Buying a microSD card is a little different than buying a regular SD card, because speed doesn’t really matter, and nothing you’re using your phone demands particularly high transfer speeds. This is a place to store your music, photos and videos—that’s it. Buy these online, where branded 8GB cards regularly dip below $20—in stores, you’ll pay much, much more. Also, don’t worry too much about getting a full-sized SD adapters, as pictured above. Most phones will allow you to mount your smartphone’s microSD card as mass storage when they’re plugged into a computer, so removal is rarely necessary.

Cables: Pick up a spare charging cable for your phone. For most smartphones this is a simple mini/microUSB cable, while for iPhones it’s an iPod dock connector. Why worry about the spare? Think of it this way: if you lose your only iPod cable, you can’t listen to music until you buy another one. If you lose your only iPhone cable, you’re out of touch with the rest of the world in a matter of hours.

What You Don’t

Of course, the temptation of new accessories is great, and there are legions of companies waiting to seize on your post-transactional bliss. When buying smartphone accessories, proceed with caution.

A dock: Again, people have a tendency to confuse their PMPs with their phones, which may look and act similar, but are used in a completely different way. Unless you want to dock your smartphone near your bed to use as an alarm, it’s going to be charging—and syncing—with your computer whenever it’s not in your pocket. An impulse-purchased dock will, in all likelihood, live a lonely life. Don’t let this sad thing happen!

A branded navigation mount: These are almost always overpriced, and all they really do is hold your phone in your line of sight. Just buy a dirt-cheap windshield or dash mount, buy a 12v DC converter to plug your USB charging cable into, and you’ve got all the functionality you need for about $20.

Cleaning Kits: Cleaning your smartphone isn’t hard, and it shouldn’t cost you much at all. Just follow our instructions, and avoid any smartphone-specific cleaning kits. They’re a guaranteed waste.

Bluetooth anything: Bluetooth headsets can make anyone look like a dweebish soccer dad, and while they might make chatting on the phone while driving more legal, they don’t really make it much safer. Just hold your phone like a normal human, put it on speakerphone, or take the call later. You should avoid Bluetooth headphones too, but for a different reason: they suck. They sound terrible, they’ll drain your phone’s battery and they’re overpriced. If you have to buy a pair, spend as little as possible.

Getting Started

If your smartphone is a newborn, this is where we teach it to walk.

Contacts: Somehow, in over two decades of cellphone development, we haven’t settled on a simple way to transfer contacts from one phone to another. Here’s how you should proceed through this somehow-still-painful process:
• Get your carrier to do it. If you’re upgrading handsets on one carrier, they should be able to transfer your contacts, and probably for free. If you’re switching carriers, there may be a small fee. Don’t spend more than five bucks.
• Use your SIM. Are you on AT&T or T-Mobile? Is your smartphone on the same carrier as your old dumbphone? Most phones will have an option to write all contacts to a SIM card, which is the little chip that your phone uses to identify itself on a cell network. Do this, pop your old card out, pop it into your new smartphone, and transfer all your contacts from the old SIM onto your new phone’s memory. Sadly, this won’t work with Verizon or Sprint phones, which are CDMA-based, and therefore don’t have SIM cards at all.
• Google Sync. Through a protocol called SyncML, Google Sync supports quite a few features phones, and can pull all your contacts into your Google account. Your new smartphone can then yank them back down from the cloud. Bonus: they’re now backed up to Google server’s, too.

Email: Email, you’ll find, is one of the best things about owning a smartphone. Setting up your email varies from smartphone to smartphone (iPhone, Android, Palm Pre, Windows Mobile) and service to service (Exchange and Gmail setups will be completely different, obvious) but there are few rules of thumb to keep in mind during account setup. For example, use IMAP (versus POP) whenever you can—this will keep your messages and their read/unread statuses in sync with your desktop clients. And since most of your email downloading will be happening over 3G, set the individual message size limit at or below about 10kb. This will ensure your messages come in quickly, but also that you have something to read once they arrive.

Calendars: If you keep a Google Calendar, having it sync with your smartphone is a revelation. Android phones will automatically sync with your default Google account’s calendars, as will the Pre, while the iPhone will need to be configured with CalDav. If you don’t keep a calendar, your new smartphone is a good excuse to start.

Media and Syncing: Most smartphones rely on some kind of desktop software to transfer personal info, music, video and photos to and from the handset. For the iPhone, this basically means downloading iTunes—which you have to do anyway. For BlackBerry, this means downloading BlackBerry Desktop Manager. Windows Mobile phones are best served by Windows Device Center, while Android and Palm phones—and optionally Windows Phones, iPhones and BlackBerrys—play nice with doubleTwist, a cross-platform music player/media syncing app.

Converting Video: You can’t just copy your torrented videos or home movies over to your smartphone; you need to downsample those videos, stat. Just download Handbrake for this—it’s basically magic, and it works on Windows, OS X and Linux. These instructions are iPhone-centric, but videos converted to 320×240 h.264 will be suitable for most new smartphones.

Apps! Apps! Apps! Apps!

Without apps, smartphones are nothing. With apps, they’re practically anything. Every smartphone platform has an app storefront now, from Apple’s pioneering App Store to BlackBerry’s App World to the Android Market, and they’re all, to different extents, treasure troves.

iPhone: First stop, Gizmodo’s Essential iPhone Apps Directory. These are the best of the best, and everything you need to make your iPhone into a mobile powerhouse. If you’re averse to spending money on your new iPhone—this thing wasn’t cheap, after all—check out our Essential Free Apps. We do regular posts and weekly roundups around here too, so just keep an eye out.

Android: It’s got the second best app selection, which is to say there’s some really great stuff out there. Our Essential Android Apps roundup cuts through the noise of the App Market, while our monthly roundups keep you up to date with the latest additions to the store.

BlackBerry: We cover the biggest new additions to App World, but it’s best to defer to a specialist site like CrackBerry for this one—they have their own app store too, which isn’t really much better or worse than BlackBerry’s janky official shop.

Palm: We’ve just pulled one of our patented “Essential” roundups fresh out of the oven, so consult that first. Beyond that, PreCentral’s official app reviews are fairly fantastic. Also worth checking out is their extensive homebrew app gallery, which has about as many decent apps in it as the official Catalog.

Windows Mobile: App development for WinMo isn’t exactly picking up nowadays but there’s a tremendous backlog of useful reviews and materials at WMPowerUser, WMExperts, XDA and MoDaCo. And yeah, we occasionally still do Windows Mobile app roundups, though until things get exciting again, expect less, not more.

Living Happily Ever After

Lastly, a few odds and ends to make sure your metal’n’plastic darling lives a happy life, at least before the end of its two-year contract.

How to back up your smartphone: Your smartphone probably contains as much personal data as your computer, and it’s subjected to way more physical risk. Preempt the pain. Back it up.

How to keep you smartphone clean: These little machines are fantastic at collecting fingerprints, dust and grime. Wipe them off every once in a while.

Any other tips for new smartphone owners? Chuck them down in the comments. Happy Holidays!

Easily Convert Movies to iPhone or iPod MP4 Format

This article was written on January 08, 2009 by CyberNet.

iPodME.pngarrow Windows Windows only arrow
The other day Ward pointed out in the comments a simple little application that’s available for Windows users who are looking to convert movies to a video format that the iPhone and iPods can play. We talked about being able to do this using the SUPER video converter, but a lot of you are probably just wanting to go from AVI to MP4. If that’s the case the iPodME program is just what you need.

You can see in the screenshot to the right why there is little confusion about how to use this program. You simply drag and drop the movies into the application that you’re looking to convert, choose from the options available on the screen, and let it do its thing.

Here are some of the reasons why I love iPodME:

  • Simple interface means you don’t have to fuss with options you probably wouldn’t change anyway
  • The program requires no installation, and the single executable is under 3MB in size
  • You can start converting one video, and at the same time continue to add more files to the list
  • Choose from different profiles that target the speed of conversion, quality, and size of output
  • Shutdown the computer after encoding is done (great for overnight processing)
  • It’s free!

This is definitely an application you should try out if you enjoy watching videos on your iPhone or iPod. And in case you’re wondering about performance it took me around 35 minutes to convert a 2-hour (700MB) AVI movie on my Pentium-D machine. That’s pretty darn good!

iPodMe Homepage

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How To: Make Your PC and Mac Share Stuff Like Best Friends

Networking is stupid. You’d think it’d be real darn easy to share stuff between PCs and Macs, but it’s not as nearly simple as it should be. So, here’s how to make ’em talk and share stuff like best friends.

What You Need

• A Windows PC (Linux dudes, you already know how to do this, right?)
• A Mac
• A router to connect them

Before we get into sharing between computers directly, are you sure you don’t just want a NAS?

Talk to Me, Girl

So, assuming that your PC and Mac are both sitting comfortably on your network, wirelessly or otherwise (if you haven’t gotten that far, you need more help than I’ll be providing right here), there are a couple of different ways for the various machines on your network to talk to each other and share files. Think of ’em sorta like languages.

SMB (Server Message Block) aka CIFS (Common Internet File System) is Windows’ preferred network file sharing protocol, and luckily, Macs speak it, so this how your computers will most likely be talking and sharing stuff. Vista and Windows 7 use SMB 2.0, which is mo’ faster for file transfers.

FTP (File Transfer Protocol) is one you know and love, if you’ve ever spent any time on the internet. It’s one option for sharing stuff between your Mac and PC.

NFS (Network File System) is the protocol Unix-based systems like to use for sharing files, which both Windows and Macs can understand. A lot of NASes use it.

AFP (Apple Filing Protocol) is like a secret language for Macs, ’cause Windows sure as crap don’t speak it. But from Mac-to-Mac, it’s what makes sharing just work (when it does).

Things That Will Help

My goal here is to show you how to share files between your PC and Mac easily, and for the most part, without worrying about things like IP addresses or diddling with your router’s settings. But! If you want to make troubleshooting easier—this kind of networking is more voodoo than science—there are a few things you could stand to know and do beforehand.

1. Know your router. Or really, know how to get into it. For most routers, punching the number soup 192.168.1.1 (Linksys, for instance) or 192.168.0.1 (D-Link, for example) into your web browser will take you to the router’s settings, where you can fiddle with things (which you hopefully already did to protect your network).

2. Make everything static. If you take your computer on and off the network a lot, odds are, your router isn’t going give it the same IP address every the computer jumps back on, because it hands those addresses out dynamically (you might recognize this as DHCP in action, if you’re wondering what that acronym refers to). For consistency’s sake, it’s not a bad idea to assign your computers static IP addresses on the network, so they’ll always have the same address—I at least give my desktop PC and Xbox static IP addresses—just in case something else is broken.

Look in the router settings for a reference to DHCP reservations or static DHCP, which is most likely under the general settings tab. Hit that up, like so, and you should see a list of computers on your network, along with their MAC addresses (an ID tied to the actual networking card in your computer) and currently assigned IP address (something like 192.168.1.102). If your computer’s already connected to the network and listed here, it’s real easy to give it an unwavering address on your network, a matter of a couple checkboxes.

If, for some reason, your computer’s not on the network and you wanna give it a static address, like 192.168.0.104, you’re gonna need to know its MAC address. On a Mac, just open the Network Utility app and select AirPort—it’s the “hardware address.” In Windows Vista and 7, go to Network & Sharing Center, and tap view status link next to your connection. Hit “details” in the pop up box and note the “physical address.” On XP, bring your network connections, double click the one you want, flip to the “support” tab, and hit details. It’s the physical address. Now that you have the MAC address for your computers, you can assign a set IP address to each one, that it’ll have every single time it’s on the network, which is a handy list to have.

Getting Ready

Okay, let’s get our machines ready. We’ll start with the Mac, ’cause it’s a little easier.

Mac
1. Setup a user account for sharing, either under Accounts or Sharing -> File Sharing in System Preferences. (Unless you just wanna log in from Windows using your regular Mac login, then you can skip creating a sharing account.) Click the little plus sign under users, and then you pull can a name out of your address book to use for the account, or setup a whole new one.

2. Open system preferences, go to sharing if you haven’t already, and check the box for file sharing. Click options, and enable AFP (if you’ve got other Macs you wanna share with) and SMB. Crucially, make sure the account you’re gonna be logging in from Windows with has SMB enabled.

3. To pick the folders you wanna share with other users, click the little plus sign and browse to the folder you wanna give access to. Maybe it’s your pictures, maybe it’s your whole Home folder. You’ll need to add each folder individually, especially if you wanna give different people access to different folders. (If you’re logging in from Windows with your standard Mac account, you’ll have access to your whole hard drive anyway.)

After you’ve picked the folder you wanna share, then you just pick the user you want to share with, and how much access you want them to have. Read-only, write-only or read and write.

4. Note your computer’s name on the local network. It’s sitting on top of the main file sharing setting page. And, if you’ve got AFP turned off, you’ll get this dialog, noting the IP address Windows users can access your stuff.

5. Go back to the main system preferences page, then click on Network. Go to the main connection you’ll be using, like AirPort, and click advanced. Go to WINS, and set your Workgroup to the same one as your Windows PCs (probably either WORKGROUP, on newer Windows machines or MSHOME on XP).

Windows 7 and Windows Vista
In Windows 7 and Vista, the Network and Sharing Center is where we’ll be spending our time. (Here’s Microsoft’s own guide, if you wanna check it out.)

1. First, make sure in your little path to the internet up top, you’ve got a picture of a house sitting between your computer the internet globe at the top. That means you’ve got it set to private network, so stuff’s a little more exposed to other computers on the network. If not, click customize to the right of the network name, and set it to private network.

2. In Vista, you’ll notice the big ol’ Sharing and Discovery section up front and center. In Windows 7, it’s under advanced sharing settings. Go in there, and you’ll want to enable network discovery, and make note of your Workgroup (so you can make sure your Mac is on the same one) which is listed here. Also, you have the option to turn off password-protected sharing, so that you don’t need an account on the machine set up for sharing. Obviously, it’s less secure, but if you prefer convenience, that’s up to you.

3. Now for some voodoo that’s not required, but it’ll make life easier and might be something you need to come back to if stuff isn’t working, because OS X and Windows shake hands like goons (really it’s about tweaking the LAN Manager Authentication Level, so OS X has an easier time connecting to Windows). If you have Windows 7 or Vista Ultimate, go to the Control Panel, then Administration Tools, then local security policy. Hit local policies, then security options, and look for Network Security LAN Manager Authentication Level. There, you want to switch it to “send LM & NTLM, use NTLMv2 session if negotiated.”

If you’re in Windows 7 or Vista Home Premium, you don’t have access to that, so you’ll need to registry hack it up. Open up regedit, and look for this:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\LSA\

Double click on LmCompatibilityLevel, and set the value to 1.

For more on this, just Google “vista mac NTVLM2.” (Sans period.)

4. Now, we’ll need to set up an account to share with. (Again, you can skip this if you’re just going to use your regular Windows login from your Mac, though you’ll need to have a password on the account for it to work best in Vista.) Go to User Accounts in Control Panel, then to Manage Accounts. Create a new account.

5. If you’re going to be logging in with your main administrator account, you can skip this step, since you’ll have access to everything anyway. For all other accounts, go to the folder you want to share, right-click on it and hit properties. Click the sharing tab, hit “share,” and then you can add users to the share list, along with their permissions. Windows will share it, and give you the network path where you can access it. Alternatively, go to Computer, right-click, and check out the system properties and note your computer’s name on the network and its Workgroup (make sure the Workgroup is the same as your other computers, it makes life easier).

Windows XP
XP’s interface feels pretty damn ancient when it comes to Networking. Anyways, it’s mostly the same stuff, just with a slightly uglier interface. I found this guide helpful when I was trying to remember where everything was.

1. Like before, you’ll need a user account and password setup. Go to control panel, user accounts and create a new one, if you need to.

2. Make sure you’re on the same workgroup as everything else—XP Home defaults to MSHOME, so if you need to change it, right-click on My Computer, hit properties, then go to Computer Name, and go to “Change” if you need to switch up the Workgroup.

3. Go to the folder you wanna share, right-click, hit properties, and switch over to sharing. Allow it to be shared over the network, and allow users to change files.

Sharing Stuff

Okay, if you’ve done everything correctly, and the gods are pleased, what you should see on your Mac in your Finder Sidebar under the Shared tab is your Windows computer. (Make sure Shared is enabled in your Finder sidebar preferences, or you won’t see it.) Then, you should be able to just click on it, enter your user account and password, and voila, you can get right at everything just like you hoped.

On your Windows 7 or Vista machine, you should be able to click Network, and see all of your connected computers, including your Macs. To login, as Ross McKillop points out, your username is the name of the Mac followed by the OS X username, like this, minus the quotes and period: “MATTBOOK-PRO/matt.” In XP, you’ll go to My Network Places or Workgroup, and it should be the same deal, though you can just stick to the actual Mac username and password. Life’s good.

Update: BTW, if you have Apple’s Bonjour—Apple’s zero configuration networking dealio, which powers music sharing in iTunes—installed on your Windows machines (it comes with iTunes), the discovery part of the guide above—the parts pertaining to locating the other machines on your network, should just work. That is, your Windows machines should just show up in your Finder sidebar and your Mac in your PC’s Networking page, though you still need the accounts setup properly to actually share stuff.

Sometimes, things don’t work like that. PCs don’t show up in the Finder automagically, you can’t login easily from your PC. Network discovery just isn’t always that reliable. In that case we go all manual mode. Remember earlier, when I had you note your computer’s name on the network and setup a static IP? That’s where this comes in handy. So, know either your computers names, or their IP addresses on your network.

On a Mac, it’s pretty simple. Go to Finder, tap command+k and punch in:

smb://computername or smb://192.168.X.XXX

The latter is the PC’s IP address, which should be something like 192.168.0.105—unless you have a weird setup—though the last two numbers of it will obviously vary. The computer name is easier and usually better, especially if you don’t have a static IP address set up.

It’ll ask you what volume to mount (what folder you want stuck on your Finder Sidebar under shared, essentially), and a login, and then you’re good to go. If prefer the cmd+k approach, you can add computers you tap a lot as a favorite, so you don’t have to type it in every time.

It’s pretty simple in Windows too, actually. Either in the Windows Explorer address bar, or the Run command type:

\\MACNAME\Folder or \\192.168.X.XXX\Folder

And it should give you the option to login there, giving you access to all of your stuff. Using the full address of the folder you’re trying to get to will help with making sure the authentication pop-up appears—otherwise you might just see automatically what’s publicly shared and not the stuff you’re trying to log into.

Shortcuts

Logging in every single time would be a pain in the dick, but luckily you can make shortcuts to this stuff. On a Mac, as Gina points out here, under Accounts, you can add a network share to login items, so it’ll connect every time you start up your computer. In Windows, you can either create a shortcut by right-clicking on the share, or you can add your Mac’s shared folder as a mapped network drive, so it’ll connect to the folder every time you fire up your computer.

Your Tips and Tricks

There is more than one way to tackle this particular angry bear, so if you’ve got your own tips and tools to share, please drop some links in the comments-your feedback is hugely important to our weekend How To guides.

And if you have any topics you’d like to see covered here, please let us know. Happy sharing!

Other Helpful Networking How Tos:
How to Remote Control Your Computer From Anywhere With VNC
How to Back Up All Your Stuff for Free, No Hard Drive Needed
How to Kick Your BitTorrent Addiction with Usenet

Take Screenshots in Firefox

This article was written on October 30, 2007 by CyberNet.

Fireshot for Firefox
Click to Enlarge

We take a lot of screenshots in a day’s time, and a good majority of them are of websites being displayed within our browser. Instead of needing to use an external application to snap the screenshots why not get an extension for Firefox that includes an incredible editor!

Fireshot is a relatively large extension (in terms of filesize) for Firefox that has just about everything you need. With it you can capture an entire website, including the area that you need to scroll to see, or you can just have it capture what you’re currently viewing.

After a screenshot has been captured you’ll be able to annotate the screenshot, crop it, and even blur/gray out an area. In the screenshot that I took above I had applied the blur and grayed out effects to the area around the article’s body in an effort to make the article itself standout.

After you’re done with a screenshot you can save it to your computer (PNG, JPEG, or BMP formats), copy it to the clipboard, email it, or send it to an external image editor.

Fireshot Homepage
Fireshot Video Demonstration
[via Mozilla Links]

Copyright © 2009 CyberNet | CyberNet Forum | Learn Firefox

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CyberNotes: Placing the Tab-Bar on the Side in Firefox and Opera

This article was written on May 23, 2007 by CyberNet.

CyberNotes
Web Browser Wednesday

I’m one of those people who doesn’t know what they would do if their Web browser didn’t have tabs. The problem is that I am a tabaholic and always seem to have 20+ Tabs open at any one given time. As you can imagine, I am often left with very little room for each tab, andfind myself clicking through them all when I’m looking for something. Well, that’s how it was until I decided to put my tabs on the side of my browser.

All of the monitors that I have on both my desktops and laptops are widescreen, giving me extra screen space in the horizontal direction. Because of this extra space I have started to place things like my Windows Taskbar on the side, and that’s when I thought to put my tabs on the side as well.

It’s actually pretty easy to do…

—Firefox—

There is no option in Firefox to move the tab-bar to the side, so the first place I turned was to the extensions. It took a little bit of work but I was able to find an extension called Vertigo which was recently updated to work with Firefox 2. By default the extension is designed to place the tabs on the left side of the screen while still allowing normal operations, such as the rearranging of tabs:

Firefox Sidebar

I also noticed that the extension had a few options, including one to adjust the width of the bar:

Firefox Sidebar

Then I saw that the developer commented saying that the problems with TabMixPlus were also fixed, so I decided to try that out as well. One of the cool things that I stumbled across when playing with various tab-bar settings was that changing the tab-bar position to “bottom” in TabMixPlus would position the tab-bar on the right-side of the browser if Vertigo was installed:

Firefox Sidebar

I also noticed that TabMixPlus took control of the width, but that could easily be changed in the settings:

Firefox Sidebar

Personally, I prefer to have it on the right-side because I keep by bookmarks open in a sidebar on the left-side. It just feels weird if you have two sidebars immediately next to each other.

I also tried having TabMixPlus put close buttons on each of the tabs, but that didn’t work out so well. If having a close button on each tab is an important feature for you then you probably shouldn’t try this out.

—Opera—

Opera is a slightly different story because it already has this feature built-in. All you have to do is right-click on any of your open tabs and click the Customize option. You should now see a screen where you can select the positioning from the Placement drop-down list:

Opera Tabs in Sidebar

After you click the OK button, the tab-bar should be in its new position:

Opera Tabs in Sidebar

 

—Overview—

If you don’t have a widescreen monitor this might not be as beneficial to you since it can take up some valuable screen space. Feel free to checkout our other post on reducing tab clutter if you’re looking for more space-saving techniques.

Copyright © 2009 CyberNet | CyberNet Forum | Learn Firefox

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