Phantom Lapboard Review

The Phantom Lapboard is one of those fabled legends of the gadget world, a keyboard and mouse that you can use comfortably on a couch—in the making since 2004.

Phantom was kind enough to send us the first final production unit off of the line—preorder shipments should be fulfilled starting Feb 20th. It’s unfair to judge any product with higher standards only because of funding and manufacturing delays—even if the Phantom Lapboard is the Duke Nukem Forever of the keyboard world. But despite these delays and issues, there’s still no clone or ripoff to compare it to.

Phantom’s pitch is a wireless, ambidextrous keyboard that can be used via lap for a home theater PC with a full-sized mouse. The keyboard itself pivots vertically, lifting the keys from the platform on your lap to make room for a mouse, while simultaneously spinning 360 degrees horizontally so that it works for righties and lefties.

In use, the lapboard functions as promised. It synced instantly to both my PS3 and Mac through a 2.4GHz USB dongle (though, I should mention, I had left mouse button recognition issues on the PS3). The keyboard locks after a gentle tilt, and you can actually spin it round and round indefinitely…which can be addictive.
Typing, however, is a bit more problematic than I expected. It’s certainly possible, and the keys are clicky and responsive. But the keyboard tilts a bit too much for my taste (a full 22 degrees) and I found myself typing with one hand uncomfortably higher than the other. I wish there were two tilt settings—one that would just fit your mouse hand under it, and one with a little more clearance. That said, a few hours of hands-on gaming would probably put you more at ease with the design.


To tilt the keyboard back down, you push in on a semi-awkward rubber latch.
The mouse has a subtler style than you’d expect to see with a hardcore PC peripheral, with a one-piece plastic top creating two buttons with perfect resistance. (There’s also a clicking scroll wheel.) It’s rated at some insane DPI—it felt accurate enough—but there’s one downfall to gamers. The board for the mouse is just too slippery. At the slightest angle on your lap, the mouse will literally slide off. I’m actually tempted to sand the plastic or add new pads to the mouse because this very small (overlooked?) detail makes the lapboard far less pleasant to use.
I find the Phantom Lapboard’s $130 asking price a bit steep—but if it cost less than $100 it would be a strong recommendation. Using the mouse can feel a bit like walking on ice and the keyboard tilts a lot, but given that there are few competitors that can offer a full keyboard/mouse that fit comfortably in your lap, I’m glad to see the still-fresh idea finally come to market. [Phantom]

How To: Add Wi-Fi To Your Xbox 360 Smartly and Cheaply

The Xbox 360 is the best console you can buy. Except it’s inexplicably missing something the Wii and PS3 have: Wi-Fi. You could buy Microsoft’s $90 dongle. Or you could follow our guide.

The Xbox 360’s lack of Wi-Fi is a totally killer hardware flaw—if you’re not right on top of your router, you’ve either gotta string miles of ethernet cable or buy that pricey ass dongle from Microsoft. Unless you check out one of the cheaper alternatives. Here’s every major way to get your Xbox going on Wi-Fi, sorted by easiest to hardest (but most satisfying).


Donglage
Dongles are, by far, the easiest way to get your Xbox 360 on a wireless network. But they also tend to be the priciest.

Microsoft’s official wireless adapter is $87, which is absolute horseshit for a Wi-Fi antenna attached to a USB cable. But it looks the nicest and is super easy to use—just plug and play. Update: This weekend you can get one for $69.

• The next stop is a third-party wireless adapter, where you’ve got your pick from Linksys ($65), Belkin ($70) and hey, Linksys ($90, but it’s 802.11n). Same deal, plug and play.

• Finally, your cheapest option is from…Microsoft. Turns out, a regular Xbox wireless adapter (which is a supercheap $50), works just fine, with a tiny bit of finagling: Don’t put in its actual install CD. Just plug it in, and set your encryption. It might take two tries to get it to work, but it will. And, it won’t eat up a USB port like the official Xbox 360 one. Spoiler alert: This is our pick for best option, based on its combo of cheapness and convenience, if you can find one.

Share Your Computer’s Connection
Sharing your computer’s connection is the cheapest option—it’s actually the freest one. It’ll work with a laptop or desktop, though a laptop is more truly wireless—the desktop bit is an option if your router’s just a step too far out of the way. Basically, you’re plugging your Xbox into the computer’s ethernet port, and then having it use your computer’s wireless connection to connect to the internet.

Windows
It’s actually harder to reliably share the internet love on Windows with its cousin, the Xbox 360, than it is on a Mac: No method worked reliably for us across multiple Windows computers. But here’s how it should work:

1. Share your computer’s wireless connection. Microsoft actually details the process here, and it’s pretty easy. From the Network and Sharing center, click on the manage network connections option on the left. From there, right click on the connect you wanna share (probably wireless, unless you’re daisy-chaining ’cause your box just won’t reach) and hit properties. Under the sharing tab, just check the box to allow that connection to be shared. Plug your Xbox into the ethernet port.

2. There are a few other ways to proceed at this point, and you’re probably going to have try at least a couple of them to find one that’ll work. You could bridge the two connections (dicey), or you could manually assign the ethernet port an IP address, detailed here (PDF). This Instructable relies on automagicalness to resolve the settings, and I have had that work in the past, though not when I was sorting through methods for this how to.

All in all, expect to do some Googling and troubleshooting if you go the Windows route.

Mac
You’d think this would be easy, ’cause I heard somewhere that Macs just work, and internet sharing on Macs typically ain’t hard, but there is a tiny bit of jujitsu involved here. This method, from Joystiq, is the most reliable one I used.

1. On your Mac, pop open Terminal, and type “ifconfig en0” (number zero, no quotes). A whole bunch of crap will pop up. Find where it says “inet 192.xxx.x.xxx” (it should be 192, anyway). Write that junk down. It will probably be 192.168.2.1, like mine. Also find out your router’s IP address, which is most likely 192.168.1.1 (Linksys) or 192.168.0.1 (D-Link uses this), depending on your manufacturer. If you have Apple’s Airport gear, the router will be at 10.0.1.1.

2. Then plug your Xbox 360 into your Mac, open up Sharing in Preferences. Turn on internet sharing, and share your Airport’s internet connection with ethernet.

3. On the Xbox, flip to your network settings (under system settings), and enter the IP address you got from the terminal freaky deaky earlier but + 1, like 192.168.2.2 to my original 192.168.2.1. Subnet should be 255.255.255.0, and then set your gateway as the ifconfig number, 192.168.2.1. Under DNS (back one screen, then down), put in your router’s actual address for both. Test your Xbox Live connection. Your NAT might suck, but you can get on Xbox Live.

Hack Your Router
This method is the least straightforward, and requires a little bit of work on your part. Essentially, you’re buying a second router (a cheap one, for about $40) and installing custom software on it that turns it into a giant wireless antenna that’s hooked up to your Xbox 360.

There are tons of Linux custom firmwares for routers nowadays, with DD-WRT and Tomato being the most popular. Tomato is a bit more user friendly, but it works with far fewer routers than DD-WRT. DD-WRT works with dozens of different routers (click for the list).

Whichever firmware you go with, the method for putting on your router will vary from device to device, with Buffalo routers being a notorious pain in the ass. Tomato includes instructions with the firmware download—but here are some of the details, and Lifehacker’s complete guide to installing and using Tomato.

DD-WRT is my preferred firmware. Here are the detailed install instructions, but with most Linksys routers, you can just drill into the router settings from the web address (192.168.1.1) and upload the DD-WRT firmware, directly, making it pretty easy. But some routers require different, exceptionally specific install methods. So check out the list before you run out to Best Buy or Circuit City.

My preferred router for this because of its tininess and cheapness (under $40), was the Buffalo G-125, which required you to flash it over TFTP backdoor the DD-WRT firmware onto it during a brief window of time, like Luke dropping those bombs into the Death Star’s vent shaft. It’s a pain in the ass, but everything else about the Buffalo routers make it worth it. Unfortunately, you can’t buy it in the States until the next month or so, so your cheapest bet is is Linksys’s $40ish WRT54G, which unfortunately, has different install methods depending on the revision. The DD-WRT wiki is very good, so you shouldn’t run into problems following it.

Once you get either firmware installed, you’re going to set your hacked router up as a wireless client.

1. You’re going to need to go into the hacked router’s settings. Set the hacked router to client mode.

2. These numbers are going to vary slightly based on your router, but you need to assign it an IP address—if your main router’s IP address is 192.168.0.1, set your hacked router at 192.168.0.2 or 192.168.0.101 (a number that’s in your main router’s DHCP server range). Then make the gateway and DNS the same IP address as your main router.

3. When it reboots you’re gonna have to re-login to whatever IP address your hacked router is. Do that, go back in, and give the hacked router the same SSID (name) as your main router (Linksys, gizrox, whatever you have it named). You can also configure wireless security at this point, though for me, it’s always been kind of flaky, WEP in particular, so you might have to play around to see what works.

4. To test, try to get online using the hacked router as your internet connection, with all of your computer’s IP settings left on automatic. If it works, plug the hacked router into your Xbox. If not, check out the DD-WRT wiki for more halpz.

4. On your Xbox, you can leave everything set to automatic—the hacked router does all the work.

The hacked router method might take the longest, but at least you won’t have a useless dongle when the Xbox 720 comes out, you’ll have a full-featured router, and it’s cheaper than the official dongle. Plus you’ll have a feeling of accomplishment that will carry over to gaming, so you should kill a lot more people in Call of Duty.

Space Invaders retro tabletop game bank

It’s clear that we love piggy banks in Japan. Not only have the Japanese, through sheer force of personal financial responsibility (or fear of going broke), managed to save money even in 20 years of near zero interest rates, but they have fun doing it as well!

This latest offering from Takara Tomy is a nice retro version of the classic tabletop Space Invaders game. Yes, Space Invaders has been huge in the last year due to the game’s 30th anniversary and has been celebrated in a number of items from fashion to alarm clocks.

taito space invaders video game bank 1

The bank is unique in that it’s strikingly similar to the full-scale original in detail, and also has an LCD screen that acts as coin counter. Since it only takes 100 yen coins, each one lights up the screen and adds another invader to the tally. After 80 coins it’s time to empty out the machine and start all over.

taito space invaders video game bank 2

It may not help you manage your finances, but after filling it up once you will have saved nearly twice as much as it cost. Sometimes nothing beats the old coffee can, but that’s not nearly as fun.

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The Dream iPhone Pro

Here’s the new iPhone Pro, something that we don’t expect at MacWorld 2009 at all. However, we do expect something like this to come at a later date. Why? Because it just makes sense.

Click on image above for higher resolution version

This concept started as a Photoshop idea by Giz reader Mat Brady. He wants to get rid of his Nokia N95 but can’t get himself to buy an iPhone for the same reason other people don’t like the current iPhone. Lack of a physical keyboard, lack of a good camera, and not enough storage.

I’ve an iPhone 3G. I love it. In fact, now that I’m in Spain and I can’t use the 3G—because AT&T will nail me for the data roaming at a buck per megabyte—I miss a lot of things, from Maps to Facebook. But even while I can’t live without it, I can see those shortcomings. In fact, I’ve bitched about the camera and the storage quite a few times. Mat made his concept and called it iPhone Elite: an iPhone with 60GB of storage, true 16:9 aspect ratio, slide-out keyboard, one megapixel front camera for iChat, and a high quality camera, with good lenses, optical zoom, and video capability.

That’s good, but we thought it could be a bit better. We fixed the keyboard to make it more rational and compact, losing some unneeded keys. With the space, we added what it’s really needed to make the iPhone a true Nintendo DS competitor: A direction pad and two buttons. For the D-Pad, we didn’t want to reinvent the wheel and just copied Nintendo’s tried-and-proved design.

Is this doable now? Technologically, it is. We’ve seen designs by HTC that get close to this, although they don’t have the software and the final polish that this class of Apple product may have. Would it be more expensive too produce than the current iPhone 3G? Of course. Would we want to pay extra for it? Definitely yes.

Wouldn’t you? [Original design by Mat Brady]

The Only 10 Games Your iPhone Needs

There are loads of games in the App Store for the iPhone/iPod Touch, but if you want to save money and space, which are the true essentials? Here are our 10 must-haves.

While there are enough good games in the App Store to fill up multiple pages on your iPhone or iPod Touch, you don’t need that many, nor do you need to spend that much money. If you focus on filling certain genres with single games and not doubling up on multiples, you can make yourself the ultimate “games page” of apps. Here’s the list.

Touchgrind: This skateboarding game was designed from the ground up for the multi-touch iPhone platform, and it shows. The completely unique control method of using your fingers as legs on a skateboard immediately makes sense and is totally addicting. As you get better, the new skateboards that are unlocked with high scores continually feel just within your grasp. $4.99

Galcon: Galcon is a space-based strategy game that delivers super-short games, which is perfect for the iPhone. Rather than getting dragged into games you won’t finish, Galcon lets you play a bunch of one or two minute games. You can refine your strategy with each game, and every time you lose it’s just too easy to try again. Lite: Free; Pro: $4.99

Fieldrunners: Many call this the best game in the App Store, and it’s tough to argue with them. A tower defense game with a super-high degree of polish, this is the definition of addicting. Basically, you want to set up weapons to stop soldiers for storming your towers. You earn more cash for more weapons for every guy you stop, and you lose health for every guy who gets through. And then you can’t. Stop. Playing it. $4.99

Line Rider iRide: You’ve probably played Line Rider on the internet in some form or another: you draw a bunch of lines, then a little man on a sled gets tossed down your makeshift track. The controls are simple and work great on a touchscreen, and you can play in short bursts, saving your maps for later. It’s intuitive enough that there’s virtually no learning curve, but you can spend countless hours working on your masterpiece of sledding physics. $2.99

Uno: You know Uno, you love Uno. But here’s a version that involves no pesky shuffling. If you’re more of a poker fan you probably went for Texas Hold ‘Em, which is cool, but if you ask me, Uno is a much more fun card game. After all, what fun is poker when you’re gambling with pretend money? $5.99

Rolando: This is a wonderful, cartoonish platformer that uses simple controls that are easy to learn but are used in increasingly complicated and challenging ways as the game progresses. You control a series of little balls—Rolandos—by tilting your iPhone and swiping up to jump. But you can control many of them at once, and there are also obstacles and switches you can manipulate. It’s got a high degree of polish and will suck you in from the first level. $9.99

Crash Bandicoot Nitro Kart 3D: This is our favorite racing game, despite not being fully sold on the accelerometer controls of iPhone racing games. But because of that, you really only need one, and this should be it. Great graphics, good stability and plenty of variety add up to make this the essential iPhone racing game. $5.99

SimCity: This port of SimCity 3000 is stunning. This is no gimped version of SimCity, dumbed down for a touchscreen. It’s the full game, complete with advisers and all the building types you can handle, with intuitive touchscreen controls. Finally, you can build the epic metropolis of your dreams whenever you sit down and have a few minutes to kill. $9.99

Touch Hockey: FS5: Air Hockey on the iPhone is just like regular air hockey, minus the high probability of getting one of your fingers smashed with the puck. Simply put your finger on the mallet and try to score some goals. It’s also fun to play with two people, with each person holding an end of the iPhone. And hey, no quarters required. Lite: Free; Pro: $1.99

Trism: This is essentially a modified version of Bejeweled, and if you know that game then you know why you’d want it on your iPhone. It’s a classic puzzle game, one that makes the transition to the touchscreen beautifully. You’re trying to get three pieces of the same color together to make them disappear, and depending on how you’re holding your iPhone, the resulting tumble of pieces will happen in a different direction. It adds a new level of strategy to the game while retaining what made the original so awesome. $2.99

[A Bonus 11th game, From Brian: I’d like to add Motion X Poker Quest to the list for its amazing use of the accelerometer and in game physics used to roll the dice, as well as beautiful graphics and sounds and addicting game play. ]

Giz Explains: Everything You Wanted to Know About DRM

Condensed explanation: Digital rights management is a corporate pain in the ass that stops you from doing whatever you want with music and movies in the name of fighting piracy. But there’s more to it.

Straight up, you run into DRM pretty much every day. Bought music from three of the four major labels or any TV show from iTunes? Played a game on Steam? Watched a Blu-ray movie? Hello, DRM. If you wanna get technical about it, digital rights management and copy protection are two different, if similar things. Digital rights management is copy protection’s sniveling, more invasive cousin—it isn’t designed simply to make it harder to steal content like straightforward copy protection—you thieving bastard you—but to control exactly how and when you use media. We’re going to cover both here, since they both refer to technologies that restrict what you do with music, movies and more.

There are, approximately, 10,742,489 kinds of DRM and copy protection. Almost every company or format has its own flavor that works in a slightly different way from everyone else—Apple’s iTunes-smothering FairPlay, Blu-ray’s BD+, the restrictions built into every gaming console. They’ve gotten more complex and nuanced over time, too, as content delivery has evolved. For instance, elementary-school DRM would simply keep you from copying or converting or doing other unseemly things to a file, like playing it on a non-sanctioned device. Or you might remember old-school CD keys, before the days of online activation. Today’s DRM, like for movie rentals, music subscriptions or software, constructs more elaborate obstacle courses, nuking videos 24 hours after you press play, or allowing a certain number of copies.

Many of these work in similar ways—files are encrypted with the DRM flavor of the day, and they’re unlocked or decrypted for your use by authorized programs and devices. Think of it like a secret handshake that only certain programs or pieces of hardware know. Often, they’re tied to an account like on Steam or iTunes. This makes it easy for the Man to keep track of and manage what you’re doing with stuff—how many copies you’ve made, how many machines you’ve authorized to play your content, whether your monthly all-you-can-eat music subscription is still active, that kind of thing. DRM-busting cracks look for ways to strip that encryption out to allow free usage, copying or modification of the file.

So, aside from the fact that DRM keeps you copying or modifying content, and playing it on whatever damn player you wanna play it on, and maybe limits your time with a movie to a fleeting window, it doesn’t sound so bad. Okay, it does. But it can get worse—like when DRM breaks. For instance, Valve’s Steam network had a hiccup in 2004 that meant people were locked out of the game they paid to play. Or when Windows cocks up and tells users their OS isn’t genuine. Or Sony’s infamous rootkit CDs. Or when DRM servers are shut down, rendering music useless. The list goes on.

But wait, haven’t you heard that DRM’s dead? Or has a cold? Weeellll, yes and no. Sure, some music stores sell DRM-free MP3s—Amazon is unrivaled in that has ’em from every major label, and iTunes sells DRM-free music from EMI. And CDs have never had ’em, except for that aforementioned BS copy protection from Sony and a few other short-lived misguided attempts. So, it’s sort of going away for pay-to-own music, but it’s still fairly ubiquitous, in all-you-can-eat subscription music, in movies and in software, and it’s not going away anytime soon. The emergence of streaming serious video content, like with Hulu in particular, sort of challenges this on the video front—there’s no DRM, but then again, it’s not as easy to rip a stream for Joe Blow as it is to share a file over Limewire. Harder questions, though, like whether DRM means you ever really own anything anymore, we’ll leave to the lawyers.

Here’s a list an quick blurb on every major kind of DRM you’re likely to run into, and why it sucks (beyond the whole keeping-you-from-sharing-it-with-all-your-friends business):

Audio
FairPlay is Apple’s flavor of DRM that’s baked right into iTunes, iPods, QuickTime and iEverything else—most music from the iTunes store is lojacked with it, with exceptions from EMI and some indie labels. It allows for unlimited copies of music files, but only five computers at a time can be authorized. FairPlay files only play on Apple’s own iThings. Like every other DRM scheme, it’s been cracked.

PlaysForSure (now simply “Certified for Vista,” which is confusing since not all “Certified for Vista” stuff will play PlaysForSure, like Microsoft’s own Zune) was Microsoft’s attempt to get everyone in the portable player industry on the same Windows Media DRM. Even though Microsoft has basically ditched it, it’s successful in that a bunch of services, like Rhapsody and Napster, and players—essentially everyone Apple, from Sony to Toshiba to SanDisk—have used or supported it. It’s fairly generic copy protection that keeps you from sending it to all of your friends, though it works with and enforces subscriptions, with the biggest bitch being that it restricts you to Windows and to PlaysForSure devices. (Read: Not iPods.)

Zune uses a totally different DRM tech than PlaysForSure and is incompatible with it. It allows you to share DRM’d subscription content with up to three other Zunes, though it won’t let you burn songs unless you buy ’em. And if subscriptions die, it nukes your songs. It also manages the Zune’s “squirt” feature, making sure you don’t play beamed songs more than a few times and other annoying restrictions.

PlayReady: Hey lookie, another Microsoft DRM scheme. This one’s different from the similar-sounding PlaysForSure in that while it’s backward compatible with Windows Media DRM, it works with more than just Windows Media audio or video files, like AAC and MPEG, and is meant to cover a broader range of devices, like mobile phones.

Video
FairPlay for video is a lot like the audio version, but adds a couple tricks like nuking rental videos 24 hours after pressing play and presenting a slightly more complicated obstacle course to sync them to portable iThings.

High-Bandwidth Digital Copy Protection prevents video from being copied as it moves across certain digital video interfaces like HDMI, DisplayPort and DVI, which sounds innocent enough, until you try to watch something on a non-HDCP compliant display—and you can’t.

Content Scrambling System (CSS) was DVD’s piddly encryption scheme, long ago busted open like a rotten watermelon.

AACS (Advanced Access Content System) is one layer of copy protection that’s part of the spec of both HD DVD and Blu-ray. It’s way stronger than DVD’s CSS setup with several components involved in the encryption/decryption process, and allows for blocking specific players that have their keys compromised. Plus it can allow specific numbers of DRM’d copies of content, like for portable players. Also cracked, rather explosively.

BD+ is Blu-ray’s secret sauce DRM that’s actually a virtual machine, allowing it to do stuff like make sure the hardware and keys are kosher, and execute code. It’s been cracked, twice actually, but part of the appeal is that it can be updated—the last version is at least three months away from being cracked again, though it totally will be. BD+ was the main reason some studios supported Blu-ray over the AACS-only HD DVD, and you can see why.

Macrovision VHS, yep, that old chestnut: copy protection on VHS tapes that made everything squiggly when you tried to run two VCRs together. Why include it in a digital roundup? Well, besides nostalgia, if you want to convert your original 1986 Star Wars VHS tape to digital, this will make your life difficult—fortunately, a quick Google search turns up ways around it.

TV and cable—there’s a lot going on there to keep you from stealing cable’s goods, so you need a box or a CableCard to take the encrypted feed and make it watchable. The industry didn’t even really get behind the plug-n-play CableCard, either—it was more or less forced on them. There’s also this thing called a broadcast flag that stations like ABC or NBC or HBO can embed in shows at will so you can’t record them.

• Tivo uses DRM from Macrovision that can slap you with all kinds of restrictions, ranging from no copying at all to automatic expiration, limiting copies or managed transfers to PCs, or even not allowing you to view certain football games outside of a designated region. Its TivoToGo, for porting stuff to portable devices, actually uses Windows Media DRM though.

Windows Media DRM, speaking of it, is one of the more popular off-the-shelf DRM kits, used by everyone from Netflix for its streaming service to Amazon’s defunct Unbox downloads (now Video on Demand downloads) to Walmart’s old video store, that’s somewhat flexible it what it allows or doesn’t, depending on the service’s wants—from no copying to nothing but Windows Media compatible devices (i.e., no iPods). It only runs on Windows, naturally.

• Even Adobe Flash has DRM now. If you’ve used the streaming part of Amazon’s Video on Demand service, you’ve run into Flash DRM (which had a lovely Antarctica-sized hole allowing you to rip movie streams until a couple months ago). Two bad things about this DRM, notes the EFF: First, with an unencrypted stream it’s “unlikely that tools to download, edit, or remix them are illegal.” That changes if it’s locked up with DRM. Also, it means you’ll have to use Adobe’s own Flash player to video Flash videos. Lame.

PlayReady is another Microsoft DRM flavor, aimed mostly at portable devices, but it also powers the DRM in Microsoft’s Silverlight, which is what just brought Netflix streaming to Macs.

Software
Windows Genuine Advantage is what makes sure you’re not using a pirated copy of Windows. It phones home occasionally, which can cause bad things if the servers go down. If your copy is legit and it says you’re a pirate, you’re not the first person it’s falsely accused.

Valve’s Steam is one of the most elegant, integrated DRM solutions we’ve seen in a physical-media-be-damned world (except for its two infamous outages). Unlimited copies of games on unlimited computers, but only one can play on an account at a time. It’s fairly seamless, like good DRM should be.

EA’s copy protection system got real famous, real fast thanks to Spore, and nefariously restricts game installations to three computers—in its lifetime, not just at one time like some media DRMs.

• Pretty much every console has varying levels of DRM and copy protection (duh, it’s a closed system), but DRM issues are coming more brightly into focus as we download games from stores, like on the Xbox 360 and Wii, where games are tied to your original system, so you’re screwed if you get a replacement—it’ll take some decent footwork to get your games back, at the very least.

• Not software DRM per se, but Windows Vista has a ton of DRM technologies baked right into it.

Any DRM schemes we missed, feel free to complain about how they make your life more miserable in the comments.

Something you still wanna know? Send any questions about DRM, rights, McDonald’s managers or Taiko Drum Master to tips@gizmodo.com, with “Giz Explains” in the subject line.

Xbox 360 QWERTY Text Input Device in the Flesh [Gadgets]

Renders are OK, but nothing makes a new product seem real like some honest to goodness product shots of the item in question out in the wild. With that in mind, here’s the new Xbox QWERTY Text Input Device (TID) add-on in all its actually existing glory. Our favorite four shots are below; check the source out to see the full series. More »

Xbox Spring Update: Holy Hardware QWERTY and Fresh Firmware [Home Entertainment]

Yo! That’s not fan fiction rendering, that’s straight from Microsoft: An honest to God QWERTY that slaps underneath your Xbox controller. Why do you need that? More »