Suntory Fine Zero. Asahi Strong Off. Kirin Yasumu Hi no 0.00%. Cheap and even cheaper. Low alcohol, non-alcohol. Just when you thought you had a grip on the beer stand at your local supermarket, there’s always a new product right round the corner…
Now liquor store Yamaya has perhaps finally trumped all the others with the latest in their new own brand of “beer”: the Gugutto. In fact, it’s an import from a Korean manufacturer but you can’t argue with the price: just 85 yen (even with the weak dollar, that’s still less than a buck)!
Of course, this isn’t real beer. It’s daisan biiru, an ersatz beer, which, like happoushu, is designed to get around taxes levied against beer by including almost no actual malt. Even more significantly, this new Gugutto is non-alcoholic, which not only surely lowers the costs, but also allows the makers to market it as the beer you drink when you want to drive (much like Kirin Free has been advertised).

The trend towards ever-cheaper beer has resulted in a plethora of daisan beers over the years, with new ones appearing from the main manufacturers every summer (and probably swiftly disappearing again). The marketing for these beers now focuses on their price, their low fat ingredients and (if they are non-alcoholic) how they allow you still to go about your other activities. They have ever more ridiculous names; their packaging is ever more bright and breezy. The days of the chic Kashiwa Sato-designed Kirin lager beer seem to have slipped away like a forgotten hangover.
With a declining consumer base the big drinks manufacturers are fighting for precious space in people’s bellies and on the shelves in the supermarket. A constant stream of new products (with the requisite advertising campaign with a celebrity) is one way to maintain your drinks in the public’s eyes and perhaps achieve sales, even if quality is thrown out the window.
Known to many foreign residents in Japan as a good chain store to pick up import wine, Yamaya is hoping to sell 2.4 million cans of Gugutto Non-Alcohol annually.
