Helpful Tip: Disable Drag Drop Images in Firefox

This article was written on July 07, 2008 by CyberNet.

firefox drag drop.png

In Firefox 3 Mozilla wanted to make dragging and dropping items in the browser a little more intuitive, and so they decided to show a preview of the item your dragging underneath the mouse cursor. On Windows and Macs the image should be translucent like the tab preview shown in the screenshot above, but on Linux the preview image is not transparent.

I’ve been wanting to disable the preview image for quite some time because it’s more difficult when trying to drag and drop things. For example, I frequently bookmark sites by dragging the tab into the bookmark sidebar, and I always drop the tab onto the folder where I want the bookmark to reside. Sometimes the preview image gets in the way, kind of like it does in the screenshot above where it’s a little difficult to see the “drop indicator.”

How can you disable this feature? Miles left a comment on one of our Firefox tips pointing to a setting that will instantly disable the preview image. To do this you need to open the about:config and find the nglayout.enable_drag_images setting. Set the value to false by double-clicking on it, and the changes will be applied without needing to restart the browser. Refer to this article if you need help using about:config.

Once the setting has been changed to false anything that you try to drag and drop will merely show a box outline instead of the preview image, and this makes it a lot easier to see where exactly you’ll be dropping the item.

A million thanks to Miles for digging up this hidden gem!

Copyright © 2009 CyberNet | CyberNet Forum | Learn Firefox

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How to: Install Unofficial Apps on Your iPhone 3G or iPod Touch, Easily and Safely

If you want to install cool apps on your iPhone or iPod Touch for free, easily, breaking Apple-imposed limitations without breaking your warranty or Applethingie, here is the how-to guide for Mac and Windows users.

What is a jailbreak?

Jailbreaking is the process required to install applications in your iPhone or iPod touch. It is a very easy procedure. It’s also safe: There are no risks in this operation*, as you can easily use iTunes to restore your iPhone or iPod touch to the default factory settings. When you do that, the iPhone will be like new.

Why jailbreak your iPhone or iPod touch from Apple’s iron fist?

You should jailbreak your iPhone or iPod if you want to install really cool and useful applications that are not in the iTunes App Store. Many of these apps are a complete must for any iPhone user but are not allowed by Apple in their iTunes App Store.

This is what you can do with a phone that has been jailbroken:

• Use your iPhone as a 3G modem with your laptop.
• Record video using Cycorder.
• Unlock your iPhone installing a simple program, so you can use a pre-paid card when you go out on vacation instead of paying outrageous roaming charges.
• Follow speech turn-by-turn directions in a GPS program.
• Copy and paste (yes, copy and paste).
• Play Nintendo Entertainment System games and other emulated classic cames (like Monkey Island!)

In other words: Do it.

*WARNING* Of course, the usual do this at your own risk and we are not responsible caveats still apply, but this process is really fool proof thanks to Apple’s iTunes factory reset. If you are looking to unlock your iPhone now or in the future, DON’T USE THESE INSTRUCTIONS or you won’t be able to unlock it. You will need a different process, which we will explain in another How To.

Opening the backdoor (Mac Users only)

The first thing you need to do to install free apps in your iPhone or iPod is putting it into DFU mode, or Device Firmware Update mode. Don’t worry, this isn’t anything weird: It’s what your device goes through every time you update the operating system in it. With this step, you will be making the iPhone go into this state.

This is the only long part of this tutorial because—since the 10.5.6 update—Apple has made it difficult to easily connect your Mac to a manually DFU’ed iPhone or iPod. This can be solved by replacing some USB drivers from a previous version of Mac OS X. If you have 10.5.6 installed, follow these instructions:

Step 1. To do this, you need to get yourself a free Apple Developer Connection account. Since you are using iTunes with your device, you are already almost there: Just log in with your Apple ID from here. The form will ask you to answer a couple of questions (just answer whatever you want), and you’ll be done as soon as you click the Accept button.



Step 2. Now you need to download and install the drivers. Go to this page and look for this file:

IOUSBFamily-315.4-log.dmg” for Mac OS X10.5.5 Build 9F33

Once it’s downloaded, disconnect ALL USB peripherals except for your Apple keyboard and Apple mouse and install the package included in the disk image.

Once you restart after the installation, you will be ready to run QuickPwn, the program that will allow you to install the applications.

Important: Once you complete the jailbreaking process, you have to restore the previous USB drivers. Go to to this page and download IOUSBFamily-327.4.0-log.dmg” for Mac OS X 10.5.6 Build 9G55, then repeat the same operation. Once you restart, Mac OS X 10.5.6 will be restored to its original state.

Freeing your iPhone or iPod touch (all users)

Here’s the easiest part: Running QuickPwn. QuickPwn is a program that will easily “jailbreak” your iPhone or iPod touch. Jailbreak, as the name says, just means breaking Apple’s limitations on accessing your device, allowing you put anything you want in it. This means installing any application you want, and not only the ones that Apple allows you to install.

Step 1. Download QuickPwn for Mac OS X or Windows from any of the following links:

Windows
QuickPwn 2.2.5 for Windows: Get the official release via Torrent here.

Unofficial mirrors
http://miphone.ca/iphone-dev/QuickPwn225-2.zip
http://foskarulla.com/QuickPwn-225-2.zip
http://downloads2.touch-mania.com/QuickPwn-225-2.zip
http://www.applei.ph/devteam/QuickPwn-225-2.zip
http://phonenews.com/phones/gsm/apple/QuickPwn225-2.zip
http://rabstalk.bplaced.net/mirrors/QuickPwn-225-2.zip
http://www.evil-crew.de/QuickPwn-225-2.zip
http://daniel14.com/QuickPwn-225-2.zip

Mac OS X
QuickPwn 2.2.5: Get the official release via Torrent here.

Unofficial mirrors
http://iphone-dev.fgv6.net/QuickPwn_2.2.5.dmg
http://iphone.schwarzmetall.cn/QuickPwn_2.2.5.dmg
http://rabstalk.bplaced.net/mirrors/QuickPwn_2.2.5.dmg
http://jmcoon.net/QuickPwn_2.2.5.dmg
http://www.iphone-storage.de/QuickPwn_2.2.5.dmg
http://downloads2.ipod.backshot.eu/QuickPwn_2.2.5.dmg
http://miphone.ca/iphone-dev/QuickPwn_2.2.5.dmg

Step 2. Run QuickPwn and pick the kind of device you have: iPhone, iPhone 3G, or iPod Touch.

Step 3. Follow the instructions on the screen. QuickPwn is completely automated:

• Firstly, it will download all the necessary components from Apple on its own.

• Then the software will build a custom iPhone operating system, which includes Installer and Cydia, the two programs that will allow you to install the iPhone applications outside of the iTunes Apps Store microsystem.

• When QuickPwn asks you to enter your system password, do it. It’s not malicious. It just needs this to work.

• Finally, follow the precisely timed instructions on the screen to put your device on DFU (Device Firmware Update) mode. QuickPwn will do the rest.

If something doesn’t work, don’t worry. Start the process again. If your device gets a bit nutty, restore it to default factory settings using iTunes, and you will be back to square one, no harm done.

Step 4. Be patient as your iPhone restarts. Once it’s done, you are done too. It’s fun time.

Installing the applications

This is where the fun starts. You will notice two new icons in your iPhone or iPod touch’s springboard: One says “Installer” and the other says “Cydia”. These are the two competing systems for installation of software. It doesn’t really matter what you use to install your software. Most applications can be installed from both—there are exceptions, like xGPS, which can only be installed on Cydia—and both allow you to browse and install software from a a variety of sources.

• Browsing the catalogs. Whatever system you choose, installing applications is as easy as going through the available catalogs and picking the application you want.

• Manually adding applications. There will be times in which you will discover applications on the web which are not in the default catalogs in Cydia or Installer. Fortunately, you can add these by just entering the URL provided by the developer in the web page, a process that is referred to as “Adding a source”. Here’s how to do it:

In Cydia

• Click on “Manage.”
• Click on “Sources.”
• Click on “Edit” and then “Add.”
• Enter the address in the dialog field.
• Click on “Add source.”

In Installer

• Click on “Sources.”
• Click on “Edit” and then “Add.”
• Enter the address in the field.
• Click “Done” and get back to sources by clicking on “Sources.”

And that’s it. Now you can install any application you want using either program. Have fun!

How To: Rip Blu-ray Discs

Included digital copies are still the exception rather than the norm in the Blu-ray world. Lame. You’d like to rip those discs for playback elsewhere, right? But there is something you should know first.

And that is this: Ripping Blu-ray discs sucks. Hard. It takes forever, eats up a ton of hard drive space, and for all practical purposes requires software that isn’t free. It’s like trying to rip a DVD in 1999: computers still have a long way to go before this is easy.

But just because it’s hard doesn’t mean it’s impossible, and once your system is set up it’s something you can start before you go to bed and have finished for you in the morning. Here we’ve outlined exactly what you need to rip your 1080p Blu-ray discs (the ones you own, of course) and then convert the video into a more manageable file size for watching on a computer, phone, game console or PMP. Because hey, you own this movie, and you should be able to watch it on whatever device you want.

But you’ll have to earn that right. Let’s start this painful process, shall we?

What’s you’ll need:

• A Windows PC (the Blu-ray ripping process is, at the moment, Mac-unfriendly. I used Windows 7 Beta 64-bit and all the following software is Windows-only)

AnyDVD HD (free fully-functional 21-day trial, $80 to keep) for ripping and decrypting BD discs

RipBot264 (free) for transcoding from AVC (you’ll also need a few codecs to go along with it: .NET Framework 2.0, the avisynth and ffdshow codec packs, and the Haali media splitter)

tsMuxeR (free) for muxing (may not be necessary)

• A Blu-ray drive (I used OWC’s Mercury Pro external)

• A ton of free hard drive space (80GB or so to be safe)

• A decent understanding of how video codecs and containers work (Matt’s Giz Explains has everything you need)

How it Works
AnyDVD HD is a driver that sits in the background, which automatically removes the AACS or BD+ security lock and the region code from any BD disc you load, allowing it to be ripped. The video on most Blu-ray discs is encoded in the MPEG4 AVC format in .m2ts files, so it will need to be transcoded from AVC to something else (like an H.264 MP4 file) for playback on other devices. MPEG4 AVC doesn’t have wide support in all of the best video transcoders we alread love, like Handbrake. This makes finding a free and easy transcoding solution a little tougher, but thankfully RipBot264 seems competent.

You can then either transcode directly from the disc, or go the route I took and rip the disc to your hard drive before running it through the transcoder, which reduces the chance for errors. Give both a shot to find what’s easiest.

Thanks to poster Baldrick’s guide on the Videohelp.com forums and the folks at Doom9—these instructions are based on info found there. Check them out if you get stuck.

Rip Your BD Disc
Again, if you want to try transcoding directly from the disc at the sacrifice of speed or the chance of corruption, you can skip this part (except for step 1) and go to step 4.

1. First up, download and install all the necessary software: AnyDVD HD and RipBot264, which also requires .NET Framework 2.0, the avisynth and ffdshow codec packs, and the Haali media splitter. (All links lead to their Videohelp.com pages, a fantastic resource). These codecs, nicely enough, should give AVC decoding capabilities system wide, so apps like VLC and Windows Media Player should be able to play them without problems.

2. Fire up AnyDVD if it’s not running yet, and from the fox icon in the system tray, choose “Rip Video DVD to Harddisk.” Choose a save point where there’s a healthy 40-50GB free and start it a-rippin’. It’ll probably take around an hour.

3. When it’s done, open up the BDMV/STREAMS directory and try to play the largest .m2ts in VLC or WMP. It should play fine with sound, but if anything’s fishy, you may want to try re-loading RipBot264’s required codecs or trying another AVC codec like CoreCodec’s CoreAVC. This is more paid software, but like AnyDVD, it comes with a free trial period. You need to be able to see and hear an .m2ts file normally during playback before you proceed.

Transcode Your Rip
Now, the fun part.

4. Open up RipBot264. When you try to run RipBot264 the first time, it may say you haven’t installed ffdshow even if you have. If this is the case, open the RipBot264.ini file in Notepad and change “CheckRequiredSoftware=1” to “CheckRequiredSoftware=0” and save it.

5. Click “Add” and select the largest *.m2ts file found in your ripped BD disc’s BDMV/STREAMS folder. RipBot will then analyze it and find the various programs available to encode—you want the one that matches the runtime of your movie, and not one of the special features. RipBot will chew on this file for a long time, and hopefully when it’s done, will present you with this dialog:


6. If RipBot throws an error of any kind here, first make sure you’ve got a bunch of HD breathing room on the volume you’re using.

If errors still come up, you may have to mux your rip. To put that in English: Blu-ray discs have a lot of different files on them representing several different audio and video streams. The process of joining all of these disparate elements into a single stream (usually a .ts file) is called multiplexing, or muxing, and its necessary to do before transcoding. RipBot264 can do this on its own, but it has problems with certain discs. So if any of the above fails, download tsMuxeR, select the biggest .2mts file in the BDMV/STREAM folder in your rip or on your disc, choose the appropriate language, and hit “Start Muxing.” You can then add the resulting .ts file to RipBot264 as the source.


7. Now you can choose how you want to convert the video. RipBot gives you presets for Apple TV, iPod or iPhone, PSP or a high-res file which can then be re-burned to a new BD disc. I chose the iPod/iPhone level.

8. Click “Properties”—here you can fine tune the output size of your video (I chose a nice 640×360 file) and preview it before you begin. MAKE SURE you preview your choices using the “Preview Script” button, because you don’t want to sit through the eternity of transcoding only to find that your dimensions are messed up and everything is in the wrong aspect ratio.

9. If all looks and sounds good, press OK, then “Start” and watch as your system transcodes the massive 1080p AVC stream into a new MP4 file. On my 2.53GHz Macbook Pro, it averages around 20fps, which is actually slower than real time playback. Yuck. So you’ll want to set this and forget it.


10. Wake up the next morning, have your coffee, and check your output file. It should play beautifully in your media player of choice, and look crisp as a kettle chip. My 640×360 encode of the Dark Knight was around an even 1GB in the end, which is not bad at all. Copy it to your device of choice and enjoy.

As you can see, this process is a bitch. It takes an hour to rip the disc, another hour and change for all the software to read your rip and get ready, then an amount of time equal to or even longer than the movie itself to transcode it, depending on your system. So hey, movie studios: how about making digital copies standard features on your BD discs so we don’t have to go through this, mmkay?

Note to Mac Users
While the BD-ripping world is largely a Windows one, you may want to fiddle around with DumpHD, a ripping tool written in Java that supposedly works with OS X. I couldn’t get it to work, but you can read more here to try for yourself.

If you manage to rip your BD disc, you’ll then have to find an AVC converter that works with OS X. Most of these are paid and I haven’t used any, but they exist. If anyone has had luck with a particular tool, let us know.

This method was tested and worked perfectly for me, but if you’re a video jockey and know of any additional software or methods that I didn’t cover that may help, PLEASE tell us about it in the comments. The knowledge dropped in the comments of these Saturday how-tos are a huge help to everyone, so please be constructive and provide links to other tools you’ve had success with. Have a good weekend everyone!

Google Lets You Embed Feeds on Your Site

This article was written on June 01, 2008 by CyberNet.

For a little while now Google has had a wizard that will let you place RSS feeds from around the web on your very own site. How it works is you first choose from one of three different styles: vertical, vertical stacked, or horizontal. Between the three different layouts you should find one that will work well on your site.

If you choose the “vertical stacked” layout you can provide a title that summarizes the feeds you’re about to add. The next thing you’ll want to do is fill out the “expressions” for the feeds you want to include, separating them by commas. They don’t let you manually specify a URL to a feed, and so you’ll have to rely on their automatic search which works fairly well. You can always modify the code that they provide in the end to point to any feed, and even rename them.

Alright, you’re ready to go. Hit the Preview button at the bottom to see what the end result will look like. The “Direct Feed URLs” section should also be filled in with the corresponding feeds that were using the criteria you added in the “Feeds Expression” section. Here’s what my form looked like:

google feed wizard-1.png

If everything looks good just hit the Generate Code button, and you’ll be on you’re way.

I’ve got a live example below of the “vertical stacked” layout that includes feeds from Download Squad, Lifehacker, and (of course) our site. You can obviously click on any of the links to be taken to the article, but I think the rotating preview at the top is pretty cool. The preview will also change as you start to mouse over some of the different feed entries.

Note: WordPress doesn’t play nice with JavaScript inside of posts, and so I’ve placed the code for this example in an iFrame. It should work fine with most sites though.

Copyright © 2009 CyberNet | CyberNet Forum | Learn Firefox

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Barnes Noble Backed How-to Site Launches

This article was written on March 25, 2008 by CyberNet.

Barnes & Noble recently launched a new how-to site that they’re calling Quamut. Their tag line is “the go to how to” and it’s all about providing users with simple instructions on how to do different things in a variety of topics.  Topics that they cover include house and home, hobbies and leisure, money and business, computers and technology, and mind and body. What’s different about Quamut in comparison to other “how-to” sites is that every bit of information is written by an expert and then reviewed by a fact-checker. It’s produced and then published by the editorial team at Barnes & Noble headquarters so that you have some reassurance that the information is correct.

Each “how-to” article is called a Quamut and they are consistently adding new ones. To make money, topics are formatted into a printable chart which users can purchase and then print for easy access. Charts vary in length, but it appears that they all cost $2.95. If someone is looking to just read the information online, they can do that too without needing to purchase the chart because all information is also formatted in HTML and available on the site. Selling Quamut’s isn’t their only method to make money, they also use Google AdSense and provide links to Barnes & Noble where users can purchase different books relating to the topic they were looking at.

quamut

One perk to the service is that each day they offer a free Quamut for users to download.  Today’s free Quamut is Gardening Basics which will tell you anything you ever wanted to know about gardening in six pages. You can also just view the online version for Gardening Basics here. Another nice feature is that they have a community Wiki where users can share their knowledge with others on various topics.

Overall the site looks very promising. I like the route they’re taking to monetize the site by offering all of the content for free, viewable only online, or making it available for purchase in which case the user can print and view it offline. As Mashable points out, it looks as though finally we may be headed in the right direction as far as online publishing goes.

Go ahead and check it out, and then let us know what you think!

Copyright © 2009 CyberNet | CyberNet Forum | Learn Firefox

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How To: Hackintosh a Dell Mini 9 Into the Ultimate OS X Netbook

I am typing this on a 9-inch, 3G-equipped, almost-pocketable computer, running the best consumer OS money can currently buy. It costs around $400. Do you want one too? Here’s how to get yours.

There are a lot of netbooks on which you can install and run OS X, but if you’re mindful of the handy comparison chart those lads at Boing Boing Gadgets have compiled, you’ll know that the Mini 9 is about as ideal a platform as you’ll find for a Hackintosh ultraportable: Everything from wi-fi, sound and the function keys down to the optional integrated mobile broadband card and the SD card reader are supported and work as they should. No hardware compromises at all. It’s awesome.

Generally, there are two ways to approach a Hackintosh install: Using a “slipstreamed” OS X installer image that’s been modified to install on non-Apple hardware, or using a $129 factory-fresh retail OS X install disk in tandem with a special bootloader that does the necessary tweaking to let the install happen. The former can be easy enough, but it’s pretty much illegal since it contains a pirated OS X install disk, and on top of that you’ll run into all kinds of problems should you ever want to upgrade your OS or software via Software Update.

By using a retail OS X disk, you stay mostly out of pirate waters, and ensure that once everything’s up and running, you’ll be as close as is possible to having an actual Mac. Here we’re doing that, using a method referred to as the “Type11” install, cooked up by a fellow of the same handle and his colleagues over on the MyDellMini forums, a fantastic resource.

Even though we’re using a standard retail-purchased copy of OS X, the disclaimer: Apple does not like Hackintoshing. It violates the OS X EULA, and probably won’t make the Dell folks too happy either, should you need to return your hacked Mini 9 for service. So, as always, proceed at your own risk.

On a personal note let me tell you, it’s worth it. The Mini 9 is a beautiful OS X machine. So let’s get started.

What You’ll Need

Dell Mini 9 With 16GB SSD or higher (8GB SSDs will techincally work, but it will take some fiddling not covered by this guide)

• Retail copy of OS X 10.5.x (NOT an OEM copy that comes with a new Mac)

• A USB flash drive 8GB or higher

• An external USB DVD drive

• The “Type11” Bootloader: DellMiniBoot123v8.01.iso.zip (download link in this forum post)

• Blank CD to burn bootloader image (I actually used version 8.0 of Type11 on my CD-if your boot process with 8.01 is different than what’s spelled out in this guide, you can download 8.0 here. Both should work.)

• Windows PC for preparing the flash drive (if DVD drive works fine, this is optional)

Preparing Your Boot Loader

The easiest way to use both the Type11 bootloader (burned to a bootable CD) and your OS X install DVD is via the external USB DVD drive. The catch is, some drives are mysteriously not compatible with installing OS X on the Mini 9. Mine was one of those drives—the bootloader CD would work without a hitch, but it would choke on the OS X install disk every time. Thankfully, it’s also possible to run both the bootloader and the OS X install disk off of a USB flash drive. I’m going to spell out my method here, which actually included both approaches, but try an external DVD drive first, and if yours is compatible, your life will be a little easier than mine was. On the other hand, if you don’t have an external drive, you can give the USB flash drive method a shot.

The general approach here it to boot from the Type11 bootloader, which allows you install, run and update OS X; once you’re up to 10.5.6, you can install a suite of Mini 9 specific drivers so you don’t have to rely on the bootloader anymore.

1. Unzip the DellMiniBoot123v8.01.iso and burn it to a CD with Disk Utility or a similar Windows tool (don’t just drag the ISO file to a disk). Pop that disk into your external DVD drive, connect it to your Mini 9 and power it on, then press 0 (zero) at startup to bring up the list of bootable devices.

2. Choose CD/DVD from the list, which will bring you into the bootloader. Choose the first option, “Install Retail OS X 10.5” which will bring you to a command prompt that says “boot:”

3. Take out the bootloader disk and pop in your retail OS X install DVD, keeping the PC running. (You can power your external drive off and then on again to make sure everything’s kosher.) Press Escape at the boot: prompt to bring up the drive options. The Type11 installer uses hex codes to choose which device you’re booting from, which you can assign at any time from the boot prompt by pressing escape: enter “9f” for the external DVD drive or “80” for the primary internal SSD. Here we’re booting from the external CD drive, so press escape, Type “9f” then press enter.

4. At this point, the OS X installer will either load or it won’t. If it does, great. You can skip to step 12. If not, you’ll need to do what I did, and transfer everything to a USB flash drive to install that way.

Preparing a USB Stick Instead Of/In Addition To a Boot CD

This is based on a tutorial found on the MyDellMini forums by “bmaltais”—bigup to him.

5. Open up Disk Utility and partition your USB drive (8GB or larger) into two partitions: one 200MB FAT32 (MS-DOS) partition named “TYPE11” and one with the remainder of the free space formated as Mac OS X Extended (Journaled) called OSXDVD.

6. Move to a Windows PC (I know, I know), plug in your USB stick and download Syslinux-this is a utility that will make the FAT32 partition of your USB stick bootable. With the Windows Command Prompt, cd over to the “win32” subdirectory of the Syslinux directory you downloaded and type the following, where “F:” is the drive letter for the TYPE11 partition on your USB stick:

syslinux -ma F:

You won’t get any confirmation, but if you receive no error messages, you’re good: This copies a single file named ldlinux.sys (invisible in Windows) to the USB drive to make it bootable. Pop it out and go back to your Mac if that’s what you’re using.

7. Now, unzip the Type11 ISO (instead of burning it to a disk) and copy the whole directory structure to the TYPE11 partition. Do NOT overwrite the “ldlinux.sys” when it asks—you want to keep the one you copied over with Syslinux.

8. To fill up the other partition, insert your OS X install DVD and, in Disk Utility, select it and choose “New Image.” Save it to the OSXDVD partition of your USB drive as “live.dmg” with “compressed” as the type and encryption set to “none.” This’ll take about a half hour to rip the DVD to an image, which should weigh in at around 6.4 GB give or take.

9. After that’s done, go to Terminal and copy your mach kernel file to the OSXDVD partition by typing this:

sudo cp /mach_kernel /Volumes/OSXDVD

10. And finally, download this zip file, uncompress it and copy the System and Library folders inside to your OSXDVD partition. This is the last bit of magic needed to make your Mini 9 think it’s working with an actual OS X install DVD.

11. On your Mini 9, restart it and enter the BIOS setup by pressing “2”—and make sure legacy support for USB devices is enabled. Now, reboot and select the boot options list by tapping 0 at startup and choose USB Storage. Select the OSXDVD partition to boot from and press Enter. This should load up the familiar Apple and the OS X installer window.

Install OS X

While you’re installing and doing initial configuration of OS X, everything will be all warped to 800×600 rather than your Mini’s native 1024×600 res. Don’t worry, this will be fixed soon enough.

12. The first thing you need to do is format your SSD. Bring up Disk Utility in the installer select it at the highest level possible. Go to “Partition” and make it a single Mac OS X Extended (Journaled) partition. Before hitting Apply, go to Options and select GUID Partition Table. Then hit apply.

13. Now, go back to the Installer, and install OS X to the SSD you just partitioned. You will definitely want to choose to customize your install to save SSD space—I would ditch all the printer drivers and language packs you don’t need to save space. If you install with the default options though, don’t worry—all can be removed later. The install will take about an hour, so go fix yourself a drink. You may come back to an Install Error message at the very end (I didn’t), but if you do, don’t worry. It’s normal.

14. Once OS X is installed, it’s still not ready for use right off the drive. On your first reboot, make sure you boot back into the Type11 bootloader on your CD or flash drive, as your new OS X partition is still not bootable without it.

This is, however, where a bit of weirdness set in for me. The Type11 partition on my USB disk would NOT recognize my fresh OS X install on the Mini 9 SSD. It just would not boot it. The Type11 boot CD I had made (with version 8.0 of Type11) DID recognize it, however, and booted it just fine. So bear that in mind here—even if you weren’t using an external drive before, you still might need one.

15. So now you boot back into the Type11 CD and choose option 1 (“Install Retail OS X 10.5”) again, even though you’re not installing. This takes you back to the boot prompt. This time, hit Escape, and type the code “80” for your SSD (as opposed to “9f” for the external DVD). Press enter, and then back at the “boot:” prompt, type “-f” with no quotes before hitting enter again to boot. This will load all of OS X’s kernel extensions (.kexts) to make sure wi-fi and everything works. OS X should boot, and you’ll go through the typical OS X setup process. Notice the webcam and—hopefully—networking are already working!

ONE MORE NOTE: If networking isn’t working, don’t panic. On my first boot from the SSD, wi-fi didn’t work. But after a restart and another boot from the bootloader CD (with the “-f” option) it worked fine. Throughout this process, if anything is screwy, before you panic and start Googling new strategems, simply re-do the last step that failed—it’s often that easy.

Free Up Space and Update OS X to 10.5.6

Now that you’ve booted from the fresh install on the SSD, it’s time to update to 10.5.6 (if necessary). After a default install, I only had a gig and change left on my 16GB SSD, so I had to dump some programs I wouldn’t need as well as all the printer drivers found at /Library/Printers. There is an app called Monolingual which can also help clear some space by removing unwanted language files and stripping out all legacy PPC code from your universal binaries.

16. Once you’ve cleared up enough space (if necessary, you’ll need around 6GB), go to Software Update and install the 10.5.6 update. This will take a long-ass time too (the SSD, strangely enough, seems to actually be slower on tasks that take tons of reads and writes).

17. After it’s done, restart, and boot into the Type11 bootloader one last time. This time you don’t have to use the “-f” flag. Once you’re booted, go to the DellMini9Utils folder on your Type11 CD or flash drive and run the DellEFI installer. This will load all of the Mini 9 .kexts and drivers as well as a special bootloader to boot your SSD install. Choose the easy install option and just let it do its magic.

18. After it’s done, you’ll be asked to reboot one final time. You won’t need to boot from the Type11 CD this time; you should boot straight off of your SSD like normal, and enter upon your fresh new OS X desktop, now in gloriously correct 1024×600 resolution. Awesome!

Configs, Tweaks and Fun Stuff

You’ll notice right away that OS X runs fantastically on the Mini 9. I was really stunned, and you probably will be too. Here are some things to make it even better:

• Follow this tutorial to get your mobile broadband working if your Mini 9 has it. Network preferences should recognize it out of the box.

• If you’re especially OCD, you can run the “AboutThisMac.pkg” inside the Type11 utilities folder to change “Unknown Processor” in the About This Mac window to the correct 1.6GHz Atom designation.

This is a neat trick for fooling pesky oversized windows into shrinking themselves for your small screen.

• I haven’t had luck with this, but you can apparently enable some multitouch scrolling action on the Dell’s Synaptics touchpad by following these instructions.

Conclusion

So congrats, now you have a 100% functional OS X netbook. I’ve been using mine for a few days now, and it’s quite the machine for basic netbook activities-surfing, IM, email. It connects to my shared AirPort disk and streams my video collection (even high-def files) perfectly, and also backs up wirelessly over Time Machine. The 9-inch screen will make even your lower-res full-screen video look fantastic—YouTube or Hulu, QuickTime trailers and video rips are a pleasure to watch. Watching an episode of something in bed without lugging my 15-incher in with me is really nice.

In addition, I think I may have found the perfect toilet computer. No one wants to fight Windows on the throne. And of course it’s amazing for traveling. I’m about to take a trip to Cairo, and I’ll be bringing this little guy without a doubt.

Resources

Many thanks to everyone at the following sites:

DellMyMini Forums: Mac OS X

DellMyMini Forums: OS X: FAQs and How Tos

OSX86 Wiki Guide

So that’s about it! Please add in your experiences in the comments-your feedback is a huge benefit to our Saturday guides. Good luck with your own Hackintoshing, and have a great weekend!

Download Windows XP SP3 via Windows Update

This article was written on November 26, 2007 by CyberNet.

Windows XP SP3 It’s that time again! Yep, time for more Microsoft leaks. This time around a “hack” has been exposed that will let existing Windows XP users download and install a Release Candidate of Service Pack 3 (SP3) via Windows Update. If this sounds familiar to you it’s probably because a similar hack was already leaked back in October for Vista SP1.

Early reports are estimating that XP SP3 has roughly a 10% performance increase over XP SP2, which is a rather large difference. That’s definitely good news for XP users, and might end up pushing more users to make the upgrade

So what do you have to do? Not much actually. Just copy some text into Notepad, save and run the file, and then check for updates in XP. Running the file will modify the registry a bit, but it won’t screw up your system. I did get around to trying it out, and it worked flawlessly:

  1. Copy and paste the following code into Notepad:
    @echo off
    reg delete HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\WindowsUpdate\XPSP3 /f 2> NUL
    reg add HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\WindowsUpdate\XPSP3 /v RCPreview /t REG_SZ /d 1c667073-b87f-4f52-a479-98c85711d869 /f
    echo XPSP3 registry key has been set. Please check for updates in Windows Update.
    pause
  2. Save the file as XPSP3.cmd (it’s important to include the extension).
  3. Run the file that you saved in Step 2 by double-clicking on it. Restart your computer and check for new Windows Updates.
  4. Windows XP SP3 should be found, and it is a 337MB download so give it some time to download and apply the updates. When all is said and done your version of Windows XP should be: Windows XP Build 2600.xpsp.071030-1537: Service Pack 3, v.3244

Enjoy the better performance and stability! You can hold off until next year if you want to download XP SP3 when it is officially released.

[via Softpedia & Computer World]
Thanks for the tip Storytellerofsci-fi!

Copyright © 2009 CyberNet | CyberNet Forum | Learn Firefox

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CyberNotes: Configure Customize The Toolbars in Opera

This article was written on August 08, 2007 by CyberNet.

CyberNotes
Web Browser Wednesday

Opera LogoOpera is a free web browser that is available for the Windows, Linux, and Mac operating systems. One of the things that Opera is best known for is being highly customizable out-of-the-box, but I think that some people overlook how customizable the toolbars are.

I’ve seen quite a few people using Opera before, and almost none of them move thye toolbars or buttons around. I’m not sure if that’s because they don’t know how, or whether they love the default layout that much. On the other hand, almost all Firefox installations that I ever see have customized toolbars, and a good example of that can be seen at Lifehacker’s “Show Us Your Firefox“.

I thought about making this your typical tutorial that walks you through all of the different steps, but it would be extremely long and hard to explain. For that reason I’ve assembled a video demonstration that starts with a fresh installation of Opera, and shows you how I go about positioning things.

–Customize the Toolbars–

In the video demonstration I show you how to customize the look and position of any toolbar in Opera. Even the bar with the tabs and the sidebar are included in this category, and changing their location is as simple as right-clicking on them and choosing the Customize option. Then there is a drop-down menu next to a label called “Placement,” and that is what you’ll need to adjust to move toolbars around Opera.

–Tab Bar–

One of my favorite things in Opera is that you can move the tab bar to the bottom of the browser, or to one of the sides. Seeing that I have a widescreen monitor, I prefer to utilize the extra screen width by placing my tabs on the right-side, which is also nice because your tabs don’t get so small that they are unreadable.

In the video I’ll also show you how to move the tab bar below the address bar without any hacks or inconvenient tricks. By default the tab bar is above the address bar with Opera, which is something Firefox and Internet Explorer users might have a hard time getting used to.

–Sidebar–

I like to view myself as a minimalist when it comes to icons and clutter, but there are some things that I do simply because it makes me more productive, and the sidebar is one of those things. It takes up way too much room out-of-the-box, and I was anxious to find a way to condense it down. The reason why this is important to me is that I have hundreds of bookmarks that I frequently access, so to allow me to be as productive as possible, I need to leave the bookmarks sidebar open at all times. As you’ll see in the video, there is a surprising amount of customization options that pertain to the sidebar.

–Video–

Are you ready for the video? I spent a lot of time making sure that, despite the low-resolution, you can still clearly see everything that I’m doing. So without further ado…

–Overview–

Opera is about as powerful as you want it to be. Once you get diggin’ under the hood you’ll find all kinds of surprises that you didn’t know existed, and that’s one of the joys with using it as your browser. Play around, mess with the options, and don’t be afraid to screw something up…that’s my motto! :)

Opera Homepage

Copyright © 2009 CyberNet | CyberNet Forum | Learn Firefox

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How To: Tether the iPhone or G1 To Your Laptop For Free 3G Broadband

If you read Gizmodo, the odds are good you’re carrying one of these two pieces-they’re among our favorite 3G smartphones right now. Today let’s learn how to tether ’em up to your laptop.

Note: while data tethering is possible on each phone without any additional tethering plan, you’ll want to be careful that you’re not accidentally seeding a bunch of torrents or something when you’re connected via your cellphone. While we’re pretty sure you’ll be OK doing standard surfing, we can’t guarantee you won’t get slapped with some charge, somehow.

So let’s get started.

What You’ll Need
• For G1: USB cable, Tetherbot App, Android SDK, Firefox
• For iPhone: iPhoneModem app, Jailbroken phone

G1 Tether
This guide is based on the instructions and Android app written by Graham Stewart. Many huzzahs to Graham for figuring out this easy tether setup. This one, however, is a SOCKS proxy instead of a true modem tether, so it’s limited to Firefox browsing-you won’t be able to use any other apps unless you can configure them to connect via a proxy yourself. We’ve tested with Firefox though, and it works great.

1. Go here on your G1’s browser and install the Tetherbot app. If unknown sources are not enabled on your phone (under Settings -> Applications -> Unknown Sources) do that first.

2. Turn on USB Debugging under Settings -> Applications -> Development and connect your phone via USB.

3. Get your Android SDK set up. If you’re on Windows, you’ll need to download and install a driver.

4. On your phone, fire up the Tetherbot app and tap the “Start Socks” button.

5. Now, the SDK incantation. In a terminal window on Mac or a run window on Windows, navigate to the “tools” folder within your SDK directory and then type the following:

Mac:

./adb forward tcp:1080 tcp:1080

Windows:

adb forward tcp:1080 tcp:1080

6. Now, in Firefox, go to Options -> Advanced -> Network, and click to configure how Firefox connects to the Internet. In the window that pops up, choose “Manual proxy configuration” and clear out everything that might be there. Under SOCKS host, type “localhost” and change the port to 1080. Hit OK, and you should be in business. Easy right?

iPhone Tether
For this, you’ll need to jailbreak your phone. All you need to know to do that can be found in this post on the iPhone Dev Blog. If you’re running OS X, I STRONGLY recomment using Pwnage Tool instead of QuickPwn to manually create a jailbroken software image and install it via iTunes-I have yet to get QuickPwn to work with my phone, and I have no idea why.

One caveat: there are two iPhoneModem apps-one, found at iPhoneModem.de is free, and comes with a utility that makes tethering on a Mac easy. That’s the tutorial we’re following here. They claim it’s possible to use on Windows, but there is no companion app and, unfortunately, no Windows instructions.

The other iPhoneModem is nagware ($10 to get rid of the nags), and does include a Windows config app, which we have not tested. If you’re running windows, try that one, and let us know how it goes in the comments. There is also another method using an app called 3proxy that requires lots of manual configuration, but that one may also be worth a try. Update: Commenters are also recommending PDANet for Windows tethering, which is in Cydia as well.

1. Once you’re jailbroken, open up Cydia and install the package called “iPhone Modem zsrelay” – you can find it by searching “modem.” Also install OpenSSH – find it by searching “SSH.” BossPrefs is also recommended, so you can make sure SSH is running.

2. Download the iPhoneModem.de helper app and run it, and go to “Settings…” under the little iPhone icon that just appeared in the status bar.

3. Fill in the following fields:

IP-Address of Mac: Leave the default value (192.168.100.1)
Password of Mac: Your admin password
WLAN Name: The name of the ad-hoc network that will be created – your choice
WLAN Password: It must be 13 characters-your choice as long as it’s 13
SOCKS Port: Leave default (9999)
iPhone root Password: alpine (as long as you’re running 2.x firmware)
iPhone Mac Address: Found under Settings – General – About – make sure you use the wi-fi MAC address.

4. Once your config is saved, go to “start connection” and follow the prompts. Your Mac will create an ad-hoc network, which you will then join with your iPhone (make sure you get an IP address on your iPhone before continuing). Everything should go smoothly, and voila, you’re tethered!

Hope you enjoyed our how-to. For more on iPhone jailbreak apps, see yesterday’s essentials list, and more how-to guides here. Enjoy the weekend!

How To: Hack Android For Multitouch Web Browsing on the T-Mobile G1

Android’s new 1.1 update doesn’t include multitouch because Google is scared of Apple. We are not, however, and nor should you be-follow our guide to get iPhone-like multitouch browsing on your G1 right now.

As teased yesterday, this update will also give you all the new Android 1.1 firmware features, so if you haven’t received your over-the-air update from T-Mobile yet, wait no more and follow our guide. And on top of the added multitouch features, the hacked ROM you’re going to install will also include handy root access to your G1 for further hacking.

Many thanks in particular to the folks at the xda-developers forum, the #1 hangout for HTC phone tweakers on the web.

What You’ll Need:
• Your G1
• USB cord
JFv1.41_RC33.zip-an Android RC33 ROM With Multitouch assembled by a nice chap that goes by the name of JesusFreke.
• An old RC29 ROM (with root access bug)
• An Android recovery image
• A micro-SD card reader (maybe, if you mess things up)
• The Android SDK (for installing more multitouch demos)

Let’s get started:

Downgrade Your Android Software to Gain Root Access
Even though Android is open source, access to the root user is disabled by default, so you still have to work to get root access. To do that you have to exploit a well publicized bug in an earlier Android build that easily allows you to slip into root access easily.

Note: In doing this, you will lose everything you have saved to your phone. Your synced Google Account info will of course stay put, but you’ll lose your installed apps, text messages, and anything you have on your SD card. Searching “backup” in the Android Market will lead you to apps that can backup your SMS messages and other files.

1. Your phone is likely running either the RC30 (1.0) or the new RC33 (1.1) version of the Android software (you can check under Settings -> About phone -> Build number). RC29 is the one with the bug, so you’ll need to download that file here (grab this one if you’re in the UK, and perhaps seek out a UK-specific guide, as we’re talking North American language here and I don’t want you to hurt your phone).

2. Reformat your phone’s SD card to the FAT32 format.

3. Rename the downloaded file to exactly this: DREAIMG.NBH in all caps for the extension and the filename. It matters. It will still show up with a lowercase extension in the bootloader, but that’s OK, as long as the file you dropped on your SD card was named properly, you won’t get a FAIL.

4. Drop the downloaded and renamed RC29 file onto your SD card via USB, power your phone off, and then power it back on while holding down the camera button. This will bring you into the bootloader. Press the power button to start the update, which will wipe your phone and install the old software.

5. When it’s done you should get a declaration of success. After that, hit the trackball button (known as the “action button” in the darker recesses of the G1’s bootloader) and then press Call, Menu and End simultaneously to reboot into your downgraded G1. You’ll see that you’re starting from scratch.

6. Sign in to your Google account and then grab the “Telnet” app from the market. You’ll need this to exploit your newly gained root access.

Update Your G1 With a Multitouch-Enabled ROM
Now that you have not only the permission but the impetus to do naughty things with root access, it’s time to install the updated Android files.

These are assembled by a nice chap that goes by the name of JesusFreke on various phone-hacking forums. He’s the one, primarily, who made all this multi-touching on the G1 possible.

1. Grab Le Freke’s RC33 v1.41 ROM (the one with multitouch goodness baked in) and rename it from “JFv1.41_RC33.zip” to “update.zip”-all lowercase-and copy it to your SD card.

2. Also grab this tweaked “recovery.img” file and also copy it to your SD card. Eject your SD card from your desktop and unplug the USB cable when you’re done.

3. Now that you’re in the exploit-y RC29 version, your phone will start responding to various Linux commands you type on the keyboard no matter what you happen to be doing in Android at the time. Fun! What you need to type to get root access is:

UPDATE:Due to some HTML weirdness, this command didn’t show up properly before. What you have to do here is press the enter key twice, then type “telnetd” (no quotes) and then hit enter once more. Sorry for the confusion:

[enter] [enter] telnetd [enter]

You may find yourself in some odd place in the OS, but it doesn’t matter-if done correctly, a telnet server should be running in the background on your phone.

4. Open up the Telnet app you downloaded from the Market, type in “localhost” in the box if it’s not there already, and tap “Connect to server.” You’ll see some weird ASCII characters, but all should be well. To test, type this in at the prompt (make sure you’ve ejected your SD card from your computer and detached the USB cable):

ls /sdcard

You should see the names of the files you copied (if you don’t, try step 3 and 4 again).

5. Now it’s time for some more command line magic. You’ll need to type four more commands to mount the file system in a writeable state, change to the system directory, copy the recovery.img file from your SD card to your phone’s /system directory, and flash the recovery image, in that order:

mount -o remount,rw /dev/block/mtdblock3 /system

cd /system

cat /sdcard/recovery.img > recovery.img

flash_image recovery recovery.img

You won’t get any response from any of these commands other than a slight pause before the next prompt appears-that means you’ve done everything correctly. If you get any error messages, check for typos and try again.

6. Power down your phone, then power it back on again. One power cycle is required to complete the magic.

7. Power down your phone AGAIN. And now, while off, start it up by holding the Home button along with Power; your phone will enter into recovery mode, which normally shows a caution icon with a phone, but will in this case stream a bunch of Linux code on the screen. Wait for that to calm down, and you will reach the ROM flashing screen of Mr. Freke’s design. If all looks good, press Alt+S to flash your ROM, then press Home+Back when prompted to restart into your multitouch-enabled G1.

8. Open up the browser, and try the ol’ pinch-to-zoom gesture. Hey, what’s that? Zooming! It’s not lighting fast at the moment, but I’d say it still beats pressing plus and minus buttons to zoom.

While Mr. JesusFreke is responsible for packaging this up for consumption, we can thank Mr. Luke Hutchison for the actual multitouch coding. His blog sheds more insight on the state of the multitouch implementation you’re now playing with, and illustrates how it will soon improve. But let’s play some more.

Download More Multitouch-Enabled Apps
In the flashed ROM you just installed, only the WebKit browser has been tweaked to accept multitouch input. But your fun shan’t stop there. Hutchison has provided a few more demo apps-including a simple Google Maps app, photo browser and fun Multitouch visualizer. You can download them all in .apk package format from his site.

To install an APK package via the Android SDK, make sure you’ve enabled “Unknown sources” under Settings -> Applications, then follow these instructions for Windows or, for Mac:

1. Open the Terminal and navigate to the directory where you unzipped the Android SDK (you can auto-fill the Unix path to any file or directory in Finder by dragging it to the cursor point in Terminal):

cd

2. Then, with your phone plugged in via USB, type:

./tools/adb install

3. After the “Success” message, voila, the app is now on your phone.

And that’s about it! Enjoy multitouch browsing, and for more Android hacking on the G1, check out these sites:

References
AndroidWiki
XDA Developers Wiki
XDA Developers Forum